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Exhaust Mod

Easiest and Cheapest Mod I did to my Nomad. I also added the Valkyrie Exhaust Tips like Mattmo78, perfect combo for my taste. Heard the V&H setup, way to loud for me. Didn't notice a mpg loss but then again don't really track that anymore. Will have to take a look now.
 

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Yeah! Somebody used on of my suggestions.

Ogimaa, sounds great doesn't it? I'm like you, I didn't want the overly loud exhaust, due to long trip comforts, but I wanted to be able to hear it. I'm glad you like it. I sure do! :)
 

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De-Baffling my 08 NOMAD

I have the instructions in pdf format on my site if ya need 'em.

http://home.comcast.net/~addss/debaffle.pdf
I have read that some folks drill a couple of holes in their goatbladder after pulling the baffles. I have also read some have it re-mapped after the fact. Any advice would be great. This is my first post and I love this forum. Great pics and fantastic advice!

Chuck
 

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I don't have a lot of knowledge about intake and exhaust pressures. If the stock mufflers are debaffled will the bike idle and run rough? Thanks
No.....it won't run any different. Leave the bladder alone though. I would just start by drilling out the muffler silencers....then only if you REALLY want it louder, drill a few more holes in the baffles that are farther inside the pipes. I would be careful with that though. Good luck and know there are several that have removed the silencers and are very happy with the low sound that alone creates. Use the Gadget web site or do a search in here to get the step by step process.
 

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Prider, I have not had any problems with my bike after debaffling. Runs like a charm and sounds great!
 

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1600 Nomad Muffler debaffling

:)Thanks for the quick responce. I took our the sliencer or rear baffle. Sound great; well pleased with the sound. The bike seems a little more spirted. Maybe it is the "odd" cold weather we are having here in Central Florida. But no worries wait a few days and our weather here in Florida will change.
Should be in the low 80's next weeekend, possible hard freeze tonight.




:DP.S. I never learned how to use a snow shovel.
 

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Removal of Silencers and Goats Bladder

Last Spring I removed the silencers "tips" (about 10 inches) from the end of the mufflers. That really started the ball rolling to great sound. Next I went to a muffler shop and had them fabricate a y pipe to replace my Goat Bladder. I took it out and am in the process of putting the bike back together. Now when it melts and gets warm enough to ride.......

Chuck

Grand Forks, ND

Right next to the Canadian Border Cold
 

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Hey Guys,
Has anybody actually gutted the stock mufflers on a Nomad?I'm going to leave the Goat belly alone.I've already removed the small baffles but was curious how it would sound totally gutted.




Bill
It's still snowmobile season,can't wait for bike season....
 

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Hey Guys,
Has anybody actually gutted the stock mufflers on a Nomad?I'm going to leave the Goat belly alone.I've already removed the small baffles but was curious how it would sound totally gutted.




Bill
It's still snowmobile season,can't wait for bike season....

//// I am sure there are folks out there who have completely removed the inner baffles. Although I am not sure that completely removing them would be a good idea. Maybe try just taking a 1/2 inch drill bit and drilling our a path first. I am not convinced removing them would add to the sound...or give you that much more power. Removing the bladder did. Good luck with your project!

Chuck
 

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made the 1 3/4 hole saw cut and it wont come out like its welded in place any secrets will sure help
I had one side do the same thing. I kept at it by drilling it deeper and using a good pair of vice grips and twisting and pulling it out. Once in comes free you will be able to pull it out, not with out resistance, but it will come out. Try drilling some more and "roll" the drill a little to break the weld. Hope this helps!
 

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I have a 2000 1500fi Nomad; just like MN-Nomad(except a year older); I would like to attempt this process this weekend and from what I can tell on 1500 Nomads an 1 3/4 bi-metal holesaw is the preferred method? I have seen references to 2", read concerns about stuck baffles and other welds, but from what I can tell these were all 1600 problems. Any input appreciated, especially from MN-Nomad or anyone else with a fi 1500 in regards to removal process or problems with the fi system after de-baffle. Thanks!!
 

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I have a 2000 1500fi Nomad; just like MN-Nomad(except a year older); I would like to attempt this process this weekend and from what I can tell on 1500 Nomads an 1 3/4 bi-metal holesaw is the preferred method? I have seen references to 2", read concerns about stuck baffles and other welds, but from what I can tell these were all 1600 problems. Any input appreciated, especially from MN-Nomad or anyone else with a fi 1500 in regards to removal process or problems with the fi system after de-baffle. Thanks!!
Hey X. I mostly followed the instructions in post #4 of this thread. I admit that I did not make the wooden dowel thing as most do and report that it is a very good idea. It guides the lead drill bit on the hole saw but I just took it slow and easy till the saw bit in and was fine. Use WD40 or other lube and the actual cutting goes pretty quick. Make sure you get a brand new hole saw. Now pulling out the baffles can go either way. Ease of removal is all over the board here. One of mine just slid out, the other side refused to budge. I pulled, yanked, wiggled but it would not move! :mad: I had my son sit on the bike, hold both brakes and steady the bike. I put a foot on the back tire and using two long jaw vice grips, pulled while twisting with all I had and it finally came flying out. You may think the back end of the baffle is welded in but it is not and the carbon build-up can really make it stubborn. I have read where some guys have had success with tapping the baffle deeper inward a bit just to break loose the carbon bond then yanking it out. If you are at wits end with a baffle(s) the one thing that seems to always work is to go to your local auto parts store and rent a slide hammer. Many auto parts stores rent them for free. This tool seems to be the great equalizer and I have not yet read a post where it did not remolve a stuck baffle.

I have a couple pics and a video after the procedure HERE

Post back on how it goes for you. Everybody is different but this remains one of the best mods I have done on the bike. I love the sound.
 

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[/QUOTE]
Post back on how it goes for you. Everybody is different but this remains one of the best mods I have done on the bike. I love the sound.[/QUOTE]

What MN said.....keep at it. The other question you had was about if it would affect the FI or performance. I haven't noticed any difference in gas mileage or performance....just a great low sound. I drive an 08 FI 1600 and it is running great. The keys are as MN said, new saw, dowel stub for centering, good drill and patience. The entire procedure shouldn't take more than an hour total.....of course you know how those estimates go. It took me around 2 hours but it was because I bought a cheap hole saw and it dulled very quickly. Good luck man.

Chuck
 

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Well, stuck. I drilled but it won't move. I inserted a thin slide and is cut off all the way around for a good 6 inches or so. So it is just stuck. I guess is HAMMER TIME! (LOL!)

2lbs hammer enough or 5lbs?

Also, how long is the piece that comes out? Would you say about 12" long? I ask because I can feel a lip where the hammer would grab but it is that deep, making sure I am pulling the right thing.
 
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