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DIY air cleaner question

3819 Views 29 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  markdavidson
Im way too cheap to buy the thunder 51010 stock cover kit so I'm wanting to make it instead. The question I have is what are the dimensions of the air filter. I'm hoping it's either a standard harley part or a 6-3/8" automotive size. Also, I've heard of complaints with metal backing plates on big air kits due to heat soaking of the temp sensor so I'm going to try some 1/4" lexan instead. Thanks for any input guys.
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Damn! you are a cheap ass. :) Lexan??? really ?? It'll crack..... Never work. There is a reason guys make these from aluminum or steel....
I am very sure lexan will not crack... but it will flex. I believe it would make good prototyping material if you have a supply of it, I use it often partially because of it's transparency
I'm thinking of a plastic vs metal because of the lack of heat transfer. Lexan actually costs just as much as aluminum. I don't have anything against store bought parts I just like to get the most hp for the dollar.
I just like to get the most hp for the dollar.
You bought the wrong bike then. ;)

Way less expensive bike out there with higher horsepower to weight ratios.
I know a guy that made a air filter housing for a Yamaha with a 10 inch aluminum frying pan/skillet. Even left the handle on it....

Compared to all the other crazy crap he had on it, it did not look out of place... he also used galvanized pipe for exhaust pipes.

But having used assorted plastics for a lot of projects.... I would worry about the heat my Voyager gives off from the head regions. BUt depending on the "blend" of plastic you use... if you are good at creating, you could make a really unique air filter box... almost as good as a frying pan..........
I would like to get the same material they used for the factory box but I don't think you can just go to walmart and find a sheet of that stuff. Lexan is decently temperature tolerant but it breaks down when you hit it with petroleum :( I might just have to break down and do it with aluminum and try relocating the sensor before I drill a spot for it on the plate.
As far as the wrong bike, I've had most of the other types. I know this will never be fast but it could at least have a muscular 0-60 hustle and be less of an EPA turd. If I can get the engine even close to feeling like my stock Victory Vegas did I will be pleased.
I would like to get the same material they used for the factory box but I don't think you can just go to walmart and find a sheet of that stuff. Lexan is decently temperature tolerant but it breaks down when you hit it with petroleum :( I might just have to break down and do it with aluminum and try relocating the sensor before I drill a spot for it on the plate.
Lexan also does not like Loctite (or other thread locker products). The Loctite migrates through the Lexan as if it were a sponge and then the Lexan crumbles into tiny fragments...I learned that expensive lesson some time ago.
I know a guy that made a air filter housing for a Yamaha with a 10 inch aluminum frying pan/skillet. Even left the handle on it....
I imagine that would have been useful on camping trips? :cool:
I would like to get the same material they used for the factory box but I don't think you can just go to walmart and find a sheet of that stuff. Lexan is decently temperature tolerant but it breaks down when you hit it with petroleum :( I might just have to break down and do it with aluminum and try relocating the sensor before I drill a spot for it on the plate.
perfect place for the AIT will have to extend your wires:



up on the frame just behind the neck 6mm threaded hole
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Thats a nice convenient spot and out of sight on the vaq. Thanks mark
Ok. It cut it out of 1/4" aluminum. Got a template cut up and it looks like the filter from an evo harley fits.
Give us a couple pics when you are done.... sounds like you got it solved...
that is looking good...
please keep us posted
Fwiw. The hardware will be changed out this was just for mockup. Also I need to enlarge the holes to match the throttle body. I'm thinking the easiest way to attach the cover will be with longer bolts and standoffs made from tubing. Not quite as classy as fabricated standoff studs but I don't have tooling to make those.
Like it never happened. Menards had some stainless 10-32 x 1-1/2" allen head screws. They're so close to the factory metrics that the same allen wrench fit them.

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