Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK I have the EPA removed, the tube between valve covers is blocked as instructed however I still hear a tapping from the valve cover in the vicinity of the reed valves, just bugs me so the lat time I did my valve adjustments to ensure it wasn't an out of spec valve spaces I converted my existing REED VALVES in coaster plates that block off that passageway completely, here is how I did it.

After you have valve cover off you can access the Reed Valves easily, clean the carbon and crap off the reed valves and disassemble the by removing the 2 screws on the underside, now you have 5 parts: 2 screws, 1 plate with opening, a thin reed valve and the curved stopper plate. Wipe all pieces clean, use a grease remover but do not use carb cleaner or any other type of carb/intake cleaner, it will ruin any rubber parts and seals. Once clean place the curved stopper plate between 2 flat plates and wack the top plate with a hemmer, I like to put things like this between plates because a bad strike can sent that part hurtling through the air and possible injuring someone or damaging something that it might hit, the plates prevent this. Anyway once you have that piece flat you can reassemble the reed valves, the stopper plate now holds the valve closed all the time. That along with the tube being blocked ensures no operation of the reed valves at all. Have not heard the ticking since I did this.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #2

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I like to slightly over straighten the stopper plates and give them a very small curve in the other direction, that way when the screws are tightened the reed valve will be securely seated for good, use permanent locktite (red) on threads and I chiseled the ends of the screws to ensure they will never come out on their own.



023.jpg
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top