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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I move the clutch, in or out, it croaks and creaks coming from the salve cylinder end.

Has anyone experienced this and is it an easy fix? I looked in the manual to get an idea of how stuff works down there (well THAT didn't sound right! :ROFLMAO:) and I didn't see anything obvious that could be making the noise.
 

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When I move the clutch, in or out, it croaks and creaks coming from the salve cylinder end.

Has anyone experienced this and is it an easy fix? I looked in the manual to get an idea of how stuff works down there (well THAT didn't sound right! :ROFLMAO:) and I didn't see anything obvious that could be making the noise.
Flush....Flush....Flush...have to do my 1700 ...every year here in Florida heat......
 

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Should do clutch and brake fluid every two years. Here is a system I use. Also lube the clutch level pivot with some grease.

Make sure you cover the bike because clutch fluid is harmful to most surfaces, especially paint. The clutch system does not have the pressures like the brakes, so the pressure bleeding method is not as effective. Better to use the vacuum method. You can buy a tool like the Mighty-Vac or try this low cost method.
Go to a feed store or Vet supply and get one of their largest Syringes. This should not cost more that a couple of bucks. Use clear plastic tubing (available at any automotive store) that will slide onto the syringe and be the right size for the clutch bleeder valve.
Remove your brake reservoir cover and suck out the old fluid. Empty the syringe.
Take a wire or paper clip and make sure the holes in the bottom of the reservoir are clear.
Fill with new fluid to the line and just lay the cover and gasket back on. Don’t install the screws.
Install the hose on the clutch bleeder valve and on the syringe.
Open the bleeder valve a turn and a half and draw back on the syringe. This will suck the fluid and air bubbles into the syringe.
If you need to draw the fluid more than once, make sure you close the bleeder valve when emptying the syringe.
Be sure to keep checking the reservoir, you do not want to empty it and start drawing air into the system. Easier if you have someone helping by keeping the reservoir filled to the line.
After you get clean fluid the coming through the hose, close the valve.
Fill the reservoir to the line and install the cover.
 

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Flushing regularly might prevent the issue, but not clear it up once you have it. You need to disassemble the slave and clean it up. You'll find that the rubber seal has deteriorated and left a black build up there. I cleaned the cylinder and piston with brake parts cleaner and 0000 steel wool. I then lubricated the gasket with rubber safe brake grease and it's been good for the past 1.5 years. I do have a new gasket, but I at this point the old one is still working fine. Good luck. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you SteveJB. This sounds like a more thorough explanation of what's going on and how to fix it. I was a bit skeptical about flushing the fluid alone getting rid of the squeak.

I definitely need to flush both the clutch and the brake... they're both kinda light brown.
 

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StupidName, Mine started out creaking, but then I found that the clutch wouldn't re-engage until the engine warmed up. And even then, the clutch would slip under acceleration. The piston was hanging up so badly that the bike was nearly useless. I tried flushing the fluid (bike was two years old) and that didn't help. I tried cleaning the pushrod like other suggested and that didn't help either. But cleaning up and greasing the slave took care of it. Good luck with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you happen to recall the rough mileage between first notice of creaking and actual issues with the clutch? I'm taking a little trip this coming weekend and there's no way I'll have time to address this before I go. It's been a few hundred miles since I noticed the squeaking/creaking. Some days it's louder than others.
 

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Actual mileage, no. But I struggled with it for 2 riding seasons before I managed to correct it. For me, it was only serious when the air temp was below 50 F. I would start the bike, put it in first, release the clutch and... nothing. Once the temp gauge hit the midway point, the clutch would slide into place and be mostly fine. It was only near the end of the second season that it began slipping after it warmed up. At the time I was probably riding 5K miles a season. The reason I didn't fix it sooner, was that once the weather warmed up, the problem went away so I (foolishly) ignored it. But then, riding in the fall it started again. It was only about a 30 minute job, but you don't know if you'll need new parts until you've got it disassembled. Good luck and stay safe!
 
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