Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
The bike would still be lowered 1" if you use the other hole on the lowering link, its lowered 2 or 3" right now as it sits, but it would be better and closer to stock, and easier then removing it and buying the factory link.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
Also check the front to see if the forks have been raised in the triple tree.This will also need adjusting when making any changes to the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
I guess I can live with bike being lowered 1".

Bandit,
How do I go about checking if forks have been raised in the triple tree?

Thx.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
If the tops of the forks are protruding passed the top of the tree, then the front has been lowered. Usually, stock bikes have their forks flush with the top of the tree. Find a stock VN900 photo and use that as a baseline reference for the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
761 Posts
If the tops of the forks are protruding passed the top of the tree, then the front has been lowered. Usually, stock bikes have their forks flush with the top of the tree. Find a stock VN900 photo and use that as a baseline reference for the front.
Exactly what he said.Great advice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
918 Posts
I took a picture of the top triple tree. Looks like the front is not lowered.

View attachment 75066



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
Nope! So, since your rear-end will be 1" lower than stock, I think the front needs to be about the same for proper tracking of both wheels. Otherwise, the bike will steer wide. IE: it would be like having too much weight on the rear tire, causing the bike to sag excessively which changes steering geometry.

When you raise the rear to the other hole, you may find your bike turns tons better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
gartdm98...I think you should take a measurement of the front forks and compare it to a stock bike. Some people cut down their fork springs to lower it to match the rear. Just to be sure ya know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
347 Posts
Hey Gart. Don't get too excited about dropping the front forks with just a 1" drop on the rear.

My custom is dropped 2" in the rear and nothing in the front, and I have no issues, and to be frank, I noticed the effects of the 230 rear tire a lot more than a modest 2" drop in the rear.

I cannot argue that the steering geometry is changed when you drop the bike 1" or 2", or even if you ride 2-up rather than solo, but IMHO it is far from dangerous or freaky. I guess maybe a lost a couple of inches in my tightest turning circle radius before vs after - I'm not too sure, as I never measured it - but I do not notice it.

Again, E&OE; you make all modifications to your bike and you take all risks in doing so.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Went ahead tonight and raised it 1" from the current 2" setting. Wasn't that bad of a job. Took a little over an hour to get it done.
There is one thing I need to clarify.
Service manual says to torque lower tie-rod nut to 44 ft/lbs and Baron installation instruction says 60 ft/lbs.
So which one should I use? I went with 44 as per service manual, but not sure if this is correct.

Any input is greatly appreciated.





Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Not to beat the dead horse here, but I'm still curious , as a general rule what should I trust more, torque specs in service manual or the one from after market component installation instructions?
In this case its the same OEM lower tie-rod nut and it seems odd that there is such difference in torque specs.
I realize that service manual can be wrong too, but I tend to believe that manufacturer info is more accurate.

Am I wrong with my assumption and is it safe to leave it at 44ft/lbs?



Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
216 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I would try calling Barons and try to get their opinion.
Called Baron. The answer was to use their torque settings vs factory. And justification for that is that's what they used during RnD process.
I guess I have to go with that.

Although I'm still not completely sold on it. OEM link arms and Baron kit looks almost the same. Baron is longer if I'm not mistaking and has two holes on the bottom vs one for OEM and that is about it.

I'm getting a bit anal here I know :)
But I'll do what they say.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top