[WildBill's_1500_Classic]

Upgraded clutch spring on my 2000 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic Fi, Hydraulic clutch. Immediately noticed my clutch was very very stiff. And it seems to slightly be engaged even when clutch is fully squeezed in. From initial start and put into gear the clutch seems to be working as it should but when I ride then come to a stop (red lights or stop signs) I can feel the bike still trying to pull forward while clutch it pulled in as far as possible.
Do I need to get an upgraded master cylinder or is it a sign of the master cylinder being weak not sending enough pressure to the slave cylinder to engage the clutch as is should?
Any ideas of what it could be or where maybe to start with replacing something?
Thank you in advance

 

[MotoMedic1]

Hi Bill,

• The introduction of the heavier spring will increase the effort required to release the clutch.
• If the master or slave cylinder seal was weak the clutch would slowly engage even with the lever pulled back.
• Your issue seems to be that the lever throw isn't enough to release the clutch with the stronger spring. This could be three things that I can think of:
  1. With the stronger spring you may need to check spring plate gap/height and ensure that you don't need a thinner final steel disc in the disc stack.
  2. The Clutch Lever pivot bolt and/or the master cylinder push rod bushing are worn and the lever isn't able to provide full throw when pulled.
  3. You have air in the clutch hydraulic fluid.

 

[btom]

the Barnett spring is one of the thicker springs, over a short time you'll get a rambo muscle left hand lol

 

[WildBill's_1500_Classic]

Hi Bill,

• The introduction of the heavier spring will increase the effort required to release the clutch.
• If the master or slave cylinder seal was weak the clutch would slowly engage even with the lever pulled back.
• Your issue seems to be that the lever throw isn't enough to release the clutch with the stronger spring. This could be three things that I can think of:
  1. With the stronger spring you may need to check spring plate gap/height and ensure that you don't need a thinner final steel disc in the disc stack.
  2. The Clutch Lever pivot bolt and/or the master cylinder push rod bushing are worn and the lever isn't able to provide full throw when pulled.
  3. You have air in the clutch hydraulic fluid.

I’ll check with #2 first. I’ve already bled the clutch several times with no signs of air until he lines. I wanna try and do what I can without pulling it back open if possible. Thanks for the reply. I’ll let y’all know what I figure out