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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

New rider, new Vulcan 2000 owner (used: 2005 LTD)

Soon after purchase I had electrical problems. Mechanic says replace stator and everything else electric related to charging and spark.

Have all parts EXCEPT the Pulsing Coil. Kawasaki has it backordered and can't say when it will be available. Therefore the bike sits and sits and I don't get to ride!

I would be grateful for any help with the following:

a) Where can I get one? It would have to be in stock, because Kawasaki can't fulfill orders right now
b) Is there a reliable alternative?
c) Since I'm not sure the one I am replacing is bad - is there a way to test it that I can tell to my mechanic?
 

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Hi all,

New rider, new Vulcan 2000 owner (used: 2005 LTD)

Soon after purchase I had electrical problems. Mechanic says replace stator and everything else electric related to charging and spark.

Have all parts EXCEPT the Pulsing Coil. Kawasaki has it backordered and can't say when it will be available. Therefore the bike sits and sits and I don't get to ride!

I would be grateful for any help with the following:

a) Where can I get one? It would have to be in stock, because Kawasaki can't fulfill orders right now
b) Is there a reliable alternative?
c) Since I'm not sure the one I am replacing is bad - is there a way to test it that I can tell to my mechanic?
Kawasaki 59026-0005 - COIL-PULSING : Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse
Maybe this will help:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Many thanks - I'll try.

I've called 5 or 6 places and they all say yes until I ask if they have it in stock. Then they check Kawasaki's site and find that it's backordered, but maybe Babbitts will have it...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just noticed the different suffix -0005 instead of -0002

Do you mean that this one should work as well? I'm totally unfamiliar with this stuff, so don't know myself...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks - I'm hoping for new - or an alternative -- since I can't tell if the used one on E-Bay is working or not, but as a last resort, that may have to do.
 

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Thanks - I'm hoping for new - or an alternative -- since I can't tell if the used one on E-Bay is working or not, but as a last resort, that may have to do.
The pickup can be tested for resistance. I don't have the parameters for that particular pickup, but it should be in the service manual.
 

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k2000;2749426 Mechanic says replace stator and everything else electric related to charging and spark. ?[/QUOTE said:
Wow. Sounds like your mechanic is using the shotgun method of troubleshooting.
Is that the best he can do?

What is the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First - thanks for the helpful posts!

The original problem was that the battery wasn't getting charged even at 50 mph. This was after some repairs that included new tires and a new clutch. The battery died while they were doing those and so they replaced it. I suspect the problem showed up then and they thought it was a dead battery... anyway I took it home with the new clutch and tires and...

About a week later the bike wouldn't start. I had to charge it and then jump it before I could ride it back to the shop...

At first the mechanic couldn't make it happen in the shop (I saw that the battery was getting 14.50 when the bike was revved...)

So I took it home and the next day I checked using a meter and it was at 10 -12 - not enough to charge.

So I took it back in - we decided, based on the reputation the V2000 has for electrical problems that the stator should be replaced.

My mechanic says he wants to replace the coil and one or two other parts as well -- since he's in there already and it's better than paying him to go back and do it if it is busted or breaks in the next few months.

It's a used bike and I'd like to take it for some long rides - spending a little money for new electrical parts in a critical area sounds great.

But - it's backordered and I can't find a new one anywhere.

I'm about ready to tell him to replace the stator and the other pieces and call it good...

It sure would be nice if there was a way to test the pulsing coil - but he seems to think that can't be done...?

He's a good guy - has a great reputation around my area so I think he's trying to do his best for me...

I'm a new rider and REALLY need the road therapy, so I'm hoping to find a way to get the thing running again - preferably without wondering if the coil is going to fail at some point in the near future and stop sending spark to the spark plugs...
 

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He may be a good guy, but replacing parts to cover potential future failures is poor practice.
Who knows if the replacements are any better?

What was done to the bike besides the clutch and tire?
Why was the clutch replaced?
How many miles on the bike?
How long have you owned?

Post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks for asking... answers below:

Who knows if the replacements are any better?
-- I guess the thought is that new would be better than the old parts... But no new part is available so that's moot now I guess. Also he points out that the labor cost for him to get into that area is enough to potentially justify replacing it all now with new parts... I don't disagree since I'd like to take it on some long trips and that would add some confidence that things aren't going to suddenly "go"...

What was done to the bike besides the clutch and tire?
-- A light bulb replacement and oil filter / oil change. I brought it in because of it blowing oil, but we established pretty quickly that I had overfilled the oil when replacing it.

Why was the clutch replaced?
-- It wasn't engaging well... sticky - hard to get into and out of gear. He said the plates were really worn.... It sure felt better with the new clutch. It was a rental in it's previous life so it seemed that the clutch would likely be well worn...

How many miles on the bike?
-- Approximately 36K when I bought it - probably 37K now.

How long have you owned?
-- Only about 3 months
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I don't have the bike, it's currently in the shop.

The problem is that it doesn't charge the battery... thus the diagnosis of stator replacement.
 

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The electrics on those bikes give little to no trouble, EXCEPT the reg/rect connection(s) which can corrode and burn giving you a no charge condition.
I would check those first.

Replacing good components can lead to introducing other problems, and then the REAL tail chasing begins.
I would replace nothing unless sound troubleshooting procedures point to a specific issue.
If you need any help, please ask any questions you may have.

Post back with what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks.

I went over my notes of things and realized I missed something.

He replaced the rectifiers with new ones as an attempt to fix the electric problem - before we decided to try replacing the stator (stator replacement has not yet been done, rectifiers have been installed and it was after this didn't solve the recharging problem that we decided to order the stator and replace several other parts including the coil)

However - you mention reg/rect -- is that the rectifiers? (Sorry - I do complex software all day, but very little experience with wrenching I'm afraid...)

If so - and given that they have been replaced, I assume it's still possible to have corrosion on the connectors?

How do I check? Can I put a electric meter on the reg/rect connector and tell?
 

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1. Reg/rect = rectifiers.
2. The connections will usually show obvious signs of corrosion or overheating if they are faulty. If they show even the slightest hint of the above, the problem must be rectified and not glossed over.
3. There are stator tests that can be performed before it is replaced to verify if it is bad, or not.

Post back if you need help with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks again.

I assume the connectors can be replaced?

Yes, I'd REALLY like to NOT pay for a new stator if I don't need one. I'd like to know how to test it.

I'll get with my mechanic on Monday and ask the questions and ask him to test the stator if you can give me the instructions. He may know how, but hasn't volunteered to do so, so I'd like to know what should be done.
 

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1. Unplug reg/rect(s) Your bike MAY have two.
2. Set meter to read AC volts.
3. At the plug coming from the stator, there should be 3 black wires.
4. Label one "A", one "B" and one "C".
5. Start engine and set to a fast idle.
6. Insert meter probes into plug to contact pins A to B and take reading, A to C and take reading and B to C and take reading.

Post back with 3 readings.

Be sure and ask any questions.
 
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