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I just purchased a 2007 classic 1600 with 4700 miles. In understood that it may have been sitting for a bit. She is immaculate through and through. When I was initially looking, it would start right up - but stall the second you tried to give it gas. The light was on and it had no bars - so that seemed to be the reason.

I buy the machine and go to pick it up the next day. The dealer assures me once it was topped off everything was tested and it ran perfect. I pick it up and start my drive home.....

At 10-15 mph in 1st, 25-30 in second - even at like 50-60 in fifth, (every gear at that specific rpm range) she wants to do one of two things. Buck like a bronco or stall. I can power through it and get to a higher rpm, sometimes easier than others. Sometimes I have to pull in the couch and rev her up and keep her in that gear and try and get through it - especially in first with a slow acceleration from stop.

If I shift swiftly from gear to gear I can get past the problem and it seems like all is good, but it's not.

It's almost impossible to "cruise" at low rpm. It almost requires a constant acceleration, or a cruise at a much higher rpm (where I think you should shift)

They filled I half way with gas, so my first thought was to top off with high test 93. Same issue prevailed. I then added Lucas Fuel Injector/ Deep Clean. Same issue - albeit only drive for 5 miles after that because it's dark now and at some speeds this is borderline dangerous.

I get home and I check the air cleaner, because it seems like it's choking a bit. I almost feel like it's doing what a carbureted bike would do if you jumped on it cold and tried to ride at low rpms....

I open both side up and it looks factory new. The entire bike does. Again, it only has 4700 miles.

Here are my ideas moving forward, because it seems almost unbridgeable at the point.

Spark plugs ? Which ones, are there any special considerations, and are they pre gapped?

Clean the TB, and even spray some sea foam in there and rev her up to see if that can burn off some old carbon deposits, etc

Run this tank through and see if that Lucas makes a difference, or if the bike works itself out from being run a bit.

Also, as this may be a give away - if I have it parked, running in neutral, and rev it up say, 800 rpm, it will have a constant, in perfect rhythm, fluctuation. This fluctuation will be constant as long as I hold the throttle at that exact spot and probably has a 300 rpm sway.

In addition, when I park the bike and turn her off I hear the sound a balloon would make if you never tied it me had the air Coke out the bottom slowly. It sounded electric but I realized if I opened the gas tank it went away. Close it, and not even starting the bike again, it would start to do that again, I opened the cap. Instantly gone. Then I closed I and it eventually stopped.

I thought to try the "rev up thing" with the cap open to see if it still fluctuated, but I didn't want to make my neighbors mad at night. I'll wait for day time to start her up.

Thank you for your time guys. I appreciate all help in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
In addition, even when it's running fine at higher rpm's it still feels a little "grainy" to me. It never has that silky smooth description I heard when reading reviews for this motorcycle. Sorry for the typos everything is typed on my phone in the previous message.
 

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My 1600 runs fine, only time it it surges a bit is on cold days, at low speeds, until it fully warms up. It you can do it, give it a good run at speed, with the fuel cleaner. If that does not help take it to the dealer and have them run a diagnostic on the bike to see if there are any codes showing up. If it is not running well enough to do the highway run, get it to the dealer for the check first. Hopefully the injector cleaner helps. Possibly there is some water in the tank, from condensation while the bike was sitting. Some have had good results using Seafoam to remove moisture and clean the fuel system.
Hope you can get it sorted out and enjoy the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have put about 30 miles on it, but only about 5 since putting in the additive. The bike tank was almost dead empty when it sat, and it is full with brand new 93. I do not get off today until well after dark so tomorrow would be the earliest I would be able to give it a good run with the injector cleaner. I put about half a bottle of the Lucas "Deep Clean Fuel System Cleaner" into the full tank of 93.
 

