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Discussion Starter #1
So let's start from the beginning.
I was headed home from work the other day cruising along at 70 MPH and the bike starts stuttering so I backed off to 65 MPH and it went away for about 15 seconds and then started stuttering again. Maybe another 15 seconds of head bobbing action and she cuts out completely. Had to trailer her home :mad: This was Monday, finally got a change to look at her last night and just for shits and giggles I tried starting her. Fired right up like nothing was wrong, ran for roughly 30 seconds and died. Tried starting her again and cranks but never starts and after a few turns there's a huge pop and fart.

I have taken the fuel pump out to see if the filter was dirty, it was all clean except for a dime size of crud it had collected. My goal today is to check the fuel pressure and see if the pump is the culprit.

If there is something I am overlooking please let me know. In south Texas our "winter" is still riding weather and I would like to be back on the road ASAP.
Any input is greatly appreciated!
 

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Check your battery connections. A loose terminal COULD cause this behaviour.
 

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wocka, wocka, wocka
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symptoms are sparodic. sounds like a fuel issue. injectors.
mite be trash in the line b4 or at injectors.
try draining lines backward from injectors. spray carb/injector cleaner directly into. see if injectors clear up.
Sfair will ventually pipe in with step by step method process of problem dissecting.. he usually waits till nuff us throw loose ideas out there.. we should learn to sit tite and wait for him to get here. bizzy am sure he is. poncho
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Finally got a chance to hook up a gauge to the fuel pump. Only produces 20 psi. So it looks like a new fuel pump is my Christmas present. Does anyone have a preferred place for parts? The best I've found it is $580 @ rocky Mountain ATV.
 

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Holy Cow !

Wow. $580. That's LOT of cheese. :eek:
What does a car one cost ?
Some of these bikes take items that are made for cars.

JJ
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For future riders experiencing the same problem I have solved this one!

So I did not want to spend the steep price tag of $580 for the whole assembly I did come across some vendors that produce the fuel pump only, thinking this was my problem I promptly ordered the $40 pump and in a few days from ordering it I swapped it out on the bike and reassembled everything and tried to start. Same thing, crank, crank, crank but would not start.

I used the pressure gauge and checked the fuel pump pressure. 22 PSI, hmm that was what the other pump was showing (~20 PSI). So I started going through my check list, fuel spray at the injectors, proper air flow, WAIT! the fuel pressure regulator could reduce fuel flow if not functioning properly, so I searched for a fuel pressure regulator online, no luck.

Finally I bit the bullet, but not as hard as I thought I was going to have to. I found the fuel pump assembly for $430 at powersportswarehouse.com/ 2-day shipping for free! The third day I was able to install the pump assembly and low and behold the V2K lives again!

Now a side note because she also died again shortly after she revived from the dead. Please check all wire connections when reassembling your scooter. I had gotten too rough with the spark plug wires and had just barely removed the from spark plug wire which to the naked eye was not out of place, but it sure did come off easy.

Cleaned the spark plug and now I am on my way!

I would also, in my long winded post, like to say thank you to Poncho Villa, RedDogDarren and Jammin'John for helping me diagnose this problem. Without y'all I would be sending a bill to a shop and admitting defeat.
 

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I'm thinking I would have to get a used one off eBay. Couldn't you take the regulator off the assembly and try to clean/free it up?
 

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Couldn't you take the regulator off the assembly and try to clean/free it up?
Warming up this thread a bit as I may have the same issue....

Last time,I cranked up the beast and let it work at higher idle. When rpm started going down...the engine stopped working. The impression was like someboty cut off the fuel hose or pushed the power button back to off position.
I gave it a try a couple of times more with no luck. Additionally doing things in my garage I was "hit"by a very loud pop from a muffler (I have loud pipes).

Months ago, riding on highways at more than 75 mph speed I faced FI indicator on my display and left yellow/orange light. Perhaps the fuel pressure was not appropriate??? After pulling over, turning the bike off and on the problem went away untill riding at higher speed again.

Yesterday, I checked error history doing self-diagnosis using the "magic" wire grounding method. The history shows following errors 13, 33, 41, 42, 62, 66, 94.
41 and 42 stand for injectors malfuncton, wiring open or short. The rest is more less about air temp or pressure or oxygen sensors. Will check all, but these 41 and 42 bother me the most.

Going back to fuel pump and its pats... according to Service manual - the pressure regulator, fuel filter and pump screen are built in and cannot be removed/cleaned.
However, it does not mean to me it is impossible - have any of you done something like this?

Any opinion is welcome.

