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I was looking at exhaust wrap today at a Napa parts store and saw some high temperature ceramic exhaust paint. Has anyone used this product? What are your thoughts on this verses wrapping the exhaust? I plan to wrap or coat my exhaust soon. All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

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For me I decided to just use the wrap and I'm fine with it. If you are going to use one or the other then I would advise using the wrap. A spray on ceramic paint is not going to hold in the heat like a wrap would. Now there are others on this forum that have sent off their pipes to get it professionally ceramic coated inside and out. That would be excellent for keeping the moisture off the pipe, then they wrap it. If you wanted to spray it with that paint, you would need to install the pipes back back on to cure it with the engine heat before you put the wrap on.
 

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In the past I've used VHT and Duplicolor Hi Heat Exhaust Paints and they don't hold up well or actually even work. On my Vaquero I wrapped the exhaust header using DEI exhaust wrap with great results and highly recommend it over any rattle can paint job, the paint will not give you the results you want nor does it work as effectively as doing a proper exhaust wrap...

This is right before I put the heat shields back on...

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I think I'll wrap them and save some headaches in the future.

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In the past I've used VHT and Duplicolor Hi Heat Exhaust Paints and they don't hold up well or actually even work. On my Vaquero I wrapped the exhaust header using DEI exhaust wrap with great results and highly recommend it over any rattle can paint job, the paint will not give you the results you want nor does it work as effectively as doing a proper exhaust wrap...

This is right before I put the heat shields back on...

So was a hard to get the heat shields on after wards ?
 

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heat shields

I bought bigger clamps when I put mine back on after wrapping them. The front cylinder heat shield gave me the most problems the others are a breese. I tried it with the stock clamps and was getting p off so I just bought bigger clamps.
 

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I bought bigger clamps when I put mine back on after wrapping them. The front cylinder heat shield gave me the most problems the others are a breese. I tried it with the stock clamps and was getting p off so I just bought bigger clamps.
I was wondering , think I might give it a try on mine to reduce the heat.
 

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heat

I was wondering , think I might give it a try on mine to reduce the heat.
It reduced the felt heat by 50 percent. The temp guage still runs the same but I feel a lot less heat from the exhaust. It also made my vance and hines slipons louder. Maybe not but it seems that way .
 

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It reduced the felt heat by 50 percent. The temp guage still runs the same but I feel a lot less heat from the exhaust. It also made my vance and hines slipons louder. Maybe not but it seems that way .
Any heat reduction would be welcome on mine , only an 800 but it's a rider roaster when it's warm out.
 

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heat

Any heat reduction would be welcome on mine , only an 800 but it's a rider roaster when it's warm out.
I have never road an 800 but the voyager will burn you to the ground!!!!!!!!! I have had the bike 3 months and put 9000 miles on it. I am getting used to the heat a little now. Its ok if I dont stop lol. I love the bike though!
 

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So was a hard to get the heat shields on after wards ?

I didn't have any problems using the stock heat shield clamps. I completely removed the exhaust system so I could wrap the header, you can't do a decent job otherwise. I used 50' of 2" black wrap, I soaked the wrap in water and used a 1" overlap wrapping as tight as I could and stainless steel ties to secure the wrap. After I remounted the header and V&H slashcuts I went for a ride to burn in the wrap. I let it cool overnight and put the shields back on the next day...
 

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I didn't have any problems using the stock heat shield clamps. I completely removed the exhaust system so I could wrap the header, you can't do a decent job otherwise. I used 50' of 2" black wrap, I soaked the wrap in water and used a 1" overlap wrapping as tight as I could and stainless steel ties to secure the wrap. After I remounted the header and V&H slashcuts I went for a ride to burn in the wrap. I let it cool overnight and put the shields back on the next day...
Thanks , I thought removing them to wrap would be best, as you said I don't see how you could get that roll around them to do that nice of a job, your's looks good BTW.
I have V&H Cruzers , thought about wrapping them but I still wanted the nice finished look of the heat shields too , guess I didn't think it far enough that the shields could be mounted over the wrap.
 

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I painted mine with VHT ceramic paint and then wrapped with DEI Titanium wrap. Paint was inexpensive and exhaust was off. Thought it might help with rust prevention.