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I dunno 1600's but I am going to take a stab at this, when I saw you mention 93 octane my first thoughts were, 93? what's the compression ratio on your 1600? I am not so sure you need 93, or even 92 or 91 for that matter, chech your compression ratio on the 2007 1600's, you only need 93 if compression ratio is like way above 12 to 1, or even 11 to 1, but if its 10 to 1 or less, you can use 87 regular octane, ok I was just taking a stab at this, so if I am wrong then just ignore this, another thing, surging is a sign of a lean condition, and you mentioned cold out and it surges, well cold air is more dense and has more oxygen and needs more fuel in the mixture to compensate, I know how to fix that on a carb but don't know about fuel injection, as far as I know, your bike needs more fuel to stop the surging
 

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oh and a good carb cleaner and fuel stabilizer and gas tank cleaner is seafoam, just put a half can of that stuff with a full tank of gas and you're good to go, also use that seafoam in your gas tank and fill up the tank when putting the bike away in storage, but make sure you fill up the tank to expel all the air even if you don't use seafoam cause with air there's moisture and with moisture in the gas tank over storage read = rust
 

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When using cleaners, follow manufacturers instructions for add rate. NO stronger, no weaker!!!

Take it back to the dealer. He should have sold it to you in good running condition.
If you mess with it, that could be a reason to deny you any repairs that might be necessary.

Post back with results.
 

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" I buy the machine and go to pick it up the next day. The dealer assures me once it was topped off everything was tested and it ran perfect. I pick it up and start my drive home....."

It appears that the dealer didn't actually test ride the bike reasonably thoroughly as the dealer assured you, or did not tell the truth. Agree with sfair, take the bike back to the dealer without changing anything and have them sort out the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
He agreed to have me drop and of and fix it - Truth is though - do I want these guys tinkering with it to "figure it out"? It isn't a Kawi dealer, just a used bike dealer ( with over 200 bikes ). Hoping you guys could point me in the right direction.
 

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He agreed to have me drop and of and fix it - Truth is though - do I want these guys tinkering with it to "figure it out"? It isn't a Kawi dealer, just a used bike dealer ( with over 200 bikes ). Hoping you guys could point me in the right direction.
If they cannot "figure it out", then move on to the next option.
At such low mileage, it should be something simple, but then again?....it could get ugly in a hurry.
Do not accept a bike that is a safety hazard!
 

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Put another 20 miles on it. It does get worse after it gets hot. After about 14 miles it became much more pronounced. Watch this video to see what it did once I parked her and revved it up a tad:

It will not let me post it, as I do not have enough posts. Awesome. PM me for video link please
 

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Put another 20 miles on it. It does get worse after it gets hot. After about 14 miles it became much more pronounced. Watch this video to see what it did once I parked her and revved it up a tad:

It will not let me post it, as I do not have enough posts. Awesome. PM me for video link please
I would bring the bike back but, I think it maybe a ez fix. I would try and make sure the vent for the gas tank is clear. If you open the cap there is a vent hole right inside, make sure that it is clear and the hose running down from it. After trying that I would bring it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Brought it to a 3 red party, actual Kawasawki dealer. They couldn't figure it out. After 2 hours I left with new plugs installed, a $68 bill, and same issues. Dropped it off at the only other Kawasaki dealer.... Can't look at it until Friday or Saturday.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Verdict. TPS has a weird voltage at a certain range. $859 for the throttle body that HAS the sensor on it - anyone know if you can just get the sensor- dealer is saying no
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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Check eBay for the TB or just the sensor from a parts stripper ...
May be the same sensor for all 1600s so you can expand search to include Nomad and Meanstreak ...
Also, there is a HUGE salvage place in St Louis...Archway I think.
Lookem up on google and give them a call...you never know, but bet you can find it cheaper that 6+ bills.

Wonder what your selling dealer might say about it...
They should at least "share" some of the cost...or at least do the labor for replacement at no cost.

Good Luck !!!
At least you know what it "may" be...

Makes me happy mine runs GREAT !!!
I just need tires...

Luckymann77
 

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oh and a good carb cleaner and fuel stabilizer and gas tank cleaner is seafoam, just put a half can of that stuff with a full tank of gas and you're good to go, also use that seafoam in your gas tank and fill up the tank when putting the bike away in storage, but make sure you fill up the tank to expel all the air even if you don't use seafoam cause with air there's moisture and with moisture in the gas tank over storage read = rust
1600's are fuel injected. Carb cleaner might not be a good idea unless the tin actually says for Fi engines.
 

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If I had bought the bike and experienced this problem and the potential expense of repairing it I would return the bike to the seller for a refund of the purchase price. Perhaps with that many machines in stock there may be another which would meet my needs and would run as it ought to. It is quite possible that the previous owner got rid of the motorcycle because they were experiencing the same problem.
 
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