Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My clutch leer has been rattling for a few months now. Took it to the local dealer and they tightened up the clutch cable but it did t last long. What could be causing this and is there a more permanent solution. It drives me nuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
There should be the width of a quarter play on your clutch cable to ensure that clutch is fully engaged. Mine was tight one day, the same day I decided to join a parade, I didn't have a clutch at the end of the parade. HEAD my warning.

You can see the lock knob and the knob on the cable at the handle, loosen the big lock knob, adjust the smaller knob till you have 2-3mm OR a Quarter's (25 cent pieces) thickness of gap between the handle and mount and ride.

Again, if it doesn't have that gap there you WILL be replacing your clutch sooner then later. If the dealer took all the slack out of the cable they were hoping you wouldn't find out. They SHOULD have explained this too you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok your answer has me a little confused. Where Gould the gap be and are you saying that the clutch could be to tight. If it's to tight then why is the clutch lever so loose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Here a pic of the knobs now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Ok I see. Well it does have some play but that gap wouldn't be there constantly correct because there is nothing there to hold that gap open right? Also my clutch lever rattle is an up and down rattle if that makes sense. I can move the lever up and down at least a 1/4 inch and it rattles when I am going over 20mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
976 Posts
Ok, well if that's the problem check to see that the bolt is solid and if it IS then you might look into getting some shims to place in the gap there to stop the rattling. You can buy thin plastic washers at the hardware store or Lowe's or make your own out plastic. Sounds like you go the wide tolerance flange and the narrow tolerance handle on your bike.

I don't see any shims in THIS[\url] parts diagram at Cheap Cycle Parts. [url=http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/48/Year/2007/ModelID/3841/Model/Vulcan_900_Classic_LT/GroupID/118201/Group/Handlebar]THIS diagram from RonAyers is a little easier to read.

By the way, if you zoom in on the handlebar portion of the Ron Ayers photo (only because it's clearer) you'll see that the clutch handle has a little tab on it that sticks down. It's about a half inch wide and is right above the 92210 part label. That is on the handle to hit the clutch switch (item 27010). That sucker gets unplugged all the time and folks can't start their motorcycles except in neutral because of it. More to my point though, if you want to bring the clutch movement back towards the grip a bit, say you're tired of reaching all the way forward to work the clutch and have it dis-engaged at just about full reach, you can epoxy a metal shim to that tab, heat shrink it and then adjust the clutch cable for the same 2-3 mm play. Shouldn't take much of a shim to move the friction zone of your clutch back to where it's a bit more comfortable. I've seen threads where folks have drilled and tapped screws on the tab but epoxy and heat shrink are 100% removable.

Of course the clutch lever, which is only 15-16 bucks from Cheap Cycle, could be purchased and bent in a vice to where it would be comfortable for you, then if/when you sell the bike you could put the stock one back on. Just make sure when you adjust the play that you make sure the clutch engages and dis-engages all the way before you ride.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top