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Discussion Starter #1
Hoping for some ideas... I’ve been trying to loosen the countershaft sprocket nut and can’t get it off for the life of me. I’ve tried a couple of different impact wrenches and a six foot fence post on a breaker bar with no success. I was hesitant to heat it for fear of damaging the oil seal, so I gave up and took it to a shop. They didn’t hesitate to heat it, but they still weren’t able to get it off. I’m thinking of cutting it to crack it off, but thought I’d reach out for any other ideas. I’m a afraid that it might have been cross threaded from the factory. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter.
 

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That's insane. It should not be that difficult to get off. By any chance did you try and turn it the other direction? Sometimes those nuts could be reverse threaded. Happened to me on a car I was working on. I was so sure I was turning it the proper way until I broke the nut clear off and discovered it went the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's insane. It should not be that difficult to get off. By any chance did you try and turn it the other direction? Sometimes those nuts could be reverse threaded. Happened to me on a car I was working on. I was so sure I was turning it the proper way until I broke the nut clear off and discovered it went the other way.
I did try alternating direction to try and work it loose, but I’m pretty sure it’s a right handed thread. I ordered a new nut so I’ll be able to make sure on the direction before I cut.
 

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did you remove the lock pin first?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
did you remove the lock pin first?
Lock pin? There’s a washer behind the bolt that bends over the nut to secure it that has to be completely flattened, but I’m not familiar with any lock pin on there. There’s a cotter pin on the rear axle, but nothing like that on the countershaft.
 

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...By any chance did you try and turn it the other direction? Sometimes those nuts could be reverse threaded....
I reckon it's a RH thread. I went and had a very uncomfortable lie down next to mine and spent a good 10min cleaning out the gunk at the same time.
The bent washer's splined to the shaft so if there is any part of the folded bit in the way its going to resist the nut from turning. See picture.
Get in there with a punch and lightly peen the washer to make sure its back flat and have another go turning it Anti C/W with a breaker bar after giving it some penetrant spray.
I hope for your sake you dont need to cut anything otherwise you might be up for a GB rebuild to replace the shaft.
 

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BTW
The sprockets on mine are well past their used by date. I've seen better teeth at a country fair side show!
I've got the gear ready to swap everything out at the next service but I hope I don't run into the same troubles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bent washer's splined to the shaft so if there is any part of the folded bit in the way its going to resist the nut from turning. See picture.
Get in there with a punch and lightly peen the washer to make sure its back flat and have another go turning it Anti C/W with a breaker bar after giving it some penetrant spray.
I hope for your sake you dont need to cut anything otherwise you might be up for a GB rebuild to replace the shaft.
Thanks. I’m pretty sure I’ve had it completely flattened out, but I’ll give it another go before I cut. I’m fairly confident that I can cut the nut with a small cutting wheel and split it without affecting the threads on the shaft. At this point, I’m more concerned that it may have cross threaded when it was installed. At any rate, the new nut’s on the way, so I’ll update when I find time to go at it another round.
 

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Hoping for some ideas... I’ve been trying to loosen the countershaft sprocket nut and can’t get it off for the life of me. I’ve tried a couple of different impact wrenches and a six foot fence post on a breaker bar with no success. I was hesitant to heat it for fear of damaging the oil seal, so I gave up and took it to a shop. They didn’t hesitate to heat it, but they still weren’t able to get it off. I’m thinking of cutting it to crack it off, but thought I’d reach out for any other ideas. I’m a afraid that it might have been cross threaded from the factory. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter.

https://www.southbayriders.com/forums/threads/14835/

http://versysventures.blogspot.com/2016/01/chain-replacement-part-2.html?m=1

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hoping for some ideas... I’ve been trying to loosen the countershaft sprocket nut and can’t get it off for the life of me. I’ve tried a couple of different impact wrenches and a six foot fence post on a breaker bar with no success. I was hesitant to heat it for fear of damaging the oil seal, so I gave up and took it to a shop. They didn’t hesitate to heat it, but they still weren’t able to get it off. I’m thinking of cutting it to crack it off, but thought I’d reach out for any other ideas. I’m a afraid that it might have been cross threaded from the factory. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter.
1. Apply no heat. If the shop jokers already did you may have more parts to replace.
2. Are you using an electric or air impact. An Air impact 3/4 will get it off.
3. Insert a screwdriver up through the chain at the bottom and through to the chain at the top to bar the sprocket under tension to keep it from moving as well as applying the rear brake to hold the chain steady. Any movement of the chain will destroy your impacts ability to loosen the nut. Get rid of all chain slack by moving your wheel all the way back and tighten axle nut to hold wheel in that position.
4. Do not hammer or beat on anything. Every blow you strike will be transmitted to the transmission bearings. NOT GOOD!

Apply moly grease liberally to the new nut threads and countershaft sprockets threads and to the face of the new lock washer where the nut touches upon reassembly.
Tighten new nut to 120 ft lbs (check your manual for proper torque).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I finally cut the nut and got the sprocket removed with no damage done to the output shaft. With the sprocket off and the chain disengaged, I was able to confirm that the speedometer does get signal from the rear wheel (‘17 with ABS), so the gear ratio will have no impact on the speed reading. The sensor at the transmission case must be for the gear indicator. I’ll post some speed/RPM information soon.
 

