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Discussion Starter #1
Question for the experts: Can a 2006/2007 ECU (p/n: 21175-0059) be swapped into my 2008 V2KCLT (p/n: 21175-0160)? I can't find any references saying yes or no or whether Ma Kaw just changed the part number for the 08-10 model years. Does anyone know of any internal differences between the units that would prevent the swap? New ECU is kind of pricey and no one has a used late model ECU for sale.
 

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There is a difference in timing curves. I bet it would work, but would try real hard to find the right one unless you can get it for super cheap.
 

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Swap like that's always a risky deal. Chances are they didn't change the part number just because they had nothing better to do.

When I was contemplating a Power Commander I noticed that 2007 and before were listed as PC-III, while 2008 and newer were able to use the PC-V. That suggests to me there is fair bit of difference somewhere along the line.
 

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I would be very skeptical of it working. Not just different timing but in 08 they went to a single wire gear position sensor which you can't do the resistor mod on to fool the ECU. There very well may be more. I would do A LOT of research before I wasted the money on it. Even if get one cheap, it's money and time wasted if it don't work, unless you have plenty of both to waste, I would go for the actual part.
 

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I would call Pinwall Cycles and see if maybe they have one that they just aren't' listing on eBay. They usually have several V2K's that they are parting out. 330-879-9910
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Not really sure yet if it is an ECU problem. Starter is shorted to ground from starter relay so that's got to be replaced and I have a ground in the r/g wire power source to the coils. Ignition fuse holder reads to ground, coil power source reads to ground, four wire r/g connector reads to ground, r/g wire to starter button and engine stop switch reads to ground (when connector is disconnected, both switches read out fine) and r/g wire at ECU is grounded. All of this is with the coils disconnected at primary and secondary leads, battery, starter relay, starter control relay, relay box and ECU removed from the bike and all wiring except ignition to gauge cluster and fuel system disconnected. All relays and diodes check good on the bench. Starter lock-out, side stand, vehicle down, crankshaft and cam position switches, air temp and press. switches check out fine. AIS removed and 22ohm/5w resistor installed. No ECU codes shown and FI led and light go out with oil pressure. Suggestions, comments?
 

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Is this related to the dieing issue you have been dealing with for the last month?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Original problem occurred after the euro gear mod. Got a 15 minute ride in before the weather shot craps on me. Pulled the tank to check antifreeze level the reinstalled. Bike started after a few seconds of turning over, ran for about 30 seconds and stalled. Restarted and ran up to 2000 rpm, engine bucked, returned to idle and stalled. would not restart. It sounded like a fuel problem. Replaced the fuel pump and line, no joy. Started running checks. Fuel flow and pressure was OK. Coils read out within specs but coil peak voltage was 0 volts. Plugs are new. Pulled relay box, starter control relay and starter relay and they all tested fine on the bench. Started reading out wiring and found coil power wire grounded with ECU and relays out of the bike. Disconnected all wiring to the gauge cluster (except ignition) and right handlebar control wiring in the headlight bucket. Wiring for the circuit is isolated according to wiring diagram and is still reading to ground regardless whether ignition switch is on or off. Side stand, starter lock-out, engine stop, ignition, crank and cam sensors and vehicle down switches test OK. Air switching valve has been removed and resistor and caps installed.

Starter problem is it started dragging badly while troubleshooting and finally quit. Probably my fault. Reading is a direct short to ground from battery post on starter body. Will pull and test.

Meters used are an older Micronta and a new Fluke. Same results.

Visual inspection of wiring harness shows no apparent damage.

Another question: There is a Cobra tachometer installed. Is it possible for the tach to have an internal short to ground and still work? It is wired directly into the coil primary and secondary leads.

I appreciate the help from you guys. I'm about at wits end with this problem. Thanks, Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Micronta is analog, Fluke is digital.

FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!

The dealer installed BARRON'S Tach that was wired into the harness itself shorted out internally and grounded the whole system. Cut the wires to the tach and ballast and presto, no ground anywhere.

Starter tested OK at O'Reilly's and is reinstalled but I think the starter relay shot craps during all the testing.

Will post results after new starter relay is installed and the mule is back together. Thanks, Bob
 
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