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Discussion Starter #21
wish i can turn off the engine light kit, or find a fuse for it to pull it, i think that has a small drain on it?do yall know
 

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Discussion Starter #23
IT WAS A 2 for 1 deal, both new igel agm...now i am think n abot selling one of them, or swapping them every 6mos....

but still not sure if I shelf one of them4 a long period of time, the battery will go bad?

would hate to go thru the inconveince of swapping them,................
 

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IT WAS A 2 for 1 deal, both new igel agm...now i am think n abot selling one of them, or swapping them every 6mos....

but still not sure if I shelf one of them4 a long period of time, the battery will go bad?

would hate to go thru the inconveince of swapping them,................
Personally, I would just sell the extra one. If you were to keep it, it would be best to keep it on a battery maintainer so the charge doesn't fall. By the time you would need it, you would be looking at a battery that's 3-5 years old. Even if it wasn't used, it's still old.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
thanks rick, but i'd hav2sell it at a discount, and i figure the battery, if i swap it every 6mos, would keep the gel cells active?.............but still would think if i shelf the battery, minus jumping an older batter, would still b a new good battery when i need it, no?...........didn't know gel packs batterys get 'old' like fluids: oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc. not sure who i can verify this with
 

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thanks rick, but i'd hav2sell it at a discount, and i figure the battery, if i swap it every 6mos, would keep the gel cells active?.............but still would think if i shelf the battery, minus jumping an older batter, would still b a new good battery when i need it, no?...........didn't know gel packs batterys get 'old' like fluids: oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc. not sure who i can verify this with
You would still have 2 old batteries in a handful of years, once the electrolyte has been added. You may get an extra year or more, but in the end Just my .02
 

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Do you need to add water to these??
I will never buy a water add battery again, and dont understand why they still make them.
Hated it when I'd check the bike battery and it was way low on water.
We stopped having to check car batteries in the 80s WHY do they continue on in bikes???
 

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As to your vanity lights, can't you trace the wires? Once you know how they are connected, you can determine if you just want to disconnect them or remove the fuse for now, or remove them entirely. If you are going to do your own maintenance, you need to learn that, too. Lots of electrical issue troubleshooting is tracing wires to find shorts or bad ground connections.

Of course, the other answer has already been suggested. Turn the key off and take it with you. If turning off the key solves the drain problem, it's a really easy fix. Unless you just like flirting with making your bike easy to steal.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
thanks yall, its AGM, igel battery no fluid.
i dont leave the key in ever. but i hear the engine light kit, still can drain the bike, even when its off, true?

QUICK ques....even with the old battery and new one, i tighten the terminal posts, and their real tite snug, but when i ride it around for a week or two, they loosen up some how again, prolly from vibrations, any suggestions on how to keep em tight?......... b/c i dont need to have an issue starting the bike. THANKS
 

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You said you left the key in and turned on after using the kill switch while you went into a store.

Not knowing what kit you have or how it was installed, it's not possible to know if it would drain your battery. If it was designed for a motorcycle and properly installed, it shouldn't have more than a very insignificant parasitic drain. If it has a key fob, it has to have a controller on the bike to pick up the signal from the fob. If it was installed wrong or the controller on the bike is bad, it could drain the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
miscommunication, no kill switch. old battery was dying regardless, overnite ,after a 5m ride each nite, (also somewhat cold).

new chrome battery starts up, no battery tender needed.
Quick question , i asked in another thread.
I have 2 new igel chrome batteries. When i shelf one of them, is that bad, will that hurt the battery? or do you recommend me swapping them out every 6months ( trying to sell the other, its new), thanks?
 

