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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm still working on the bike I got back in October(?) took a couple months off cause I was focusing on work. But summer is fast approaching.

It's the bike from this post if you want some background http://www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147817

Anyways I've done most of the important things, but I haven't been able to fix the clutch lever. It wont actuate the clutch so I cant shift properly. Imagine not having a clutch... yeah, exactly.

It starts up but you can't shift it.

So I bought a master cylinder repair kit off amazon because my step dad and I figured that was where the problem was after a fair amount of googling and research on here.

Took the master cylinder apart, replaced the old parts with new ones, and was hoping it might fix it. Nope. Still doing the same thing.

What's annoying also is that I'm not even sure if it's working correctly because I'm trying to bleed the old clutch fluid with new stuff but it wont create enough pressure to bleed it out...

HELP!? I'm stuck.
 

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There are two holes in the bottom of the reservoir that need to be open. They're both small but one is really tiny. If either of them are blocked you'll run into this problem. Do you know if you got those cleaned good when you installed your rebuild kit?

Another potential cause could be the slave cylinder at the other end of your clutch line. Make sure that's not leaking. If it's leaking it won't apply the necessary force to the pusher rod that spreads your clutch plates and therefore not activate your clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I thought I cleaned out the holes in the master cylinder when I did the rebuild. But I'll open it up and re-clean it. And I'll find the slave cylinder and check that too. Haven'tseen any other leaking but I'll check.

Also, how much lever actuation shoudl it take to start bleeding the system after such a procedure? Cause I pumped it almost non stop for about 5-10 min and it didn't seem to have much effect... Does it take more? Or does that mean I just haven't fixed it yet?

Any other ideas?
 

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If you're not getting any fluid out of the bleeder screw when you pump the lever somethings wrong. It's lot likely your slave cylinder either. Your slave cylinder won't move if the pressure does't build and that looks like what is happening. You should be get fluid coming out of your bleeder screw as soon as you start to move your lever. I've got three thoughts.
1. MC isn't totally clean and/or holes are plugged.
2. Cup in installed backwards
3. Lines are old and bulging and therefore not transmitting force.
4. I know I said 3, but you could still have an air bubble.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I know the master clutch cylinder is fixed. Took it apart (again) and put it back together (again). Both the holes are clear and it's creating pressure when I pull the clutch lever. Also made sure that the line that leaves the master clutch cylinder is lined up.

So it SHOULD be creating back pressure through the system. Haven't felt any on the bleeder side though... Maybe just air is in there?

Any tips on bleeding the clutch? I've never bled brakes or clutch before, just heard how to do it in theory. I'm still really new to bikes and this is the first bike I've ever worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I unscrewed the bleeder valve entirely, and a bunch of nasty old BF came out. The MC is full but it wont flush clear through even though I can hear suction at the bottom now.

Not sure?

I'm just gonna keep pumping the lever and hoping it flushes through till I hear more ideas.
 

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You should not be hearing sucking air at the bleed screw. Are you following the bleed procedure. Apply pressure, open bleeder, let lever get near end, close bleeder, release lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok. Noticed the slave cylinder is totally dry. Remember now that my step dad and I cleaned it out and all the old gunk in there cause of the clutch issues.

Any suggestions on bleeding it when its totally dry? Thinking about just buying one of those vaccuum things from harbor freight.
 

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It is good practice to replace the rubber bits anytime a hydraulic system is opened up.
Did you adhere to the specific procedures when working on a hydraulic system in regards to cleaners, lubes, etc?
 

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Sounds like you're getting closer. To bleed the system you don't want to remove the bleed screw. Only need to crack it open about a quarter turn and it will open. Typical procedure is to squeeze your lever and hold it. Crack open your bleeder screw about a quarter turn while still holding the lever. Close the bleeder screw and then release your lever. Every time you do this it will push a little old fluid out the bleeder screw. Do this until you're getting new clean fluid coming out the bleeder screw. One thing to mention is to slip a clear tube over the bleed screw and run into a suitable container to keep from getting fluid all over the place.

I have a mity vac for this kind of work, but honestly for a small job like this it's easier to do it the old fashioned way if you ask me since cleaning the mity vac parts is a nuisance.
 
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