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My bike started making this weird clicking noise when I squeeze the clutch. After several rides I notice that the clicking does not start until the bike is warm and it does not do it all the time. The clicks speed goes with the speed of the bike. Moving faster makes clicking faster. I don't notice the noise unless the clutch is in or moving in nuetral. I just put the bike in nuetral while the engine was cold and moved it around no noise or clicks. Any guesses where to start?
 

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the only thing that comes to mind is that the clutch isn't releasing completely, but that wouldn't account for the sound in neutral. are you sure it isn't going on oll the time and you only hear it when you throttle down?
 

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The dealer just informed me that the output shaft needs to be replaced along with the front sprocket and drive belt. $ 1800.00 or more. Time to sell this thing for parts and get a newer ,bigger bike.
 

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What year is your bike and how many miles?

The VN900LT does not have a sealed bearing on the output shaft to the drive pulley but rather a lubricated style "ball" bearing. It is sealed with an "O" ring and output sleeve (collar) on the main output shaft. Quite visible if you remove the drive pulley and sleeve. This bearing is lubricated through the oil system. When the bike is cold you hear nothing, but as the oil and bearing heats up the viscosity changes...things get "loose" so to speak. You can easily hear the "ball" bearings now "tick" as they roll around the bearing housing and against each other in there. You can also hear them as you wheel/push the vulcan by hand in say your garage. Obviously you hear very little when the clutch is engaged and the engine is working...gets drowned up. What you describe is quite normal to an obvious degree dependent on the age/miles and maintenance of you ride..like good oil changes. Mine does this...normal. You may want to just see if this is what your hearing before you go to $1800 or get rid of the VN. Here is a parts layout for the 2008 http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/2008-kawasaki-vulcan-900-classic-lt-vn900d/o/m148883?AID=1484428&PID=4178031&SID=oon2sfvwak4n#sch549415. Refer to the OEM Transmission section. The part numbers for a 2008 model is 92152, 92055 and the "Ref. Crankcase" label on the bearing. You can clearly see the exposed "Ball bearings". This is not a sealed unit. You may want to check the bearing should you find the noise to be excessive. Therefore you can see how under different conditions you may or not hear the "click/ticking" noise. All good...ride on!
 

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How do you know those details sfair? I must of miss something. I don't recall any such details in his posted statements but a vague reference from the dealer. IMO and experience with dealers/garages who love to change many things, I'd check it out for myself. Easy check. Maybe phillyboy07 can shed some light. I'd like to know if those details are fact and if others have had any of the same issues on the VN900. I know the VN2000 has such similar "detail" issues (with different symptoms) but none that I have heard of on the 900. Interesting.
 

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1. Careful analysis of symptoms.
2. Dealer synopsis.
3. History.
4. Output shaft bearings are probably caged, ( do not know that for sure, but full load bearings are expensive) so, no noise.
 

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1. Careful analysis of symptoms....
2. Dealer synopsis.
3. History.
4. Output shaft bearings are probably caged, ( do not know that for sure, but
full load bearings are expensive) so, no noise.

1. I'd call that reading into it...not facts...
2. That's an assumption - I'd never believe a Dealer...been there many times...that's History in itself.
3. History...have you seen this exact issue before? Is there a known issue here? I believe many of us would like to know, I certainly do or are you refering to something else?
4. I guarrantee you they are as I described and there is noise under the conditions that I stated and fit exactly the facts stated. Very well investigated on my part.Doesn't mean they are all the same...what is!

Anyhow it's good to have two points of view. Phillyboy07 now has options. Again perhaps he/she can fill in the blanks with details/facts as to factually seeing the problem 1st hand. Either way it be nice to know if the dealer/you is for real not from analysis but observation.

Thanks for your input, enligtens me on how some answer are given...
 

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1. Careful analysis of symptoms....
2. Dealer synopsis.
3. History.
4. Output shaft bearings are probably caged, ( do not know that for sure, but
full load bearings are expensive) so, no noise.

1. I'd call that reading into it...not facts...
2. That's an assumption - I'd never believe a Dealer...been there many times...that's History in itself.
3. History...have you seen this exact issue before? Is there a known issue here? I believe many of us would like to know, I certainly do or are you refering to something else?
4. I guarrantee you they are as I described and there is noise under the conditions that I stated and fit exactly the facts stated. Very well investigated on my part.Doesn't mean they are all the same...what is!

Anyhow it's good to have two points of view. Phillyboy07 now has options. Again perhaps he/she can fill in the blanks with details/facts as to factually seeing the problem 1st hand. Either way it be nice to know if the dealer/you is for real not from analysis but observation.

