There's not much info on it. All I can give is things to check. There's a STRONG WARNING to don't remove the sub throttle valve actuator. On a couple of postings I've found the people had used a pressure washer to wash their bikes.

Kawasaki 650 Error Code 62
Error code 62 on Kawasaki 650-series motorcycles (such as the Ninja 650, Z650, or Vulcan S 650) typically indicates a malfunction with the sub-throttle valve actuator (also called the secondary throttle actuator or STVA). This component is part of the fuel injection system and controls the sub-throttle valves to optimize airflow at low RPMs for smoother performance and emissions control. When it fails, the ECU (engine control unit) detects an out-of-range signal, open circuit, or short in the wiring, and it cuts power to the actuator to prevent damage.Common Symptoms

• Check engine light (FI light) illuminated, often flashing.
• Unusual buzzing, clicking, or whining noise from the throttle body area (especially on startup or shutdown) as the actuator tries to move the valves.
• Rough idling, hesitation, or reduced power below 3,000–4,000 RPM (the bike may feel "doggy" at low speeds but run normally at higher revs).
• High idle RPM (e.g., stuck around 4,000 RPM) or failure to return to normal idle.
• In some cases, the bike may still start and run, but performance is compromised.

This code is common on models from 2012 onward, especially after battery work, washing the bike, or if it's been sitting unused.Possible CausesBased on service manuals and owner reports:

1. Loose or corroded battery connections: A frequent trigger, especially after disconnecting/reconnecting the battery or using a charger/jumper. Voltage spikes or poor grounds can confuse the ECU.
2. Wiring issues: Open/short circuits, frayed wires, or poor connections to the sub-throttle actuator (located under the airbox/throttle body).
3. Faulty actuator motor or servo: The motor itself may be worn, seized, or out of calibration (e.g., weak spring or binding valves).
4. Throttle position sensor (TPS) problems: Sometimes related, especially if water ingress from washing the bike affects sensors.
5. ECU glitch: Temporary from low battery voltage, aftermarket mods (e.g., exhaust or Power Commander), or environmental factors like cold weather.
6. Less common: Throttle body sync issues or full throttle body failure.

How to Diagnose and FixSafety note: Always work with the battery disconnected to avoid shorts. Consult your model's service manual (available online via Kawasaki's site or forums) for wiring diagrams. If you're not comfortable with electrical work, take it to a dealer.

Step	Action	Tools Needed	Expected Outcome
1. Clear the code (reset ECU)	Turn key off. Disconnect negative battery cable for 10–30 minutes (or ground the positive terminal to the frame). Reconnect, start the bike, and ride 5–10 miles. Check code again (hold both buttons on dash until odometer shows codes).	Wrench/screwdriver	Code clears if it was a glitch (e.g., from battery issues). Common fix for 40–50% of cases.
2. Inspect battery & connections	Check battery voltage (should be 12.6V+ off, 13.5V+ running). Clean/tighten terminals. Test for corrosion.	Multimeter, wire brush	Resolves if voltage was low (<12V) or connections loose.
3. Check actuator wiring	Locate sub-throttle actuator (behind throttle bodies, under tank/airbox). Inspect connectors for damage, pins for corrosion, and wires for chafing. Measure resistance (should be ~1–5 ohms per manual; infinite = open circuit).	Multimeter, service manual	Fixes wiring shorts/opens without part replacement.
4. Test actuator function	With key on (engine off), listen for actuator movement during self-check (buzzing for 2–3 seconds). Manually cycle valves if accessible.	None	Noisy/stuck = bad actuator (~$100–200 to replace).
5. Sync throttle bodies & check TPS	Use a manometer to sync mains/subs. Adjust TPS voltage (0.5–1.0V at closed throttle).	Carb sync tool, multimeter	Addresses related sensor drift.
6. Replace parts if needed	Sub-throttle actuator ($150–250 OEM). Full throttle body assembly if multiple issues ($500+).	Basic tools	Last resort; test after install.

Tips

• Aftermarket mods: If you have a full exhaust or fuel controller, ensure they're tuned properly—mismatched air/fuel can stress the system.
• Dealer cost: Diagnostics run $100–200; fixes $200–600 depending on parts.
• Prevention: Use a battery tender for storage, avoid high-amp chargers directly on the bike, and cover electricals when washing.
• If the code persists with other symptoms (e.g., no-start), scan for additional codes like 11 (main TPS) or 21 (crank sensor).

 

Huge thanks mate. Will have a look.

 

Welcome from Pennsylvania and thanks for joining us!! I hope you get the problem resolved and come back to share your solution