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Then your problem actually has nothing to do with the tank lights? You really need to make your questions and answers more clear. Ask a question about one problem in one thread. Ask questions on different issues in their own individual threads. I'm not trying to be mean. We all ask unclear questions or give unclear or wrong answers, but an effort on your part to be more clear and precise would be a big help.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
thanks sabre, will do.

question, went from old battery not holding charge (got a new battery), but then i asked, b/c i have an engine lite kit, i want to disconnect it, by finding a fuse to remove, instead of removing the lighting kit which is on pretty snug w tie wraps onthe sub frame/tank.....i hear the engine kit drains battery a bit, even with no key in there, with bike off.

thanks
 

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Depends on what type of kit it is and how it was installed. It may or may not have it's own fuse. If the kit is designed or was installed in such a way that it can be turned on with the key fob, but without having the bike key turned on, then it would have to have some parasitic draw in order to react to the key fob. If it gets it's power from a circuit that is only powered when the key is on, then there should be no current used with the bike key is off. If it gets it's power from the battery, but runs thru a relay that only powers it when the bike power is on, then that relay could go bad and cause a drain, but otherwise, no drain likely. If the controller is the relay and it is wired both to a key on circuit and directly to the battery, the relay in the controller could be bad, causing a drain. Without knowing what kind of kit it is or how it was installed, it's pretty much impossible to tell you how to disconnect it or if it would cause a drain on the battery when the bike is off.

Zip ties are cheap. Trace the wires, cut the existing zip ties, isolate the kit wires, and zip tie the remaining wires where they were. Rinse repeat until you have traced the kit wires back to the controller and ground, and from the controller to the power source.
 

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Ok, here's an idea, turn the light kit off and on with a switch. My bike has a cigarette lighter that is attached directly to the battery. But it also has a rocker switch, so you can turn off and on whatever is plugged into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
hey guys, forgot to mention there's a black wire, connected to the battery red post, with a little rubber apparetus cover boot thingy, that has a fuse in it, one end o fthe wire goes to the red post, the other goes below the bike, i wonder if that's the lite kit fuse? or is that fuse for the battery?....
 

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just to be clear: lead-acid batteries are not made to the stored for years. they DO age (the lead oxidizes) with or without a trickle charger attached.

obviously, it the battery is connected to an automatic charger while in storage, it will degrade at a slower rate, but no matter what, it will not have the same capacity as a newly made one. some batteries are shipped dry, you put the acid in it before use, then charge it per specifications..
 

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I agree with the sentiment that durox expressed, but not the chemistry. Actually, it is not lead oxides that are the problem, but lead sulfates. Half of the plates in a battery are lead dioxide, after all. Lead sulfate, created by adding sulfuric acid, is a necessary part of the chemistry of these batteries, but over time (or very quickly in an undercharged battery) hard insoluble lead sulfate crystals form. Once the sulfuric acid is added to the battery, these crystals start to form and the clock begins ticking on the life of the battery.

The process of "desulfonating" a battery redissolves lead sulfate crystals, they are a different, softer crystalline form that can be redissolved. Desulfonating a battery may dissolve some of the hard crystals, but rarely enough to rejuvenate a battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
THANKS, but i have to igel agm chrome batteries, (both new-1 i am tryn2sell)....well one is in the bike, the other on the shelf, will that one die or rot over time? or should I swap them out every 6mos regularly? thanks!
 

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1) The black wire you mention with the rubber boot likely has a fuse in it. Since it is directly connected to the battery it likely causes a parasitic draw on the battery. i would recommend disconnecting the wire from the battery. This is all assuming there is not additional installed electrical equipment.

2) the gel battery still uses acid and will discharge over time. even swapping every few months you likely will not get any more life out of the batteries. They both will likely be dead in 4 to 6 years due to time degrading them just as much as charging and discharging.

3) As far as your terminals coming loose sounds like something is installed incorrectly they should not become loose over time.

4) Batteries do not have fuses, fuses are meant to protect the wiring when an electrical load pull to many amps from the power source.

5) i recommend you find a friend with knowledge of wiring help you remove the aftermarket wiring.

I hope 1-3 answer your questions, 4 is for your education, and 5 is my recommendation. When asking muliple questions in a single post it is best to seperate them like my answer.
 
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