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Discussion Starter #1
A buddy picked up a 99 Vulcan 1500 for cheap. It had been disassembled by the previous owner due to the oil gear failure. He only pulled the side cover and clutch pack and saw what was wrong and stopped there. We bought the JOG and installed it without any issues. Played with the puzzle for a little bit trying to figure out where all of the bolts and such went, but once getting it all back together the clutch won't fully disengage. At first it would kill the engine when you put it in gear, but it has loosened up to the point that it will now idle, but it's under a load and it's very difficult to put it in neutral without shutting it off. We haven't ridden it but about 10 miles in all, so I'm thinking maybe the clutch disks are just somewhat dry, but it could be something missing. We did end up with a large coil spring left over, but it could be from something else too. It's about 4 inches long and about 1-1/2" diameter and I can't find anywhere it might go. The clutch does disengage quickly as you pull the lever, and there is plenty of travel once it releases so I don't think it is air in the lines. It's more like the disks are just dragging. Any idea's what might be the problem, and where this extra spring might be from?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you, that does give me a pretty good break down. I didn't see this spare spring anywhere in that so hopefully that means it goes somewhere else. I also noticed the push rod appears to be on the wrong side of things in the drawing since it goes on after the nut goes on. I'm not seeing anything else unusual, and I didn't disassemble the clutch pack when I removed it, just took the nut off, then pulled the whole assembly off, repaired the gear and re-installed the pack as a whole so I don't think anything got out of order.

I did bleed the line, but didn't flush it. I can try that, but I don't think that is it. Basically I pull the clutch lever in about an inch and the clutch releases mostly, and then the next 3-4 inches of lever pull does nothing, although the feel is what it should be. As I let the lever out, the first 3-4 inches do not change anything, but the last inch or so engages the clutch smoothly. Basically the lever feel, and the point at which it engages and releases feels correct as well. It's just as if the disks never completely release, although the more we ride it the better it is getting. I now can "sometimes" get it back to neutral without shutting it off, but it wasn't easy.
 

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Whether or not this is the problem you really should flush all of the fluid for both the clutch and the brakes. The fluid will absorb water over time (though this is probably less a problem with the clutch versus brakes) and often will build up crud in the lines.
 

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Whether or not this is the problem you really should flush all of the fluid for both the clutch and the brakes. The fluid will absorb water over time (though this is probably less a problem with the clutch versus brakes) and often will build up crud in the lines.
I definitely agree and that is in the plans. The inital goal was to get it running to verify if there was any more serious issues that needed addressed. Once we know all is good, it will get a full fluids change as well as any other maint items before it's put on the street. I'll start with clutch fluid and go from there.
 

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Are you sure when you put the clutch back together that you put the washers back in correctly? When you bought the JOG, did you also buy the spring pack that Bob sells with it? The washers are cupped, so if you didn't put them back right you'll have a very weak clutch, ask me how I know this...LOL. I actually had to call Bob and he schooled me real good. The man is a wealth of knowledge. Do not be afraid to contact him.
 

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I have to ask why this would be?
I was making the assumption that the slave cylinder is outside the case and would be lower than the engine oil temp and hence lower than the water boiling point.

But looking at it and thinking about it further this is probably a bad assumption. Convection from the case or even from the clutch itself could raise the temp above that point. Also I was assuming close to sea level pressure/boiling temp.

In retrospect a bad comment on my part.

/ For the newbies - water can work as a hydraulic fluid until it causes corrosion and wear on the seals. But steam cannot. Which is why brakes with old fluid can suddenly fail. They'll work fine until they get hot, then nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you sure when you put the clutch back together that you put the washers back in correctly? When you bought the JOG, did you also buy the spring pack that Bob sells with it? The washers are cupped, so if you didn't put them back right you'll have a very weak clutch, ask me how I know this...LOL. I actually had to call Bob and he schooled me real good. The man is a wealth of knowledge. Do not be afraid to contact him.
Yes the springs on in properly as I never fully disassembled the clutch pack and springs. Just removed the nut, pull the pack and set in on the bench. Made the changes and updates as required, then re-installed. I did not buy the new springs with the JOG, but may if these become weak. As it is now, the clutch does not slip and grabs very strong so I think I'm good there, it just never releases all of the way. It seemed to be getting better, but its still dragging some. I may contact Bob and chat with him a little bit if I don't figure it out. I need to take a little time and tinker with it some more once I get my other projects out of the way too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, after a longer ride, about 50ish miles we discovered the clutch does slip a little in 5th on the open highway. 1st - 4th all seem tight, but once good and warmed up, if you roll on the throttle at about 65mph it will start to slip a little. Looks like new springs and such are going to be ordered for it. It still seems odd that it won't release all of the way, but it's not too bad now. We'll look at that as well when we are back into it again.
 

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At lower gears/speeds it doesn't take much power to accelerate a given rate. If at a given power setting there is some slippage you won't notice it because the vehicle will still accelerate because the power necessary to maintain a certain speed is so low. In the higher gears you lose the torqe conversion from the reduction gearing and you require more power just to maintain speed due to the higher air resistance. And so the slipping becomes more obvious.
 

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I replaced the gear on my wifes 97 1500 about 2 years ago. I used the spring pack from Bob, it worked well, then the gear failed at about 3k miles. I'm sure it was my fault, I probably didn't clean all of the oil out the the threads on the keeper screw holes. Anyway, the screws backed out and the gear loosened causing it to get chewed up. I had to replace the gear again this summer. Going over everything twice, making sure all dirt and oil were removed by soaking and scrubbing everything in Acetone. When I put it all back together, same as You, (I pulled it as one whole unit.) One of the spring washers slipped and became pinched and caused the clutch lever to become very soft. Taking it apart again, The spring slipped down and when the nut was tightened caused it to flatten out. I had to take that washer and bend it back into shape and re-curve it. Very time consuming but the Kaw dealer wanted $50 for a new washer. They're the only game around this area so they charge what they want. Anyway, I know it's a PIA to take it all apart again but it's worth a look if you're sure your master is doing it's job.
 
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