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Discussion Starter #1
I dont see alot of info on maps here for PC's.. I just bought a PCV and also bought Cobra Speedster Swept pipes. Looking on Dynojets web site they dont have a map for that.. Does anyone?? If not, would anyone know which of these I should use.. Bike is stock other than pipes for now.. The Dyno V can hold 2 maps and change on the fly so maybe I should load both speedster straights and try them???? Other ideas?? Thanks in advance.. Also, whats a Zero map?? Does that just mean its like stock is now?? Sorry new to this technology..

M17-015-000 Zero map
M17-015-001 Stock exhaust, stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-002 Bub Big Willy exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-003 *Advanced Map*, Cobra Speedster slash down full exhaust, K&N Big air kit
M17-015-004 Cobra Speedster shorts, Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-005 Bub Jug Huggers exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-006 DG 3" Big Straights , Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-007 Cobra Dragster duals, Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-008 Cobra Speedster slash down full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
M17-015-009 Hard Krome 2 into1 Sideburner exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
 

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Without an intake system the M17-015-003 map would be on the rich side. I would try installing a switch and run M17-015-008 and M17-015-004. Switch between them and see which one gives you the best performance. The best thing to do is finish with your mods and have it dyno tuned. The zero map is for running stock programing. If you run that map the PC-V won't add or take away fuel from the factory program.

HTH
Max
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think thats the plan for now.. 2 maps.. Whats cool, from what I read, is that the new Dyno 5 can you can have 2 maps stored and change them on the fly.. Whats it cost to Dyno a bike?? Any ideas??
 

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The two map feature is a cool tool. I have been playing with it for a while. When my pipes get here I am going to schedule an appointment for the dyno. The guy here charges around $200.00 for a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, got my dyno.. Didnt realize I need a switch to toggle between the 2 maps.. No biggie but it would have been nice if it said that.. Also, I need to take off the tank to install it.. If I knew that I would not have filled up the tank so now I am waiting a bit.. In the meantime, anyone have a quick way to remove the tank?? I started to do it with out the manual and it wasnt too bad but if there an easy (parts manual) way please let me know.. I guess I just learned what the next thing I need to buy for my bike is....... Freaking manuals should come with it..:eek:
 

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While you have the tank off, I would tap into the orange temp sensor wire and run it back to the PC-V. The sender is right behind the thermostat on the left hand side of the frame under the tank. You can pick up the speed sensor at the ECM. There is an orange wire at the ECM, but it isn't the right one. I found that out the hard way. I built a table of the resistance values and temps if I can find it.
 

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I bought the pcIII for my 2009 before I realized the pcV was for the 2009 model. Anyone know of advantage to performance of the V over III now that I bought wrong one. I know there's an extra wire but not sure what it is for.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Maybe the extra wire is just for the 2nd map because there are 2 for it on my V so you can put in a switch to go between them..

What will that sensor do for me?? Sorry, dont mean to be ignorant just dont know.. And what is that acronym for the speed sensor your referring to?? Thanks.. I think I will try again on Friday, wish me luck..
 

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Biohazzmat, I don't know what the extra wire on the III is for. I can tell you that the III and the V do the same thing. The V just has more toys to play with. The ability to store 2 maps, adjust when the fuel is added via engine temp, ease of added accessories and smaller size to name a few. You do loose the ability to adjust from the face of the unit like the III however. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the III, I almost went that way as well. The V was just on sale for only $20 more, so I went with it!
 

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What will that sensor do for me?? Sorry, don't mean to be ignorant just don't know.. And what is that acronym for the speed sensor your referring to?? Thanks.. I think I will try again on Friday, wish me luck..
The temp sender will allow you to control how/when fuel is added in relation to engine temp. You may never need to use that feature, but while you have the tank off it is easy to run the wire and make the connection. The harness that runs to the temp sender is actually located just above the connectors for the fuel injectors. It comes out of the main harness that runs along the right side of the frame and runs under the frame to the sender on the left. It has an orange wire and a brown wire inside a flexible plastic tube. ECM stands for Engine Control Module. It is located in front of the battery. You can see it once you remove the plastic cover over the battery. It is the small black box with all of the wires running into it. The speed sensor wire is located in that harness.

HTH
Max
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for taking the time to clarify that.. My plan is to run the tank dry the next few days and take Friday off to get this done.. Hopefully it wont be too bad and I can be ready for a couple poker runs this weekend I would like to go on.. Wish me luck or I may just be taking the R6 instead..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
While you have the tank off, I would tap into the orange temp sensor wire and run it back to the PC-V. The sender is right behind the thermostat on the left hand side of the frame under the tank. You can pick up the speed sensor at the ECM. There is an orange wire at the ECM, but it isn't the right one. I found that out the hard way. I built a table of the resistance values and temps if I can find it.
Ok, I got the PCV installed in about an hour, pretty easy with the help of everyone here.. That quick release fuel line is nice.. Just like it was mentioned, only spilled a few drops and thats just cuz I tipped it.. I didnt attempt the 2 things mentioned above due to time (buddy wanted to head to casino).. Since taking off the tank is pretty easy after all I will do it later.. I also didnt have a chance to pick up any 22g wire and a switch but hope to do that before the run tomorrow so I can switch between the 2 maps.. I dont remember which one is loaded now but it definetly doesnt POP as much as it was.. Its either the 04 or 08.. What I dont understand is why dont they just give you another inline connector instead of using the crimps.. Overall, not a difficult task.. Next spring or so I will try to get it dyno'd unless I run into problems with it but I dont think so.. Thanks again MLR1 for your help..
 

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Good to hear that it all went good for you! It would definitely be quicker if they would include an in line connector for the TPS (throttle position sensor) instead of the posi tap. If you have a soldering iron. I highly recommend that you solder the TPS wire and all other accessory (speed sensor, temp) connections. This will help with any chance of corrosion giving you fits in the long run.
 

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I found my list of values=temps.
Resistance. temp in Fahrenheit.
2.53 = 75
2.10 = 80
1.80 = 90
1.49 = 100
1.29 = 110
1.14 = 130
.88 = 140
.76 = 155
.65 = 160
.53 = 170
.45 = 180
.37 = 190

These numbers will not be exact. Each bike will be a bit different, but should work just fine. You can't enter all of the values. You will just have to choose some from the list.

As for the map switch. Here is what I did for mine:

I just made a small tab out of ABS plastic and mounted it under the key cylinder mounting bolt. Keeps it out of sight and fairly easy to reach while on the road.
 
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