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Discussion Starter #1
Need to find a place that can repair my ECU. Any one out there know of one in the U.S.? I think I fried it with my cheap battery charger while using it as a booster trying to start bike. Cheapest new one I can find is around $720.00 and being on a fixed income, that's pretty steep. Kaw p/n is 21175-0160. Can't find a used one for sale either. Don't know is an earlier model ECU will work. Any help would be appreciated. Bob
 

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Need to find a place that can repair my ECU. Any one out there know of one in the U.S.? I think I fried it with my cheap battery charger while using it as a booster trying to start bike. Cheapest new one I can find is around $720.00 and being on a fixed income, that's pretty steep. Kaw p/n is 21175-0160. Can't find a used one for sale either. Don't know is an earlier model ECU will work. Any help would be appreciated. Bob
It's a sealed unit, good luck repairing one. I just tried to get mine apart as I fried it effectively. I wasn't being gentle as it was merely exploratory surgery and I gave up.

I do know that the part numbers themselves are fairly interchangeable BUT you do have to deal with some major differences. Research before you buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
1. No FI LED or indicator lit, no codes showing in Dealer Modes 1 or 2
2. New fuel pump and line
3. New starter solenoid
4. New relay box
5. New starter control relay
6. Starter checks out OK on tester
7. All connectors clean and shiny
8. All sensors and switches operate normally
9. Ignition switch, fuel pump, fuel level and gauge wiring and connectors OK from fuel tank
10. Coils read out fine with multi-meter, all connections cleaned and replaced
11. Fuel injector resistance checks out OK
12. Crankshaft position sensor checks out OK with peak voltage adapter and for internal resistance and to ground
13. ECU power check shows the #11 post on ECU (W/R wire, back-up power to ECU from back-up fuse) has voltage with ignition switch off (voltage should be zero), all grounds OK
14. Coil peak voltage test shows zero voltage to coil primary leads (no signal to fire)

Everything I can think of to check and inspect is working fine but I have no fire signal to ignition coils from the ECU. Crankshaft position sensor sends the fire signal to ECU to fire the coils and trip the fuel injectors. All troubleshooting charts in the service manual say BAD ECU!

Just as an info item, I called Kawasaki Heavy Industries direct and ECU's are not interchangeable with the following exceptions: 04 and 05 are not, 06 and 07 are, 08 thru 10 are. Starter relay, starter control relay and relay box are common between numerous Kawasaki street bikes.
 

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You are saying no start because no spark?

What is the history...just would not start one day, ran rough, etc?

Has it been laid down?

Does the fuel pump work?

Engine turns over fine?
 

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Geez - that's a pricey ECU. Three times the price of even a stock HD ECM! Yowza! Make sure that's really the issue before you drop that much coin! Sfair knows his stuff - to him you listen!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I blame myself for this. Did the Euro-gear mod, got a 15 minute ride in then pulled the tank to check coolant level. Put it all back together and started bike. Ran for a minute then died. Restarted, ran it up to about 2000 rpm, engine bucked and died. Would not restart. Started checking components and after numerous attempts to restart, found the aftermarket Barron's Tach had shorted out. Removed tach and single fire adapter and bike would not start. Was using a six amp battery charger to keep the battery up during troubleshooting prior to discovering and removing bad tach and failed to remove it while attempting a start. There was a loud pop from the battery charger and I disconnected it from battery. Did not blow any fuses.

I've done every check I can think of on the bike. All wiring and connectors are good. All relays have been either replaced or checked out good. All sensors check OK. All switches have been tested and are working. All components check out OK, with the exception of the previously mentioned power discrepancy in the ECU, just don't have signal to fire coils. ECU is about all it could be. Now that I've had a chance to think about it, the initial failure to start and stay running are the exact symptoms that would have shown up with the tach failing and tach is wired into the coil primary lead from the ECU.

New fuel pump has been installed, bike has never been down (vehicle down sensor tests good), engine turns over OK (de-comp solenoid and starter test good)
 

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Where were all tach wires connected?

Also, a little confused. In the above, you said that bike would not start. You removed shorted tach and bike would not start? How did you know tach was shorted and which lead was shorted?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Noticed the tach needle stuck at about 600 rpm. Primary coil leads were reading a dead short to ground, should read battery voltage with ignition switch on. Leads from tach attach to both coil primaries, #1 coil secondary and ground. Removed tach and single fire adapter leads and primary coil leads no longer grounded and had battery voltage at coil primaries. Read across tach leads and all were shorted to each other and the ground lead. SFA seemed OK. Hooked everything back up and she still won't fire.
 

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Something funny here:

1. V2K does not require single fire adapter.
2. Ignition fuse never blew at any time?

Did you install the tach?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am coming in midstream here.

Post back with make and model number of your meter for my reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tach came with the bike. Evidently the Barron's tach needs one to tell it how many cylinders in the motor. Tach worked fine for the 10K miles I've put on the bike. All fuses are OK, never blown one since I've had the bike.
 

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Tach and adapter are currently disconnected and still no start?

Can you send me a link for the tach that you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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You are right about adapter. I had a moment of confusion. (a senior moment, to be exact)

I need the make and model number of your hand held multi-meter that you are using.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Meter is a Micronta, model 22-214A analog multi-meter. Also have a couple of inexpensive digital meters. Readings on all meters are more or less the same. I prefer the analog Micronta because it's faster to indicate and known to be accurate.
 

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OK, could you do the following. Use the digital meter as they are more sensitive to small voltage drops. All readings taken with battery ground reference:

1. Key on, take voltage reading across battery.
2. Quickly, take reading across both connectors, both coils.
3. Post back with 5 readings including wire colors for each coil reading.
 
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