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Connecting Kewig Motorcycle Auxiliary LED Light to "ACC"

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#41 ·
#42 ·
WitsEnd said:
Ah that helps! @Sabre-t suggested one so I have it ordered.. I just didn't know what I was supposedly to be using it for when I got it attached. So it tells me a number of course... but what does the number mean? Like is it going to stay somewhere around 12V if shit's working right? And if not I'll see it gradually decrease?
Click to expand...
Ideally you'd like to see 13V or higher while engine is running. At idle it's possible it could be lower with lights on but should pick up with RPMs. 14-14.5 would be about ideal but a bit higher or lower still works.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Six Shooter said:
Here's what I used, switchable between white driving lights and yellow fog lights. They worked perfectly- even with my cell phone charging at the same time- And they are bright! Same lights JadeHawk is using I believe.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS : Automotive

Buy CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

It says 60 watts and as I said the bike had no trouble powering them.
Click to expand...

Hi @Six Shooter

The wiring on your aux lights matches the ones I'm installing...so Q: the bare yellow wire should get crimped with a 4"mm / 0.157" bullet MALE connetor correct? And no wire will go into the 2nd of the acc spare.
 
#44 ·
WitsEnd said:
Hi @Six Shooter

The wiring on your aux lights matches the ones I'm installing...so Q: the bare yellow wire should get crimped with a 4"mm / 0.157" bullet MALE connetor correct? And no wire will go into the 2nd of the acc spare.
Click to expand...
Hi Wits. I installed my lights to the battery, and I only had a hot & ground to install to the battery- No yellow wire. There was a yellow wire to each bulb, but the wire only travelled to the switch, which was an off/yellow/white combo switch. And I didn't connect any wires at the switch, everything was pre-connected. You might see if @Jadehawk has anything to add, because he used a different switch than the factory switch I used that came with the kit.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Six Shooter said:
Hi Wits. I installed my lights to the battery, and I only had a hot & ground to install to the battery- No yellow wire. There was a yellow wire to each bulb, but the wire only travelled to the switch, which was an off/yellow/white combo switch. And I didn't connect any wires at the switch, everything was pre-connected. You might see if @Jadehawk has anything to add, because he used a different switch than the factory switch I used that came with the kit.
Click to expand...

Ah.. ok. This is why I thought your light was the same -- in the picture taken from the link you posted is shows a yellow wire. see below

On my light below that -- it shows a yellow wire also -- but not going to any switch.



Image



The light I bought that started this thread (and now bought again :ROFLMAO:) @Sabre-t mentions that he thought it'd go into the positive side of the Vulcn's spare ACC connector--which then it means I need to get a male 4" bullet connector and crimp that on in order to connect it proper.

But so I guess I was just asking you since it seemed by that pic yours was the same wiring. I guess not. hahah.


Image
 
#46 · (Edited)
WitsEnd said:
Ah.. ok. This is why I thought your light was the same -- in the picture taken from the link you posted is shows a yellow wire. see below

On my light below that -- it shows a yellow wire also -- but not going to any switch.



View attachment 265812


The light I bought that started this thread (and now bought again :ROFLMAO:) @Sabre-t mentions that he thought it'd go into the positive side of the Vulcn's spare ACC connector--which then it means I need to get a male 4" bullet connector and crimp that on in order to connect it proper.

But so I guess I was just asking you since it seemed by that pic yours was the same wiring. I guess not. hahah.


View attachment 265813
Click to expand...
Yeah sorry, my wiring harness, with the relay & switch, was all complete, with just a pos & grd to connect to the battery. You can see in this pic of my wiring harness the red & black wires to go to the battery:

Image


You can see my switch & relay pre-connected. It was nice having a plug & play wiring harness, it made installation very simple. The switch is made to bolt on to the controls, which I did with one of the control housing bolts.
Link to my lights:

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS : Automotive

Buy CO LIGHT Motorcycle LED Fog Lights 60W 18000LM Dual Color Auxiliary Driving Lights with Wire Harness Kit, 3 Modes Amber White Light Universal Fit for Motorcycle Motorbike Dirt Bike ATV UTV, 2PCS: Light Bars - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
Discussion starter · #47 · (Edited)
Well... I guess we'll see when I test which wire is the positive on the Vulans spare ACC, crimp a bullet connector on the yellow and stick that into it.

God I hope I don't fry the heck out of things... LIKE. 😳😬 My motorcycle. But it does say in the pic to connect to the ACC. I just am wary.

I might just take it to an auto-electric guy but they're so expensive. The whole I idea of going this route was to get a brighter light than the OEM lightbar offers while and saving money.
 
#48 ·
WitsEnd said:
Well... I guess we'll see when I test which wire is the positive on the Vulans spare ACC, crimp a bullet connector on the yellow and stick that into it.

God I hope I don't fry the heck out of things... LIKE. 😳😬 My dang motorcycle.

This is become an exercise in insanity. I might just take it to an auto-electric guy but they're so bloody expensive. The whole I idea of going this route was to get a brighter light than the OEM lightbar offers AND and saving money.