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So I finally cut the nut and got the sprocket removed with no damage done to the output shaft. With the sprocket off and the chain disengaged, I was able to confirm that the speedometer does get signal from the rear wheel (‘17 with ABS), so the gear ratio will have no impact on the speed reading. The sensor at the transmission case must be for the gear indicator. I’ll post some speed/RPM information soon.
I bet that speed sensor is only for the non-ABS models. It only gives an explanation and testing of the sensor in the service manual. It doesn’t allude to a different system for ABS equipped models. I have an ABS model, but I’ve never had the sprocket cover off to verify if that sensor is on my bike or not. I’m more inclined to say it is not. Too bad there are no Kawi Techs on this forum to verify any of this stuff for us. They are all probably on the HD forums, Lol! :)
 

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When I changed from a Stock rear 46T to a 43T It did change the speedo reading. It went form showing 4-5 mph above actual speed to being nuts on. This save me from buying a speedo calibration unit and makes the lower gears breath a little easier, less snatch.
 

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...I was able to confirm that the speedometer does get signal from the rear wheel (‘17 with ABS), so the gear ratio will have no impact on the speed reading. The sensor at the transmission case must be for the gear indicator. I’ll post some speed/RPM information soon.
Can I ask how you confirmed the speed is read from the rear wheel?
Kawasaki list the sensor on the front sprocket as a speed sensor and it's been mentioned that the Gear Position readout is calculated by the ECU from RPM and Speed values based on the gearbox ratios.

It would make more sense to use the ABS chopper as a speed sensor so gear ratio changes wouldn't be effected, but as mentioned before it would suit bikes without ABS.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just had a quick look at the parts diagram for a 2017 VS. Looks like they changed the description for the front sprocket sensor from Speed to Gear position.
So where is the speed sensor now?

Edit:
Just had a further look. Found it.
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/2017/vulcan-s-en650chf/rear-brake
I’d assumed that was just the ABS sensor, but apparently it’s providing wheel speed too. I had to stop before putting it all back together, but I’m looking forward to seeing what this does for my highway cruising RPMs. I’m usually pulling between 6k and 6200. I’d love to get that in the mid 5s.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can I ask how you confirmed the speed is read from the rear wheel?
Kawasaki list the sensor on the front sprocket as a speed sensor and it's been mentioned that the Gear Position readout is calculated by the ECU from RPM and Speed values based on the gearbox ratios.

With the chain off the sprockets, I ran it in first gear and saw that there was no speed reading. Then I manually spun the rear wheel and got a reading. Prior to the ‘17, there’s a speed sensor over the sprocket that seems to read the square surface on the nut. Mine doesn’t have this sensor. It has a sensor that attaches to the transmission housing, but that seems to be the gear indicator. What I don’t know is if they’re still using the gear sensor at the sprocket for non abs models or if they have a rear wheel sensor as well.
 

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I can confirm my 2015 with ABS does have the speed sensor at the front sprocket shaft. (See pic)
It seems that prior to 2017 models (that now include an integrated GPI), all ABS & non-ABS models have the speed sensor at the front shaft (No tone rings or sensors on front or rear of non-ABS models). 2017-up models use the rear wheel ABS sensor and tone ring for speed. The non-ABS 2017-up models have a rear wheel tone ring and speed sensor, but no front wheel tone ring/speed sensor (obvs).
Instead of trying for another money grab, Kawasaki should have used the rear speed sensor/tone ring set up on all bikes, starting with the first 2015 model and had the integrated gear position indicator from the beginning. They always touted the KVS as a beginners/starter bike, but they weren’t going to include a gear indicator, which most every bike has now. Stupid from the beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I can confirm my 2015 with ABS does have the speed sensor at the front sprocket shaft. (See pic)
It seems that prior to 2017 models (that now include an integrated GPI), all ABS & non-ABS models have the speed sensor at the front shaft (No tone rings or sensors on front or rear of non-ABS models). 2017-up models use the rear wheel ABS sensor and tone ring for speed. The non-ABS 2017-up models have a rear wheel tone ring and speed sensor, but no front wheel tone ring/speed sensor (obvs).
Instead of trying for another money grab, Kawasaki should have used the rear speed sensor/tone ring set up on all bikes, starting with the first 2015 model and had the integrated gear position indicator from the beginning. They always touted the KVS as a beginners/starter bike, but they weren’t going to include a gear indicator, which most every bike has now. Stupid from the beginning.
Great info. Would be awesome if Kawasaki updated their service manual.
 

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Great info. Would be awesome if Kawasaki updated their service manual.
There are actually 2 service manuals available for the Vulcan S:
2015-2016 Service Manual, part no.
99924-1491-02
2017-2019 Service Manual, part no.
99924-1515-03
The back cover of the manual will show models and years the manual covers.
So, I’d say it’s updated in the 2017-2019 manuals? I only have the 2015 manual, so I can’t verify it.
 
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