Frank
 

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I was looking at exhaust wrap today at a Napa parts store and saw some high temperature ceramic exhaust paint. Has anyone used this product? What are your thoughts on this verses wrapping the exhaust? I plan to wrap or coat my exhaust soon. All thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
I've done the paint thing on the heat shields. It will look real good till you hit it with your boot good a time or two and then it starts to scuff off. You would either have to repaint them or just get them powdered. Look online for powder coaters in your local area. They range in prices from $70 to $150 to do a pair of heat shields (not the pipes). That price would be if you removed the sheilds took them there and came and picked them up when done.

If you are gonna wrap your pipes there is no need to paint them. The seal on the wrap would probably pull the paint off anyhow. Wrapping pipes does cut down on heat passing to your legs but it holds a lot of heat in the pipes that cannot escape. I've known guys that ran wrapped pipes on Harleys and when they went to replace the wrap they found their pipes had tiny separation cracks in them from the excessive heat.

It's up to you.
 

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In the past I've used VHT and Duplicolor Hi Heat Exhaust Paints and they don't hold up well or actually even work.
I wonder if DarkStar did the prep-work? Wash the pipes, sand them, wash, self-etching primer then paint (all with dry-times).

I would assume that if you just wipe the pipes off and spray the ceramic on that it would flake off pretty quick.

I am seriously considering the VHT FlameProof flat black followed by the clear satin finish for my exhaust and shields.
 

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I sanded my pipes, they were V&Hs ceramic black Big Shot duals, but the original ceramic had some scratch from a lay down. Then I wiped all the sanding residue off with denatured alcohol. Let each coat dry as per can instructions. Then I was careful with them till I heat them up good on a few runs. But they still scuffed later on.

I've used VHT, and other brands of heat paint, anywhere from 1200* to 2000* F. It looks good at first, but it's just not real durable at scuffing. I've also sprayed it on cage engine blocks cause I had it around instead of buying engine paint. It will hold up to the heat better than normal engine paint, but it doesn't hold as well as engine paint to scuffing. Engine paint is only rated to 450*F. I think it has to do with so much heat proofing material in the paint. I honestly don't know why, I just from several experiences know that it don't hold that well. It is great for heat though. It doesn't turn brown or fade from heat. You just can't hit with your boot etc.

I painted a Chevy intake manifold with VHT 2000* paint once, sanded the manifold down to bare aluminum with a wire drill brush. Then later I masked over one section to protect the paint from scratching on installation of the manifold. When I pulled the masking tape off some of the paint came with it.

Use if you like, worse thing could happen is it scuffs and you end up taking them to a ceramic powder coater. It won't cause the price to go up if you paint them. They strip all of um regardless. Maybe yours won't scuff.
 

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I sanded my pipes, ... Then I wiped all the sanding residue off with denatured alcohol. Let each coat dry as per can instructions. Then I was careful with them till I heat them up good on a few runs. But they still scuffed later on....
IF I don't hear back from the two places I've asked for quotes on ceramic coating I am going to try the VHT Flameproof. I'll put the primer on after sanding and then the black followed by satin finish. I will be hoping that doing the whole process :


  • Prep SP445 Prep Spray
  • Prime SP118 FlameProof™ Primer
  • Coat SPXXX FlameProof™ Color
  • Finish SP115 FlameProof™ Clear

and then doing the time consuming curing process will keep it from scuffing.

... very much hoping at least one of the places I asked for a quote comes through soon!
 

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IF I don't hear back from the two places I've asked for quotes on ceramic coating I am going to try the VHT Flameproof . . . . . . .
... very much hoping at least one of the places I asked for a quote comes through soon!
Those places (at least in my area) are sometimes slow getting back on email. They are much better on the phone. Whomever you choose make sure you get the "ceramic powder coating", the standard epoxy powders will not hold up to the heat as well as the true ceramic. If they are experienced in coating pipes they should tell you this up front. I found that some of them don't even do the ceramic at all, but some do.

Down in Florida the price of ceramic on dual pipes runs around $100 to $135 if you deliver and pickup. They have a choice of colors.
 

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I had mine ceramic coated inside and out. Reduced heat 50% or more. The pipe does'nt burn my leg anymore. Then i just wrapped the left muffler pipe. Here's a couple of pics. Classic Coating in Sheboygan WI. did mine. $150 bucks. Heres their number 877-398-9388
 

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