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Discussion Starter #1
Well it was a moment of accomplishment. LOL
So I figured I would post a pic to hopefully give anyone who will do it for the first time a head start and not go to bed stumped as I did many nights.

You have to get your fingernail in behind the front facing portion of the connector and bend a tab underneath it towards you.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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never quit

imp'y, congrats on the win over those connectors giving up thier hold on you. did you get the tank off? how bout that fuel connector thingy? any success there?
what exactly are you doing under the hood...er, tank?
I moved all those wires n connectors to up under the front of tank. I like a cleaner profile look. out, ponch
 

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The connectors are a pain. There's always a trick to them. I've had my tank off about 4 or 5 times now trying to get my fuel controller to work. Those little hoses on the back are not easy either. I found a big dirt dobber nest under my tank where it had been sitting. I liked to have never found the self diagnosis wire in the battery box. I'm learning a lot about this bike in a short time.......;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Tank off yet ? Come on. I just figured out the connectors. LOL
I'm going tackle that in the next day or so. Have two demanding twins that are lately consuming a lot of my time.
But since you asked Poncho. How do I get to that fuel line from the side ? Its so buried behind the wires and that fuel pump.
Do I remove that bracket that holds the wiring harness and shift it to the side to get to it ?
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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less is more... or less

How do I get to that fuel line from the side ? Its so buried behind the wires and that fuel pump. Do I remove that bracket that holds the wiring harness and shift it to the side to get to it ?
imperor, bingo. remove the wires, bracket, anything that gets between you and success. in this case it is a little red squeazy clip, embedded in the fuel line. yes, clear a path. use a small tool (screwdriver?) to push the two red feet and the head of the clip will pop out the other side. gently pull the fuel line off the fuel pump nipple. The tank can now be lifted first back, then up and off. in case you didn't notice, there is an additional two wire clip from the fuel pump to the wiring harness. unplug that first b4 lifting the tank.
I got rid of all that left side debri. routed the speedo and tank wires forward along the frame and stuffed the connectors in the opening at the front of the tank and frame. it cleans up nice. good luck with yor project... what is it anyway? out, ponch
 

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Discussion Starter #6
good luck with yor project... what is it anyway?, ponch
-Going to swap out the bars to a set of Burly 1 1/4" - 14" apes.
-Dismantle the Lightbar that was installed by previous owner and re-work
the set-up so that it will only be a turnsignal/run set-up with some aftermarket LED duel circuit LED's.
-Run power line from the battery to front frame neck and install switch to contral power to a GPS I'm going to install on top of the headlight housing.

But my first step is putting the new bars on and figuring out how long over stock I need to order the cables and front brake line.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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you got you a chop chop

-Going to swap out the bars to a set of Burly 1 1/4" - 14" apes. -Dismantle the Lightbar that was installed by previous owner and re-work the set-up so that it will only be a turnsignal/run set-up with some aftermarket LED duel circuit LED's. -Run power line from the battery to front frame neck and install switch to contral power to a GPS I'm going to install on top of the headlight housing. But my first step is putting the new bars on and figuring out how long over stock I need to order the cables and front brake line.
imp'etti, doooders! that'd be way 2 kool. big bear ba'hrs for the beast.
am not much a fan of leds on mirrors tho. too techie imo, needs wires. personally prefer them more integrated into the front silohouette. but thas jus me.
ya's might consider routing that primary power wiring from the batt thru a power relay so that the gps not hot 24/7, but rather only when the key is on. thataway, neither yu nor some numskull can leave it on an run the batt down.
is simple wiring. just need a relay under left side cover. power routes thru the contacts. your handily located on/off switch can be powered from the lic plate nite lite (only hot when keyed). the switch is wired to the relay coil. if'n you need a drawing, send an email or fax via pm n I will furnish. is the way I do all accessorie wiring. keeps the stock wiring harness wiring unloaded, free from unplanned fires, etc. out, ponchero

edit: I will just scan a dwg and post it somewheres here for all the wood bee 'lectricians among us.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Poncho, your killing me with all these suggestion. LOL
Got to keep it simple right now and tackle one thing at a time.
[email protected]#!$ I had to remove and install one of my toilets today.
Had a new one in a box for over a week just sitting by the front door that my wife was getting anoyed at me for not doing it sooner. Throw in a bike project and ....well my brian is over whelmed.

Like your idea about the power supply though.

Tomorrow I'll have the old bars off and set in the new ones.
I'll post a pic once on for mock up of cable and brake length figuring out.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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too much info'mation

install my toilet sitting by the front door in a bike project and ....well the old bars off and set the new ones for mock up of cable and brake length figuring out.
impy, well...hmm...toilets...bike projects...front door...annoyed wifey...hmmm. sounds like you got your hands full. ever consider combining some of those tasks? toilet/bike.. kinda stinks, eh? front door/toilet.. comes in handy when your in a hurry, eh? bike/wifey project? best keep things seperate. wouldnt want to mix up bars n cables with wifey n toilets. or you may be the one parked by the front door... the otherside of.

14" mini-apes w/stock risers? is 6"taller. I'd say add 6" cables. or route the stock ones diff'ren and see if they stretch. out, ponchilla
 
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