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Planning to change my coolant shortly, and wanted to ask those who have performed this maintenance the following.

In the service manual it states the 900 should run a 50/50 mix of coolant & distilled water. My question; does the coolant already come premixed, or do I have to mix (add water)? I have not purchased coolant yet, and is it different from automotive coolant?
 

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can it be auto coolant like prestone or is it motorcycyle specific
 

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can it be auto coolant like prestone or is it motorcycyle specific
Needs to be silicate free, and it has to be labeled as "safe for aluminum engines". Otherwise yes, it can be auto coolant. But, like anything else, MC specific has certain advantages (sometimes additives) to improve performance. (Sometimes). Some coolants may be silicate free and aluminum safe but not labeled as such; though personally I'd rather be 'safe than sorry' and be absolutely sure that those two things are ON THE LABEL. Even easier is just getting MC specific coolant, which will be both of those things!

As for the OP's question; just like auto coolant you have to read the label. Sometimes it's pre-mixed sometimes it's not. If it's not, be SURE to use DISTILLED water, never tap water!
 

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Needs to be silicate free, and it has to be labeled as "safe for aluminum engines". Otherwise yes, it can be auto coolant. But, like anything else, MC specific has certain advantages (sometimes additives) to improve performance. (Sometimes). Some coolants may be silicate free and aluminum safe but not labeled as such; though personally I'd rather be 'safe than sorry' and be absolutely sure that those two things are ON THE LABEL. Even easier is just getting MC specific coolant, which will be both of those things!

As for the OP's question; just like auto coolant you have to read the label. Sometimes it's pre-mixed sometimes it's not. If it's not, be SURE to use DISTILLED water, never tap water!


+1 I went with kawasaki coolant just so I knew its not like it was outrageous it was like 11 bucks for a quart of straight antifreeze which means I got 2 quarts 50-50


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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the replys and guidance. Will go with coolant specific for motorcycles.
 

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Honda

I always use the silicate free, premixed Honda juice. NOt the cheapest option but I like the convenience.
+1 It's not like we're buying gallons of it and the price won't break you. It's premixed and ready to use. Remember to empty & flush out the overflow tank and refill it too!
 

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Thanks for all the replys and guidance. Will go with coolant specific for motorcycles.
I use regular old Prestone, which I have around for my other vehicles. It's the concentrate so I mix it myself, but you can get it pre-mixed too.
 

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I use regular old Prestone, which I have around for my other vehicles. It's the concentrate so I mix it myself, but you can get it pre-mixed too.
+1. I have been using the pre-diluted (50/50) Prestone Dex Cool in my Chevy truck as well as all my bikes, never had any issues. It is safe for aliminum rads and works really good!
I also add 2-3 floz of Hyper Lube before filling up with the colant.

 

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what is the Hyper Lube for?
 

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I don't use the Dex-Cool stuff, just the plain old green Prestone. Plain old green antifreeze just like the Owner's and Service manuals say.
 

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If in doubt about a mix, just buy straight antifreeze and distilled water and mix your own. Most grocery stores have distilled water. It should be going in your battery too unless you have a sealed maintenance free one.

I looked around some, it's hard to see all the back labels online but these two are clean for aluminum blocks and heads.
Honda coolant contains no silicates or borates.
Prestone® Dex-Cool® Premixed LongLife® Antifreeze/ Coolant contains no phosphate, silicate, and borate free.
Other Prestone products "do" contain them.

Edit ... Oops Romans and others already covered this.
 

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The point I made in the other recent antifreeze post is that, at least for my VN2K, Kawasaki does not specify any extra special requirements for antifreeze.

The specifications given are:

Type: Permanent-type Antifreeze
Color: Green
Mixed Ratio: Soft water 50%, coolant 50%

That's it, those are the "specs" from the service manual.

I saw in the other thread talk about what Honda does or recommends. Hate to alarm anyone, but these ain't Hondas. No doubt Honda designs and builds great bikes, but they didn't design nor build these. ;)

One can make it as hard and complex as they want, or not.

EDIT: In hindsight though, I do have to recant Prestone. It was plain old green Texaco antifreeze I last used.
 

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Mine to Whoaru, (2009 - 2012 Nomad manual) says:
Permanent type antifreeze
Green
Soft water 50%, Coolant 50%
---------------------
All of this silicate stuff is new to me, but it appears to make sense for aluminum. Admittedly Honda seems to push it more than other metrics do.
 

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Has anybody used that Engine Ice???? Will it keep the engine cooler than regular coolant???
 

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Has anybody used that Engine Ice???? Will it keep the engine cooler than regular coolant???
Engine ice is not to keep it cooler but to have an ant freeze that is not slippery if it spills on the track. I don't think you will be using your Vulcan at the track but if you do you are required to replace your coolant by either just water or engine ice.



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what is the Hyper Lube for?
You can read about it here.

The reasons why I use it is because it really does help engine run in the optimal temperature range. I first notice the improvements with my previous bike which was naturally hot-running, a 2006 Vmax. Even after flushing the coolant, I noticed there was way too much slimey crap in the old coolant and a bit of corrosion too. I guess I waited a bit too long plus being ridden/kept in Phoenix, AZ the coolant went bad faster perhaps?
Anyhow, I flushed the radiator the second time but that time, based on my mentor's recommendation, used a few fl oz of this stuff which is similar to Water Wetter (another product) and was really impressed with the results. Since it had been only a month in between flushes, I know this product did make a difference in transferring heat from the engine block to the coolant and to the radiator.

You really have to do a good job of draining the old coolant and flushing the system with distilled water. When you see nothing but clear water come out of the drain plug, you know you are done. Then add this stuff then add the coolant. You are done.
 

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The point I made in the other recent antifreeze post is that, at least for my VN2K, Kawasaki does not specify any extra special requirements for antifreeze.

The specifications given are:

Type: Permanent-type Antifreeze
Color: Green
Mixed Ratio: Soft water 50%, coolant 50%

That's it, those are the "specs" from the service manual.

I saw in the other thread talk about what Honda does or recommends. Hate to alarm anyone, but these ain't Hondas. No doubt Honda designs and builds great bikes, but they didn't design nor build these. ;)

One can make it as hard and complex as they want, or not.

EDIT: In hindsight though, I do have to recant Prestone. It was plain old green Texaco antifreeze I last used.
Plain old Prestone might be fine too but I do know that Dex-Cool is DEFINITELY safe for any make/models out there so why take the risk? Most newer rads are aluminum, so using a more compliant, safer coolant makes more sense imho. It also lasts longer too.

In So Cal, pre-mix seems practical and easier, if I lived in a colder area, I would probably want to mix it myself and go for a 70/30(water) ratio instead.

My $0.02's worth.
 

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Plain old Prestone might be fine too but I do know that Dex-Cool is DEFINITELY safe for any make/models out there so why take the risk? Most newer rads are aluminum, so using a more compliant, safer coolant makes more sense imho. It also lasts longer too.

In So Cal, pre-mix seems practical and easier, if I lived in a colder area, I would probably want to mix it myself and go for a 70/30(water) ratio instead.

My $0.02's worth.
There is no risk. The plain old green stuff is just fine/safe for aluminum and meets the OEM spec "green" whereas Dex-Cool actually doesn't meet the spec because it's not green. :)

Also, I live in MN and 50/50 is just fine. Might need more, maybe in the interior of Alaska or Siberia, but 50/50 is good to -34F, and I'd wager there is a little cushion there too. Besides, less antifreeze in the mixture is better for cooling so its a balance of what you actually need for freeze protection vs cooling and corrosion mitigation. 50/50 is where it's at for most situations in this regard.
 
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