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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone ever tried getting the back blinkers to stay on like the front ones and still blink? I think it would be a nice safety feature to be seen from behind at night? If just changing the bulb would work it would be too easy. Run a new wire from inside tail light possibly?
 

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IT is against the law in many states to have amber lights on solid on the back of the bike. Always on lights on the rear have to be Red. Amber is for turns only. You CAN buy and install an Electrical Connections LED system or a Kury Run turn brake controller. This is a better option as it modulates your brake light as well. That means it flashes it several times then turns solid and then repeats. IT catches peoples attentions better while increase the number of lights in the back you have for better visibility at night. You'll need the tripple whammy kit *4607 for red taillights and clear lenses. But it's a good thing. Buy it. I have the Electrical Connections kit and a separate taillight modulator. You have to do some drilling and grinding on the light fixtures for the EC unit to work.
 

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Has anyone ever tried getting the back blinkers to stay on like the front ones and still blink? I think it would be a nice safety feature to be seen from behind at night? If just changing the bulb would work it would be too easy. Run a new wire from inside tail light possibly?
I have an easy way of doing it ..... the lights stay on always ......blink when used as a turn signal , no new wires or dual element sockets needed to be added to your existing lights ,all you need is 2 -normally closed contact -12 volt relays , you can find these at any wreckers out of a ford van or other cars , i have not had any luck finding the N.C. contact (normaly closed ) relays at the local auto parts store , they are always selling N.O.(normally open ) . So what you do is find the wire going to the rear signal light (usally the connection is under the seat ) open the connection ,take the wire that goes to the signal tail light ,and hook it on to the one side of the NC contact , then run a wire from your tail light (running light wire- NOT the brake light wire ) to the other side of the NC contact , now go back to the the signal light wire (the opened conection ), this wire will go to the terminal on the relay marked as the coil , 1 of 2 terminals , then the other coil terminal will go to the battery negative or bike ground (frame ). Repeat wireing for other side ,So now when complete you turn on your bike ,....the running lights will come on through the NC contacts , and stay lite until you select signal , the signal power will now activate the coil ...on and off ,making your running light flash as a signal hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Making running lights out of turn signals

Thanks for both replies. This is what I had in mind, though I will have to check Michigan Law to see about the amber running lights in rear. I guess the other option is to replace amber lens to red if it's legal to have red turn signals in back? My ultimate goal is to have more than just the little red running light/brake to be seen from behind. I see there are more led options too such as the license plate bracket and others.
 

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Mr Clean mentioned the Kury Run turn brake controller, and they also package it as the Triple-Whammy which additionally includes the replacement clear lenses and red bulbs you need to make it happen. It was truly a plug 'n' play install. It sounds like this is the product you are looking for.
 

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I have wanted to do this, but when I have been riding in groups and guys have this done. When we turn corners and my view of them gets blocked by other riders and then I see them again I think they have put their turn signal on, so I get fooled and think I need to plan to turn. Gets kinda irritating. Or maybe I am just a retread.

I do like the idea of doing it though. I like more visibility. I had the brake modulator before it's nice. My Ninja 250 had three bulbs in back for the brake lights. Plus the standard turns. I had the modulator set up so when I hit the brakes it would alternate the modulation between the three lights. Made me real noticeable.

I think the state law about the colours is dumb. Turns imho should be amber always, on cars or bikes. Other wise it looks like you have a flaky brake light.
 

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Well, for more fun, I got my new lense altered for the EC unit I was telling you about. Now one of the stinkin Scotch taps isn't making connections so none of the LED's are working. That means it's the tap on the license plate WHICH I can't get to without taking the fender off because I have a hidden hitch that blocks the bolts to release the assembly. I should probably go in, and solder everything which I was going to do last winter but got busy.

If I had the Kury Tripple whammy, those stinking taps would never cause a problem.
 

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Well more to my saga. I've got the harness off. I have to pull the whole fender off to get to the harness thanks to the Hidden hitch I have on there. I got the hitch for Xmas last year and instead of doing the work I'm doing now then, I wanted to see how everything works before cutting into the harness. Then I found out I would be having rotator surgery. So this is really the first I could get to it anyways. The EC units come with those taps and of course the solid way to do it is to splice and solder in and cover with shrink wrap. That makes it permanent, no wiggly bits.