Thanks for your input, enligtens me on how some answer are given...
:eek: This man answered you out of kindness & wanting to help. Why argue? I'm sure he has some mechanical background & that his intentions were NOT to send you on a wild goose chase. Look into his suggestions or go pay the stealer $1800. We're all here to help each other with our issues & talk motorcycles & such in general. ;)
 

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Of course, any possibilities are pure guesswork on my part as I am 4000 miles from the bike, but I feel pretty confident that it is not ball bearings rolling around hitting each other in the races making this noise. Sorry.
 

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I'd be looking at the needle bearing, and the bushing and thrust washer behind the clutch basket.
This bearing only come into play when the engine is running and the clutch is disengaged. When the bike is moving normally in gear, and the clutch lever is released, there is no movement of this bearing, and no noise from it.
 

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I think that the poster assumed it was a clutch problem because of the noise coming and going with the engage/release of the clutch, but the clutch is not the actual problem. When the belt is under load, the pulley is quiet, but under coast, the pulley is free to slap back and forth on the output shaft thus making the noise.
Tightening the pulley nut does no good as the nut only stops the pulley from falling off. It does not tighten the pulley on the output shaft.

Simply removing the front pulley would confirm or rule out this problem.
 

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Anyone who can hear bearings rolling in an oil bath should be working for SETI.

Just saw a 900 Custom late last week getting a new output shaft and pulley so the OP certainly doesn't have the first or only. This was the second time for this bike but they chose to only replace the pulley the first time and it ran quite a while.

PM although the needle bearing behind the clutch is plausible I wonder. Has anyone really witnessed this before? Sure makes me wonder?
 

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OP, can you produce that noise under all these conditions together?:

engine warm
stopped with rear brake applied
in gear with clutch pulled in
engine running at idle or above
 

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Just saw a 900 Custom late last week getting a new output shaft and pulley so the OP certainly doesn't have the first or only. This was the second time for this bike but they chose to only replace the pulley the first time and it ran quite a while.
Unless Kawasaki has come out with a tech bulletin on this problem saying otherwise, I would be applying this compound on every repair:

http://www.mapro.skf.com/products/lub_lgaf3.htm
 

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Unless Kawasaki has come out with a tech bulletin on this problem saying otherwise, I would be applying this compound on every repair:

http://www.mapro.skf.com/products/lub_lgaf3.htm
Absolutely!
In the pic, it looks like they were picturing what it looked like if not applied to the outer race of that bearing. But that would be a bore that was machined or worn too loose to support a bearing.
 

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Since it is for moving parts like jack screws, do you think it's much different from Never Seize?
 

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That compound is to prevent metal fretting, such as what seems to be happening between the pulley and the output shaft. There have been reports of what appears to be rust and corrosion , with subsequent wear, between these two parts when taken apart. That is a sign of metal fretting.
The splines must fit tightly without being an interference fit.
If there is ANY movement between pulley and shaft, possibly combined with a belt that is too tight, and you have a formula for fretting to occur.
It is not for components that are moving, it is for compnents that fit together and experience movement with each other almost on a microscopic scale.

I am not sure if it is similar to anti-seize... probably moly grease with a high percentage of moly might be a substitute, but application of the correct compound can never go wrong.
 

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That compound is to prevent metal fretting, such as what seems to be happening between the pulley and the output shaft. There have been reports of what appears to be rust and corrosion , with subsequent wear, between these two parts when taken apart. That is a sign of metal fretting.
The splines must fit tightly without being an interference fit.
If there is ANY movement between pulley and shaft, possibly combined with a belt that is too tight, and you have a formula for fretting to occur.
It is not for components that are moving, it is for compnents that fit together and experience movement with each other almost on a microscopic scale.

I am not sure if it is similar to anti-seize... probably moly grease with a high percentage of moly might be a substitute, but application of the correct compound can never go wrong.
Probably a good annual winter maintenance project for us with belt drives!
 

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Probably a good annual winter maintenance project for us with belt drives!
I just cannot see a downside to that idea.
The alternative is a teardown, which is never fun or entertaining.

If you have ever had occasion to change the ball bearings on a mechanical contraption and you find a lot of orange/red rust on the shaft and bearing, that may be an example of fretting between the shaft and the bearing race. Next thing that happens is shaft/bearing housing, and bearing race erode, now one or both are loose and you spin the bearing in the housing, or the bearing is almost impossible to remove. Of course, a seized bearing can do the same thing, but that is a different topic.
 
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