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I have a 1996 vulcan classic 1500.....do you have to do anything before you remove the left side clutch cover to get to the clutch reservoir?

Didnt know if anykind of fluid was behind the cover that comes leaking out...just want to make sure...Thanks
-TIm
 

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I have a 1996 vulcan classic 1500.....do you have to do anything before you remove the left side clutch cover to get to the clutch reservoir?

Didnt know if anykind of fluid was behind the cover that comes leaking out...just want to make sure...Thanks
-TIm
I'm too lazy to break out my Clymer but the clutch reservoir is up on the handlebar. Sure you knew that but the way you worded it is confusing. Yes, behind the cover is a bleeder valve and the process is much like the brakes when replacing the fluid. I have to do mine this spring so keep us apprised.
 

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What is the process if installing a new Stainless steel braided line,
I thought someone with that experience might chime in by now. Truth is I've never replaced an OEM clutch or brake line.

Obviously the fluid would be drained and line removed...install new braided line and refill/bleed. Not much help if your looking for details...sorry.

I use an obsolete, confiscated (by me) medical infusion pump to draw fluid through a brake system. I have control over the rate of flow so I just keep up with the reservoir fill. I use and prime the designed tubing for this pump and adapt it to the bleeder valve..works great. It also has a sophisticated charging system for the onboard 12V battery (got rid of that) which I use on one of the batteries for the bikes. It also has a Digital Voltage readout in one of the Bio options. I use to use that to troubleshoot the integrity of a batteries worth by monitoring the rate of charge and/or discharge.
 

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I'm thinking of a reverse flow fluid fill method, forcing with a hand pump the brake fluid from the bleeder valve up the line to the reservoir, thus going the same way air wants to travel and forcing air up and out at the reservoir
 

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I'm thinking of a reverse flow fluid fill method, forcing with a hand pump the brake fluid from the bleeder valve up the line to the reservoir, thus going the same way air wants to travel and forcing air up and out at the reservoir
Seen that done on a video clip...this guy used a hand pump first then showed a cheaper way by using a plastic container half filled with the Dot 3 (or whatever), tipped it upside down and squeezed it into the bleeder valve via a hose up the empty line to the reservoir. Whatever works!
 

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I simply went to a farm supply store (I know, not available everywhere) and got a 60cc "Irrigator" (looks like a big syringe) and fitted a length of clear tubing to the end that would seal to the bleeder fitting. I simply open the cover on the housing attached to the handlebars, jam the tubing from my syringe onto the bleeder screw, open the bleeder, and as I draw the fluid into the syringe I make sure to top off the reservoir. The whole thing takes just a few minutes. Simple, effective, and it costs about $5 total, minus the fluid.
 

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I simply went to a farm supply store (I know, not available everywhere) and got a 60cc "Irrigator" (looks like a big syringe) and fitted a length of clear tubing to the end that would seal to the bleeder fitting. I simply open the cover on the housing attached to the handlebars, jam the tubing from my syringe onto the bleeder screw, open the bleeder, and as I draw the fluid into the syringe I make sure to top off the reservoir. The whole thing takes just a few minutes. Simple, effective, and it costs about $5 total, minus the fluid.

Excellent idea. Thanks.

CMOS
 
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