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2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT

I found coolant in my air intake box, was wondering if such a thing could happen and what the cause/cure for it is. Atleast I think it was coolant, as I did clean the air filter with the K&N cleaning kit a few days prior along with a radiator flush. I noticed the fluid during an external cleaning after a good long ride.

I want to make sure I'm not missing anything critical here as I am planning an epic tour this upcoming riding season.

Being that this bike is 13 years old, is there anything critical that I need to replace prior to making such a journey? This bike is all OEM outside of a saddlemen seat, me de-baffling the pipes, new tires and slapping on a K&N air-filter. I also got a Cobra Fi2000r, hoping that will fix/lessen my exhaust from smelling like straight up gas.

Thanks~!

~Bacon~
 

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It could be oil in the filter housing, as the PVC gas goes thru there. Hard to see how coolant could get in there, unless something were seriously wrong.
 

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2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It could be oil in the filter housing, as the PVC gas goes thru there. Hard to see how coolant could get in there, unless something were seriously wrong.
Let's say it is oil in the Filter Housing, what would cause that? Is there something I should check or replace?

I apologize as I'm not sure what questions I should ask. I reckon I will start with the back-story on this bike. This Vulcan-9 was garage kept but sat for a long period of time as the previous owner had passed away. The seller mentioned that the bike had sat there for 2 years.

The bike had 13,000 miles, tires where dry rotted, but the bike fired up without issue. For the price, I caved and took on the gamble, I looked at it as a good opportunity to learn how to work on and maintain a motorcycle.

These are the steps I've done (with the help of the Manual):
1> Oil change and new K&N air filter (original air filter literally turned into plastic, and the housing had a nest in it.)
  • After the oil change I added Sea Foam to the block and ran the bike around the block (kinda dumb as I was riding on dry-rotted tires) Listened to the motor and noticed that it was ticking very, very, loudly.
2> Replaced Valve Spacers/Shims (Nerve Racking experience being a newbie and all with bikes, felt like I was doing open heart surgery, but it did lesson the maddening ticking noise) Also had to cut the fuel line a bit due to the connecting part being dry rotted, but the rest of the line looked good.
3> Slapped on Michelin Commander II tires
4> Went for a street ride and the temp warning light popped on. Performed a complete radiator flush, had some serious scaling buildup, flushed it until fluids ran clear, filed it back up and had no cooling issues since.
5> performed an other oil change
6> Did a complete debaffle. (bike sounded like a two wheeled sewing machine prior to the debaffle, so happy I did it too, the deer run away from me now rather then towards me)
  • EDIT: I should note that after debaffling my bike my exhaust smells like straight up gas. I even got kicked to the back of the motorcycle group ride because I was getting everyone high on my gas fumes :ROFLMAO: I am hoping the FMS I purchased will fix this
7> Performed the marble mod to stop the frequent back-firing
8> LED headlight and red LED Flashing brake light

I racked 7,000 miles on it before winterizing it.

When the weather warms up, I plan to purchase and install the following:
1> Cobra Fi2000r (purchased)
2> Baron Front Pulley (Is the Baron rear Pulley needed? I cant find much info on it, read many posts saying the front pulley resolves the high RPM issue at 70+MPH)
3> Baron Kickback Risers (upper back pain is killing me on rides exceeding 2 hours, hope I dont need to replace the break and clutch line for this)
4> Memphis Lowers
5> Highway bars w/ foot pegs

Being that I am planning to take a long tour on my Vulcan-9, I want to make sure I have all the critical components covered due to the age of the bike, and being that all components are OEM, I am trying to identify what I need to replace (if anything) for the sake of safety and longevity of the bikes riding life.
 

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PVC (positive crankcase ventilation) is where blow by gases are vented. It discharges into the air filter. Usually a small amount of oil will get blown into the air filter housing (though there is some disagreement on this). For me this is normal. There is about a thimble sized plastic cup at the bottom back of the air filter housing designed to catch this small amount of oil. I mean, we are talking about a thimble full here. Cylinder head ticking and more blow by oil can happen if you over fill with oil. Cylinder head ticking can happen if overfilled by crankshaft splashing and foaming up the oil, getting bubbles in the oil flow to the heads.
 

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2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thank you for info~!

Would you (or anyone else) know of a good replacement fuel line w/ clips?

Is a fuel filter worth getting? Currently mine is just a straight connection (looks like it anyways)

Are Crank Case Breathers beneficial to the Vulcan-9?

Are Oil Catch Can's beneficial to the Vulcan-9?
 

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2007 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic LT
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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry to do a bump, haven't seen a reply to my 'many' questions that I am hoping to find answers too.

I do know that the Vulcan engine can only be tweaked so much due to the way its designed, so i don't want to buy parts that have no real benefit)

UPDATE:
I installed the Cobra Fi2000r on my bike a few days ago and set it to 2-2-1 and holy mackerel does it drive like a totally new bike! This was by far the best purchase I have ever made!

Whats changed?:
Gas smell of exhaust is gone
acceleration is smooth as silk! (no abrupt pull on acceleration)
The bike runs the way a bike should!

I've tried other settings and so far 2-2-1 is by far the best setting.
 

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Not sure on a replacement fuel line. Although expensive a new OEM might be the best way to go. For a number of years the coolant connections on the 9 where often not torqued correctly, just the opposite of the oil filter. I always check the coolant connections when I check valve clearances per 15k miles or less, or change coolant (every 2yrs. for me). I'm with "jbiggers" if you stay closer to the lower of high/low oil level marks the blow by is greatly reduced. You should see an improvement if you open up the air box a little, I know I did. But I also am running 2-1 pipes. Good Luck Ride safe
 
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