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Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to install a 12v accessory outlet on my 2008 900 Custom. Since it already has a battery tender hook up on it, I figured I would use that to power it. Like Kyuryakin uses to power their Power Point. So I made up a cable to attach to it, soldered all my connections and put a fuse holder in the positive side of my cable. That thing sure looks real pretty! All went well until I plugged it in and had no power!

Now I will admit electrical stuff is not my thing but I figured this setup should work since I have wires running to both the positive and negative sides of my battery. Am I wrong in this?

I have tried checking for power with a test light but the light doesn't come on. I have tried with the key off, on and with the engine running.

Also I don't have power to the accessory plugs either under the seat or in the headlight. I have checked and swapped out all the fuses. This was plan B for powering the outlet.

Any ideas? Thanks!
 

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Just to be clear... you have your Battery Tender hookup cables connected directly to the battery posts? They should be.

  • How are you sure the Battery Tender connection was working before?
  • There really is a fuse in the fuse holder you installed? (We have to eliminate the obvious here... sorry!) And in my setup the Battery Tender connection has it's own inline fuse too. You've checked that as well?
  • And you're certain that your test light itself is fully operational?
It sounds like you've really done all the right things here, so maybe there's a slight chance that you got a defective accessory outlet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just to be clear... you have your Battery Tender hookup cables connected directly to the battery posts? They should be.

  • How are you sure the Battery Tender connection was working before?
  • There really is a fuse in the fuse holder you installed? (We have to eliminate the obvious here... sorry!) And in my setup the Battery Tender connection has it's own inline fuse too. You've checked that as well?
  • And you're certain that your test light itself is fully operational?
It sounds like you've really done all the right things here, so maybe there's a slight chance that you got a defective accessory outlet.
I don't actually know if the battery tender connection was working before. It was on the bike when I bought it. However I did plug my setup into the one I have installed on my wifes scooter( that I know works) and it didn't work there either.

Yes there is a fuse in the battery tender cable, and it looks good.

Yes the test light is good too. I double checked that out as well.

Thanks for the help.
 

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I don't actually know if the battery tender connection was working before. It was on the bike when I bought it. However I did plug my setup into the one I have installed on my wifes scooter( that I know works) and it didn't work there either.

Yes there is a fuse in the battery tender cable, and it looks good.

Yes the test light is good too. I double checked that out as well.

Thanks for the help.
Check the fuse in the Tender wiring with a volt/ohm meter. Just 'cause it looks good doesn't mean it is.
 

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The fuse In my pigtail was a 3 amp when I got it. Tried to hook up a power point and it just blew. After that I am leary of hooking a large amperage item to the pigtail, the battery tender only puts out 1.2 amp, I am by no means an electrician so maybe some one could confirm if the wiring will handle higher amp's and just need a larger fuse.

Ride Safe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, after way more time than I thought it would take, I have successfully installed the 12v accessory outlet. The problems all started with the battery tender cable. Not the fuse but the cable itself. So I took it out. Ran my wires directly from the battery. Installed a SAE connector so I can simply unplug it if I need to. Put an in-line fuse holder on the hot lead with a 7 1/2 amp fuse. Soldered everything up and tested it and it works great.

After removing the battery tender cable I discovered that I now have power to the accessory plugs under the seat and in the headlight bucket! How weird is that!?

All this just so I can see how far off my speedometer is. So I went for a short ride to see. The results were amazing. 20 mph on speedo = 19 on gps. 55 on speedo = 50 on gps. 77 on speedo = 70 on gps. No wonder people were climbing up my butt! After fabricating a bracket for the outlet and a windshield bag next weekend I'll have to see what can be done to fix that.

Thanks for the help and the ideas!
 

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That's a lot of work for an accessory outlet. I got an outlet at wally world for $5 (black with black cap). I sat the outlet in the cable loom for the clutch cable and plugged the outlet in to the spare wires in the headlight bucket. 5 minute install.
 

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Well, after way more time than I thought it would take, I have successfully installed the 12v accessory outlet. The problems all started with the battery tender cable. Not the fuse but the cable itself. So I took it out. Ran my wires directly from the battery. Installed a SAE connector so I can simply unplug it if I need to. Put an in-line fuse holder on the hot lead with a 7 1/2 amp fuse. Soldered everything up and tested it and it works great.

After removing the battery tender cable I discovered that I now have power to the accessory plugs under the seat and in the headlight bucket! How weird is that!?

All this just so I can see how far off my speedometer is. So I went for a short ride to see. The results were amazing. 20 mph on speedo = 19 on gps. 55 on speedo = 50 on gps. 77 on speedo = 70 on gps. No wonder people were climbing up my butt! After fabricating a bracket for the outlet and a windshield bag next weekend I'll have to see what can be done to fix that.

Thanks for the help and the ideas!
Great to here you found the problem, I know what you mean about people climbing, wondered the same myself till i checked on a hand held unit.

Yes the speedo is off by about 10% on almost all 900's, might be one that came messed up and is actually correct but i have not heard of one, the error is designed in to prevent law suits for showing to low a speed. Honda got suied and lost in Europe.

So I know of three options to correct, and one to ride anyway. Do quick math when looking at it, 70=63 60=54 50=45 , or fixit.

2 options are commerical and 1 is posted in a thread if you are a wrench.
Speedo Healer is electronic correction of signal to speedo.
The other is the overdrive belt rear wheel pulley with two different options.

Both have major threads about them.

Have a great ride.

Ride Safe.
 

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You left out the other option, a 2 dollar paint pen from the local crafts store. Figure out 10% off scale and mark it on the Speedo glass. 50 is 45 just over 55 is 50 and such. Hey, at least 100 is actually 90.

Anyways, it'll do till you fix it right. I had the Scootworks from pulley on and it's close enough that I don't worry about fixing it any further.
 

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Scootworks front pulley here too. My 2009 was not a full 10% off, probably about 7-8%. Overdrive pully corrected 6% of it so now it is within 1-2 mph at reasonable speeds.

Another partial option is an oversize rear tire.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think I'll be putting on a Speedohealer next month. The Scootworks front pulley will be down the road a bit. I don't do a lot of highway riding so I figured that can wait. I normally ride to work and only go about 10 miles on a highway. When I ride for fun I stay off the highways. One thing I've noticed is now that I know my actual speed and have started to get used to the rpms at highway speeds, I tend to wind her up a lot more before upshifting!
 
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