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I have a 2008 Vulcan had carbs rebuilt two years ago and now need rebuilt again any suggestions for prolonging this from happening again. Jim
 

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Happy New Year!

What leads you to believe that the carbs need to be rebuilt? If the bike is in long-term storage then a fuel stabilizer should be used before putting the bike into storage. I have had the small jets in a carb become plugged in as little as a month.
 

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I have a 2008 Vulcan had carbs rebuilt two years ago and now need rebuilt again any suggestions for prolonging this from happening again. Jim
Alcohol free fuel and start it up once in awhile off season.

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Administrator "Loose Nut"
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Doesn't really take fuel, even non ethanol, to dry out and leave deposits as @bikerbill refered to. Fuel stabilizer does help prolong fuel breakdown but unfortunately it's a effect of not riding a bike enough to burn old fuel thru the system and adding new fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Happy New Year!

What leads you to believe that the carbs need to be rebuilt? If the bike is in long-term storage then a fuel stabilizer should be used before putting the bike into storage. I have had the small jets in a carb become plugged in as little as a month.
Thanks I'll try that
 

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WAIT!
I store mine over the winter 5-6 months and use fuel stabilizer.
Bought mine with 12,000 miles on it. Now has 34,000 miles and in the 10 years I've had it have had ZERO fuel problems!
The carbs have also not been touched.
I do not start it at all over the winter. That is not a good practice.

Jmangen59 - try using Seafoam first. Put a lot more in the tank than it states to use, like 4-5 times as much.
And do that for several tanks. After that determine IF they need cleaning.
Dont know what kind of gas you guys are getting, but here it has not let me down since I started driving 42 years ago!
NEVER have had a fuel related carb problem!
 

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I have a 2008 Vulcan had carbs rebuilt two years ago and now need rebuilt again any suggestions for prolonging this from happening again. Jim
As others have said, store with fuel stabilizer. However, on a 13 year old bike, there could be issues that were not addressed during the rebuild. What rubber parts were replaced? The needle slide? The air cutoff valve?. While they may look good one year, old rubber like that can deteriorate quickly and produce leaks. Floats can go bad, too What's going on that you think you need a rebuild?
 

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Hi J59,
  • The 100% best way to prevent fuel additive deposits/goo from clogging your pilot circuit jets and gumming the fuel float needle in the closed position is to drain the carbs of fuel.
  • Once drained, with the fuel supply off, apply the choke/enricher and crank the bike over a few times twisting the throttle to WFO. This will draw any remaining fuel within the carb circuits into the cylinder to be burned or just exhausted as a lean vapor into the headers.
  • This process should be completed last after pouring a fuel enzyme treatment into the fuel tank and thoroughly mixing. Fill the tank as much as possible even into the bottom of the filler neck. The extra fuel will take up any space where atmospheric changes can allow for the introduction of humidity and condensate.
  • Fuel stabilizer does just that. It stabilizes the fuel. It doesn't prevent water build up in the fuel and I have seen stabilized fuel still allow a carb to become gummed up. It, the gummy deposit, was easier to clean and in some cases when mixed with fresh fuel it just 'washes out' of the jets.
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Gas Additive Shooter
 

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2009 Vulcan 500
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WAIT!
I store mine over the winter 5-6 months and use fuel stabilizer.
Bought mine with 12,000 miles on it. Now has 34,000 miles and in the 10 years I've had it have had ZERO fuel problems!
The carbs have also not been touched.
I do not start it at all over the winter. That is not a good practice.

Jmangen59 - try using Seafoam first. Put a lot more in the tank than it states to use, like 4-5 times as much.
And do that for several tanks. After that determine IF they need cleaning.
Dont know what kind of gas you guys are getting, but here it has not let me down since I started driving 42 years ago!
NEVER have had a fuel related carb problem!
You are lucky...the fuel here will trash a carb quick...have to purchase the fuel without alcohol if the bike is going to be sitting at all...I start mine occasionally off season and it's still takes several minutes to clear out...if you use the e10 here you will be greeted with a white blobs in the carb unless you ride regularly...it trashes saws ...weed eaters...mowers..motorcycles..any small carb in its path...oxygenated fuel with alcohol added is what we have here...you have to source out non alcohol fuel..hard to find here.
My 500 does not like to sit at all or the pilot jet and tube clog...stock jet.
Forum is littered with clogged carbs on the 500

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Yes we have E10 here. Have had it here since mid 80s.
I store the bike with E10 in it - the horror! and it still has zero problems.
I have heard and read about all these so called problems with E10, but are they really the fuels fault, or the users???
I have a 7 year old gas weed eater that I use so little I have not used up my gallon of gas/oil mix I started with 7 years ago.
Yep you heard me I still use 7 years old E10 and it has zero effects on my engine!
And no I have not started my bike since 10/15/21 and wont again until around the middle of April 2022!
It will struggle a bit, like always, but will start no problems from fuel.
Just saying it easy to put all your troubles on to the fuel.
 

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WAIT!
I store mine over the winter 5-6 months and use fuel stabilizer.
Bought mine with 12,000 miles on it. Now has 34,000 miles and in the 10 years I've had it have had ZERO fuel problems!
The carbs have also not been touched.
I do not start it at all over the winter. That is not a good practice.

Jmangen59 - try using Seafoam first. Put a lot more in the tank than it states to use, like 4-5 times as much.
And do that for several tanks. After that determine IF they need cleaning.
Dont know what kind of gas you guys are getting, but here it has not let me down since I started driving 42 years ago!
NEVER have had a fuel related carb problem!
my 2004 has over 25k never had an issue. sits for months in nwnj winter. I add some good fuel stuff starts right up every spring.
 

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Hi J59,
  • The 100% best way to prevent fuel additive deposits/goo from clogging your pilot circuit jets and gumming the fuel float needle in the closed position is to drain the carbs of fuel.
  • Once drained, with the fuel supply off, apply the choke/enricher and crank the bike over a few times twisting the throttle to WFO. This will draw any remaining fuel within the carb circuits into the cylinder to be burned or just exhausted as a lean vapor into the headers.
  • This process should be completed last after pouring a fuel enzyme treatment into the fuel tank and thoroughly mixing. Fill the tank as much as possible even into the bottom of the filler neck. The extra fuel will take up any space where atmospheric changes can allow for the introduction of humidity and condensate.
  • Fuel stabilizer does just that. It stabilizes the fuel. It doesn't prevent water build up in the fuel and I have seen stabilized fuel still allow a carb to become gummed up. It, the gummy deposit, was easier to clean and in some cases when mixed with fresh fuel it just 'washes out' of the jets.
Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment Gas Additive Shooter
I disagree. That is the second best way. The best way is ti ride you bike every week. Its easier and more fun, too!
Thom Boswell
 

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Sure, but when it -10°F and roads have ice and snow on them.......
 
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