Thanks,
GTR
 

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That's a lot of codes. I would clear them, ride and recheck. The O2 codes (33,94) could be a symptom or a cause, but I would start by looking at your wiring harness connections for a proper fit or corrosion.
 

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That's a lot of codes. I would clear them, ride and recheck. The O2 codes (33,94) could be a symptom or a cause, but I would start by looking at your wiring harness connections for a proper fit or corrosion.
Yes - will do that all some time soon except of riding because we are here in the middle of winter (+/- 0 Celcjus or 32 F). But first, I need to crank V2K up.
In two days I may have a chance to put the whole tank (including pump) from another VN2000 on my bike. It should be good test to see if any part of my pump are malfunctioning.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
GoodTimesRoller,
I was getting the very same loud pop after turning the engine over a few times but my bike was not throwing any codes. The FI light stayed off after the initial shut down.
You can check your fuel pressure, that is the only true way of determining if the pump assembly is your issue. But I am leaning toward what davidr said about you having an electrical issue, that is a LOT of codes!

As far as replacing parts of the fuel pump individually it was my understanding that you can purchase the fuel pump itself online but I could not fine any other parts by themselves.

Keep us updated on your findings.

davidr,
You are right, I could have gotten one off of eBay but I was hesitant to purchase something like that used off of eBay because how long would it really last? My new one came with a warranty but as far as the removing the regulator from the assembly I could not figure this out. I felt as if I was going to break it trying to pull it off the plastic reservoir the regulator was connected to.
 

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The FI light stayed off after the initial shut down. ........... But I am leaning toward what davidr said about you having an electrical issue, that is a LOT of codes!
My luck (I hope) is that I had the same thing - no FI light/digits after initial shut down. Doing self-diagnosis, being in "dealer mode 1" no erc codes were displayed meaning FI system does not have problems at the moment.

All codes dispalyed come from "dealer mode 2" - history. I expect they will help me in checking thing by thing. ECU notified these issues during my rides and previous owner ones.
Though, I agree - will check electrical connections before opening more complex stuff. The switching fuel tanks thing is easy as my mechanic just works on another V2K (same lamp and tank)

Will keep you posted guys - thanks for quick reactions and all suggestions. They are very welcome.
 

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Today - crank and.....A LOT of RUMBLE! :)

Well I spent another 2 hours on looking at every possible thing I could think of.
First, I did a fuel tank switch thing - with no results, ok then - my fuel and pump are ok.
Next, I started checking connectors and used digital meter to measure voltage or resistance - whenever service manual specifies such inspection steps - for:
- Injectors
- Crankshaft Sensor Lead Connector
- decompression solenoid lead connector, next to the battery
- decompression solenoid rod and connectors under outer camshaft cover

To me - all connectors looked good, but I secured them with special spray just in case. The voltages and resistance where also within ranges from service manual except of one: on decomp solenoid lead connector. Should be 3 - 3,7 ohm but I had more than 4 almost 5!
Therefore removed the outer camshaft cover and (without tank) pushed starter button and checked that the decomp rod is pulled in then goes back to previous state after releasing starter button (did it several times)

So - I do not know what I did wrong first time when the engine stopped working afer successful crank up.
Perhaps it was a spark issue then I flooded the engine big time trying to crank it up then I installed new plugs but the flooding was so big that it did not help a lot. In between - I played with idle screw
. So today after all steps I removed plugs (flooded) cleaned/dried them installed and tried to crank up - same case :(.
So I put my hand on throttle grip and turned the grip just a little bit and keeping in that position I tried to start the machine. I pressed the starter button and ...YES ...my friend is talking again.
I had to wait until all gas pumped before to engine/exhaust will be burnt so I smell now like a hell (need to take a shower before my wife comes home)
I noticed that if I release the throttle grip the engine will stop. So I looked at idle screw and I saw the reason (I guess I unscrewed it too much before) - so I adjusted it. Then I let my V2K working till I heard radiator fan working twice. This is to make sure the sparg plugs get correct temperature working for the first time. I had no chance to ride V2K as we have snow here at the moment

So - for now I am happy, but I will see if I can crank my friend up tomorrow or day after.
Thinking about this decompression solenoid lead connector - why it is more than 3,7 ohms while I saw the rod working correctly ...
 

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The solenoid can be out of range and still be working, but it may fail soon...or not.

I would clean the connection very well, retest and if it is still out of range you may want to get another one as a backup or just change it out as preventative maintenance.
 

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right davidr...

I will be double checking wires/connectors and perhaps getting "spare" solenoid.

I think I will also delete all erc codes from history, ride my V2K after winter, check for codes, delete them, connect PC3 again, ride and check for erc codes one more time.
 
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