Amazon is just gonna love me if I have to return the same light -- twice
Click to expand...
Could you hook up the red & yellow wires to pos battery and the black wire to ground? That would basically give you what I have- an always powered setup, that is only shut off by the switch. The yellow wire on yours says on the picture it is the accessory wire, which I have no idea why you would need! It's not like a car stereo, that needs the acc power to keep the clock running when the car is off, it's just lights!
 
#50 ·
I've been following this thread and am going to throw in my 2¢ worth... Looking at the wiring diagram in the service manual (available on the main page of this forum, pinned near the top), there's 2 accessory connection points (2 pairs of connectors located behind the headlight), one of which is labelled 'fog lights' and intended for the oem light bar. One of these connector wires is labelled bk/y (black/yellow) and goes to a joint connector, where a black wire exits and eventually goes to ground on the frame. The other connector wire is labelled w/bl (white/blue) and goes through the accessory relay and then onward to the 30A main fuse. I presume this wire therefore provides the power.
Personally, I would cut off the battery terminal connectors on the wires of the lights you want to connect (your first choice at the beginning of this thread). Then connect the black wire to the connector behind the headlight having the bk/y wire (for ground), and connect both the red and yellow wires from the light unit to the white/blue connector on the bike, to provide power to the lights (via the red wire) and to the switch for the light unit (via the yellow wire). My only caveat would be the size or guage of the wire... will it fit in the connectors? And is the bike wiring at that point sufficient to handle the load of the lights? I'm imagining yes, but don't know much officially about electrics, just what I've picked up from installing small LEDs on my KVS.
 
#52 ·
amie-j said:
... My only caveat would be the size or guage of the wire... will it fit in the connectors? And is the bike wiring at that point sufficient to handle the load of the lights? I'm imagining yes, but don't know much officially about electrics, just what I've picked up from installing small LEDs on my KVS.
Click to expand...
The point of the light kit going direct to the battery with it's own fused positive and ground is so you don't have to concern yourself about any of that.
 
#53 · (Edited)
@WitsEnd

Since you've already installed the OEM accessory relay why would you not use the acc lead to feed the yellow wire?

The only reason is if you would for some reason want to turn on the lights with the key switch off. Sounds sorta useful, right? Until someone switches them on when you're not around and runs the battery dead. Or, in some way, you manage to leave them on by accident and run the battery dead.

Wire up the lights battery power & ground and acc yellow as intended and move on.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
@amie-j appreciate all that took --but if it comes to cutting factory wires I'm in over my head and def more than I'd want to be (unless it was urgent and no other options) At that point I'd take it to a professional anyways just bc I know my limits, at least right now.

I did order the professional serv. manual so that'll help my KVS education.

I'll probably take pictures and post them here with marks ups like "this to this?" with arrows pointing, before I actually attach anything and send power through.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
@amie-j I just discovered the service manual actual LINK you mentioned. Thanks! I saw the owner's manual in that thread before but missed the actual service manual link.

99924-1491-01_EN650AF_BF.pdf

drive.google.com drive.google.com

I should get my physical copy today --but it's great to have this link now too in case I'm not at home and need questions answered. What a gold mine of information... I'm the kind that'll pour over it every night before bed.

Have a great week peeps!
 
Discussion starter · #57 · (Edited)
Well -- that was about as easy wiring harness hook up as I ever did.... not that I ever did any before this.

Mounted the lights on the crash bar, stuck neg to neg, pos to pos, crimp the bullet connector and stick it in the positive of the ACC spare, feed and zip tie the wires and VIOLA! Let there be light. No blown fuses, BRIGHT AF!!! Got fog, got ER strobe. Everything I wanted. These lights are extremely well made.

Hopefully no drained battery. Once I get the DC adapter I'll plug that in and add the Voltmeter.
Thank you gents!

If anyone needs some Male/Female 4mm bullet connectors with heat shrink sleeves lmk. I only bought about billion of them by mistake. :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
#58 ·
Hey guys.
I've never posted on here before but couldn't help but see the issue you ran into during your light set up.

I have owned my KVS since December of 2021 and it's the 2022 model. I attempted to use the OEM aux light connection but wasn't aware why it never had power. So being The stubborn type I just added a handlebar mounted light switch and wired my LED fog lights in with that.

I wired the negative lead to the negative of my battery, and for the positive lead I went from the battery to the switch, then switch to positive lead of my LED. It works great and the only down side I have is I was too impatient to find a positive lead powered by acc only to tap into so my lights can be switched on even without a key. But they work great. I can control when I need them, and I have not had any battery drain issues , minus when I left them on over night once 😆

I do have an LED upgraded headlight, and my tail tidy I made myself is all LED as well. I work at a place that rhymes with Shmicle Shmear so everything I used for my lights was purchased there. Everything was either Speed Metal brand or the Trackside brand so I wasn't breaking the bank.

Hope this helped even just a little bit.

-Marc
 
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WitsEnd
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