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Discussion Starter #1
Recently there's been a few threads where the OP was having difficulty downshifting and included a few posters who had problems with upshifting as well. One cause might be drag in the shift linkage that doesn't allow the shift mechanism to return to the center before the next shift is made. This was a good reason to take more parts of my bike apart and see how they work. :) I took my shift lever off of my '10 Custom with the thought of cleaning the old grease and replacing it with moly grease, as well as lubing the two heim joints. Much to my surprise the shift lever pivot bushing was dryer than a popcorn fart! Now maybe I'm just the unlucky bugger who's bike was assembled on a Monday or a Friday but it made me think that others may be in the same boat. it's easy enough to take off and have a look. I actually took the whole linkage off and gave everything a good cleaning before greasing up the bushing and shooting oil into the two heim joints. Total time was less than a 1/2 hour.
 

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Okay, this sounds important. And I am not completely ignorant around wrenches. But what the heck is a Heim joint and what is entailed in this disassembly/greasing operation? Do I need special tools? Will I need to replace the oil after this proceedure? Is there a proceedure to follow? Can someone provide some pictures? I looked in the service manual, but I saw nothing in the Periodic Maintenance chapter even mentioning the shift lever. I don't doubt that these joints aren't greased properly at the factory, just like the rocker arms on the first 3 year models never seemed to be greased well. Please give some advise if you can. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Okay, this sounds important. And I am not completely ignorant around wrenches. But what the heck is a Heim joint and what is entailed in this disassembly/greasing operation? Do I need special tools? Will I need to replace the oil after this proceedure? Is there a proceedure to follow? Can someone provide some pictures? I looked in the service manual, but I saw nothing in the Periodic Maintenance chapter even mentioning the shift lever. I don't doubt that these joints aren't greased properly at the factory, just like the rocker arms on the first 3 year models never seemed to be greased well. Please give some advise if you can. Thanks.
No problem, everything is external. You can Google "heim joints" and you will recognize right away what I'm referring to. You need a 10mm and a 14mm wrench. You will need a hex key to take the left side cover off. Just note where everything is before you take it off. The bushing in the shift lever swivel slide right out. Clean with WD40 or any solvent. If you can find marine grease it will hold up better during rain storms otherwise I used moly grease to liberally coat the bushing and the sleeve. I use WD40 to clean the heim joints. Just carefully peal back the rubber boots before cleaning. I blow out the WD40 with compressed air before spraying lubricating oil in the joint. Carefully pull the boots back over the joint. Reassemble in reverse order and you're good to go.
 

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Sorry to be a pain, I know WD40 but what is " moly grease"?
Good advice as usual Sojourner...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry to be a pain, I know WD40 but what is " moly grease"?
Good advice as usual Sojourner...
moly grease(short for Molybdenum disulfide) is often a component of blends and composites where low friction is sought. It's an all-around light weight grease. Any other low friction grease will work just as well.
 

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moly grease(short for Molybdenum disulfide) is often a component of blends and composites where low friction is sought. It's an all-around light weight grease. Any other low friction grease will work just as well.
Actually depends on the type of bushings being used. If the bushings are the porous oil-lite type, then the molybdenum soaps in the grease will clog those pores and defeat the self-oiling qualities. In those cases, only oil should be used. I don't know what kind of bushings are used in the shift lever bore, but I usually just put a drop of oil at each end when I'm changing the oil.
Sawatdee:)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Actually depends on the type of bushings being used. If the bushings are the porous oil-lite type, then the molybdenum soaps in the grease will clog those pores and defeat the self-oiling qualities. In those cases, only oil should be used. I don't know what kind of bushings are used in the shift lever bore, but I usually just put a drop of oil at each end when I'm changing the oil.
Sawatdee:)
The oil won't go far because there are O ring seals on either end. The bushing is steel, not brass nor oil-lite (unfortunately). Mine was starting to corrode already. Probably the curry over here LOL
 

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The oil won't go far because there are O ring seals on either end. The bushing is steel, not brass nor oil-lite (unfortunately). Mine was starting to corrode already. Probably the curry over here LOL
Didn't know about the o-rings! The oil seemed to wick its way in, though.

Was at U-Tapao RTAFB in '70-'71. I remember the curry!:D
 

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Before I did my first oil change, my bike was hanging up in a lower gear when I would wind the engine up to shift. I knew it wasn't my shifting, since I've owned bikes since Lincoln was president. So, I figured I would change my oil and filter. I changed the oil, and the bike shifts perfectly now. My last Suzuki would do the same thing. Its like one of those "engine maintenance due" lights on the dashboard of a car.
 

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AAA solution Magyar!
Could not agree more, my shifting was getting difficult, someone from this forum recommended to do a change of oil and filter, I did, there was no comparison after!
Problem is it would have to be done every 3000km...I have no issue with that but I have to admit the transmission seems to be a bit basic/rough on the 900...
 
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