If you've given the liquid wrench plenty of time to penetrate, you may need an impact wrench. Heat's not really an option either. Probably just gummed up with road crud.
Can't loosen one of my fender cover bolts on my Kawi Custom 900
I have a Kawi Custom 900 and need to replace both fender covers and one of them appears to be frozen. It is a 5mm star type bolt fastener. Removed the other three with a T type tool. They were pretty tight too. I tried using a solvent like liquid wrench but no luck. Any ideas would be welcomed...
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Had the same problem with mine. Had to let it soak.
Thanks for responding. Bought some penetrator stuff at H Depot (they dont carry Liquid Wrench any konger), and it didnt seem to work but I didnt leave it to soak...,
Take a punch, biggest size that will fit down in the bolt head, and tap on the bolt with a hammer. More taps with less force is better than a few heavy hits. That should break loose any rust or red Loctite that someone my have put on there. I know I don't have any star bolts on my bike so that would be a replacement bolt. Who knows what the installer put on there.Thanks for responding. Bought some penetrator stuff at H Depot (they dont carry Liquid Wrench any konger), and it didnt seem to work but I didnt leave it to soak...,
Will try that. The bolt is factory and has 6 sides, seems to be a 5mm hex (sorry I said star). If that doesn't work I will go and get a 1/2" 25 inch breaker bar with a 5 mm socket and see if the leverage is my best friend. Thanks for the pre-idea.
Investing in a 2ft half inch drive breaker bar is a great idea. You need it if you ever change out that front sprocket.Will try that. The bolt is factory and has 6 sides, seems to be a 5mm hex (sorry I said star). If that doesn't work I will go and get a 1/2" 25 inch breaker bar with a 5 mm socket and see if the leverage is my best friend. Thanks for the pre-idea.
A trick I have used many times to save a painted area from having the paint burnt off when taking out a bolt. First take a heat gun and heat the nut with it but not too hot to bubble the paint, but get it as hot as you can without doing damage. Right at the point where you have it as hot as you want, hit the top of the bolt head with freon to chill it very fast and shrink the bolt. Immediately take a wrench and crack the bolt free and remove it. It may take more then one try but it does work. I have done this many times to painted areas where you need to protect the finish.
Neat idea. The only thing I would do differently is to use a can of liquid air to cool the bolt. You have to tilt the can to get the cold liquid to come out, which will cool things off very quickly. A lot cheaper than freon.
Well air might do it but freon is the best way because you want the bolt frozen as fast as you can to shrink the bolt quickly to let it come loose in the nut.Neat idea. The only thing I would do differently is to use a can of liquid air to cool the bolt. You have to tilt the can to get the cold liquid to come out, which will cool things off very quickly. A lot cheaper than freon.
Air would take to long giving the nut a chance to cool off also.
I guess I should have clarfied. You actually used the liquid rather than the air. It will get cold enough to freeze body parts pretty quickly, not that this had ever happened to me.
There are some YouTube videos of canned air being poured onto/into locks to freeze them so they can shatter when struck. Again, much cheaper than freon.
There are some YouTube videos of canned air being poured onto/into locks to freeze them so they can shatter when struck. Again, much cheaper than freon.
If ya do this, be sure NOT to have the flame of the torch on near where you are spraying the liquid air out. That stuff is extremely flammable.
On the other hand, I'm not sure I would advise using the heating method anyways on the bolt being referenced here since the fenders are plastic and are more likely to melt before you get the bolt hot enough.
On the other hand, I'm not sure I would advise using the heating method anyways on the bolt being referenced here since the fenders are plastic and are more likely to melt before you get the bolt hot enough.
My Vulcan has all steel fenders. Never seen one with plastic ones yet.If ya do this, be sure NOT to have the flame of the torch on near where you are spraying the liquid air out. That stuff is extremely flammable.
On the other hand, I'm not sure I would advise using the heating method anyways on the bolt being referenced here since the fenders are plastic and are more likely to melt before you get the bolt hot enough.
What Year/Model/Size is your Vulcan?My Vulcan has all steel fenders. Never seen one with plastic ones yet.
I assumed all the VN900's were plastic Fenders, or at the very least all of the Customs (which is what the OP said he is working with)
Auto Zone PB Blaster - follow the instructions had some caliber bolts on an old Venture - worked like a charm and oh yeah don't use cheap socket (s).
A quick note about the canned air, they usually have something inside which nearly prevents the liquid from getting blown out. You can usually get a short burst before it stops.
This has been my experience with the canned air sold for computers and electronics.
This has been my experience with the canned air sold for computers and electronics.
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