Another problem with the Electrical Connections setup is it is designed for open stem turn signals. You have to run wires through the stems to get to the LED units. Well while some units have hollow stems the Kawasaki 900 units have a waterproof plug midway thorugh it. And the socket for the lamp fits the only opening snugly. You have to grind a pathway into the housing for the wires to run through and this is almost always to shallow causing a pinch point in the light assy. Now, while that could cause an opening in the wire, generally it hits against the side of the sharp side of the socket and grounds the wires, always the power side too. That'll blow the fuse I can tell ya AND it blows the diode assy that comes with the kit. It is ingenious though. The leds take power from the headlight and ground through the blinker bulb circuitry. While the bliinker is off there is power through the LED units but put on the brake light OR put on the blinker and that leg of the circuit now has the same voltage as the normal power. Without potential the leds go out. So when my bulb stopped working the potential voltage was still there, so the led unit did flash and operated normally as a running lights.

All this muckity muck and drilling, grinding, shorting, bad connections can be avoided by using the plug and play, swap the lense method of the Kury unit. PLUS you don't have to cut in a separate brake light modulator. When I first asked the question you asked it was after I had found out about the brake light modulator and had installed one. Separately they all add up to more then the expense of the Kury unit.

I suppose I could recommend the Kury unit harder, but I just don't know how.
 

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Triple Whammy

I just finished installing the triple whammy on Angus. Simple and super quick. It took less than 10 minutes to get the rear light covers replaced (one screw each) take the seat off and install the modulator. Works as advertised. My only issue was a quick flash rate, not a strobe but a little faster than stock. I put in the load equalizer and didn't see much off a change if any. Sent off an email to tech support, I'll have an answer Monday.

As far as all the do it yourself stuff is concerned I'm always interested in saving a buck but I'd rather be driving than drilling. Did I mention that no electrical tools were needed. :) Just a screwdriver and a socket to remove the seat.

Forgot to post the result of the tech call, add the smaller equalizer to the provided 2nd port on the modulator. Interestingly enough with the key in the on position - engine not running - rate is quick, start the engine and the rate settles right down. Did not need the 2nd equalizer. By the way this rear light set is extremely hard to miss.
 

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Unless something has changed recently ALL states require rear facing running lamps to be red, amber only for turns.
I pulled my rear stems apart(800a) and removed the single element bulb receptacle and replaced it with one from a spare set of fronts I had. Extended the wires, heat shrink, solder all connections and hooked back in the original wire for turn signals, and tapped the wire for rear running light for my modified turn lights. Replaced lens with clear, used red bulbs. Total investment was about $20.00 including the road rashed front turn signal units.
If I had it to do over again I would use Thunders method. I looked at doing it that way but opted to do it the hardest way imaginable, but it works, and is as solid as a factory install.
 

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A lot of good ideas here. Here's how I did it. Since I was changing all my turn signals anyway I bought two more of the three wire front signals to use on the back instead of the two wire oem rear lights. Then added two tail wires into the rear running circuit, put bullet connectors on the ends of those and plugged them up to the third wire on the new lights. Bam, easy as pie. Now have running lights and turns. And IF I were to ever get stopped for it, which I have never even heard of a biker getting stopped for it, all I have to do to satisfy the officer is lift the seat and unplug those two bullet connectors, then back to dead lights with turn.
 

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A lot of good ideas here. Here's how I did it. Since I was changing all my turn signals anyway I bought two more of the three wire front signals to use on the back instead of the two wire oem rear lights. Then added two tail wires into the rear running circuit, put bullet connectors on the ends of those and plugged them up to the third wire on the new lights. Bam, easy as pie. Now have running lights and turns. And IF I were to ever get stopped for it, which I have never even heard of a biker getting stopped for it, all I have to do to satisfy the officer is lift the seat and unplug those two bullet connectors, then back to dead lights with turn.
That is exactly what I outlined above that I did. Cheap, but what a pain to pull those 3 wires through that long stem.
 
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