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Discussion Starter #1
Dudes,
Needing more help. I got on my bike this morning started it backed it out of the barn and the clutch is rock hard. It was still dark so I haven;t been able to do any inspection yet. Rode Saturday and the operation was flawless. It's like it doesn't have any travel at all. Any ideas? I will chcek fluid levels when I get off but have a feeling something worse is happening.
 

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Have you every flushed the system? Sounds like may be dirt in the cylinder clogging a port. Would also lube the pivot point where the lever is attached. What year is it and how long have you had it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a 2010 classic with 18K on it. I bought it new (held over) 2 years ago.
last fall I was going to get a 15K service with all the vaccuming and replaceing the fluids and they said I was kinda' wasting money. The fluids were clear and full. I suppose pretty much setting through the winter may change things??
 

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Similar thing happened to mine. Took the slave cylinder out and it was full of grit and dirt. Cleaned it all out, re-lubed it with hydraulic specific grease and it's fine now. I'm not saying yours will be the same but I'd start there as it's easy.
 

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Similar thing happened to mine. Took the slave cylinder out and it was full of grit and dirt. Cleaned it all out, re-lubed it with hydraulic specific grease and it's fine now. I'm not saying yours will be the same but I'd start there as it's easy.
Ya, what he said. The slave cylinder piston could be gummed up and sticking. If you're not sure about removing it just shoot me a personal message and I'll send you the instructions from my service manual. I've removed mine and it's very simple.
 
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I've had the same thing happen after a long trip on unsealed roads recently. A short trip around town the next day saw me stall the bike in first gear to stop it, after a car pulled out of a park in front of me and the clutch lever wouldn't budge. It's a poor design when all that dirt & grit gets thrown at and sticks to the clutch pushrod - it doesn't take much to jam it.

I had to remove the front pulley cover, pull the rod, and clean it all up. Fixed the problem immediately. Don't leave any grease on the exposed portion of the rod when you re-assemble, or grit will stick to it again.
 

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I had a crazy clutch day last fall.

Rode the Voyager to work 25 miles surface and interstate. No problems.
That afternoon start the bike pull in the clutch hit the shifter to 1st bike lurches forward hit the breaks bike dies. Round 2 same thing. Get off look everything over round 3 same thing. Basically direct drive no clutch.

Not my 1st rodeo, the bike got me here, it is still running, no ridiculous noises coming out of it, it will get me home.

In gear start. Not as hard as it sounds. All of my 90's boats were set up this way, illegal as hell, but if you were pushing some hp a good way to save wear on gears in the lower unit.

I was able to get the bike home with only 3 in gear starts. Up shifts are easy without a clutch just pre-load and let off on the gas. Down shifts are a little more complicated but doable.

After getting the bike home before doing anything I bled the master cylinder.
1st round flat as a pancake
2nd round some pressure
3rd round full pressure.

So what happened on that day while I was at work to make the clutch slave cylinder fail? I have no clue, but I do have break fluid a tube and a wrench to fit the bleeder valve in my saddle bag as we speak.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When I got home it pulled the clutch lever and it actually moved about 1/2 way. Released and pulled it again and it was fine. I actually rode it a bit just to be sure. I will be taking it to the shop today. I'll let you know what the issue is.
I live on about a 1/2 mile of bad gravel and its probably crudded up.
Will advise.
Thanks everybody,
Jimmy D
 

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Easy to check yourself... Take the pulley outer cover off, tie in the clutch lever & take the clutch slave assembly off, take the pulley inner cover off, pull the clutch pushrod out, wipe all the gunk off it... reverse the procedure.

Sounds like you've had the same problem I did. It'll work mostly, but get jammed when you least want it to.
 

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Easy to check yourself... Take the pulley outer cover off, tie in the clutch lever & take the clutch slave assembly off, take the pulley inner cover off, pull the clutch pushrod out, wipe all the gunk off it... reverse the procedure.

Sounds like you've had the same problem I did. It'll work mostly, but get jammed when you least want it to.

No need to tie the clutch lever in.

Just pull the slave cylinder and clean all the crud out.
 

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Yes, like others have said, very easy to check yourself. I think it took me like 20 mins start to finish.....and free too
 

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What do you guys recommend lubing the slave with?
 

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What do you guys recommend lubing the slave with?
I just wiped it clean and didn't lube it with anything.....didn't want gunk sticking to it again. The service manual says this if you take it right out tho:
 

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OK . . .I had this issue, and cleaned out the bunch of gunk in there . . . But after putting it all back together, I have no clutch pressure . . . I'm thinking air in the clutch line, and need to bleed it and change the fluid . . . Does this sound right or did I really screw something up?
 

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OK . . .I had this issue, and cleaned out the bunch of gunk in there . . . But after putting it all back together, I have no clutch pressure . . . I'm thinking air in the clutch line, and need to bleed it and change the fluid . . . Does this sound right or did I really screw something up?
Did you loosen any hydraulic lines when you removed the slave cylinder? I didn't touch any lines, just unbolted the cylinder, pulled it back, cleaned it then re-installed. I didn't have any issues.
 

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Calender push rod housing gets gunk in it.

clutch.jpg
 

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Did you loosen any hydraulic lines when you removed the slave cylinder? I didn't touch any lines, just unbolted the cylinder, pulled it back, cleaned it then re-installed. I didn't have any issues.
Yeah . . .following the instructions in the Service Manual, I undid the Banjo Bolt . . . Afterwards I realized it was not needed to clean the gunk out . . . I think I now need to do a full (and needed) fluid change to get the air out and recharge the clutch . . . Right??
 

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Fresh fluid and bleeding should get your clutch back. When I changed the fluid in mine I didnt close the bleeder when I pumped the vaccum back up once it dropped and had no clutch action. Rebled closing bleeder when pumping up vaccum and has been fine since.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Yeah . . .following the instructions in the Service Manual, I undid the Banjo Bolt . . . Afterwards I realized it was not needed to clean the gunk out . . . I think I now need to do a full (and needed) fluid change to get the air out and recharge the clutch . . . Right??
When you bleed the air out it works pretty good to take the hydraulic master cylinder cover off, then soak up the fluid that's in there with paper towel. I then use a small oil can or an oil syringe with a hose on it attached to the bleeder and pump oil in from the bottom up to the master cylinder. This may not be necessary with the clutch, but it sure works good to bleed and replace the front brake fluid. I don't know why but I always have better luck doing it that way....just my own procedure :)
 

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I will give it a shot . . . Got the service manual, but any other tips or tricks for a first time DIY Clutch fluid replacement are appreciated!
 
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