Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, new member here.. thought I鈥檇 try here before throwing around a bunch of money... so here鈥檚 my issues...

1998 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 classic
244913

starts up ok when battery fully charged, will ride ok after warmed up, then usually when going from second to third with higher throttle will start to sputter then bog down and then back fire or shut off.. then when I go to start it up the batteries drained and won鈥檛 start.. so I鈥檓 gonna go out on a limb and say it鈥檚 something to do with the charging system that鈥檚 not working correctly.. so I popped the seat off and checked the voltage on a full charge and it read 12.1V, started it up and it read 12.6V.. then when I had the seat off I saw a few random wires hanging out that look like they come from the stator connector.. so ANY help or experience would be greatly appreciated!!!

244912
 

Premium Member
Joined
1,532 Posts
Voltages are low. Check connections. Remove or disconnect battery and charge , then have battery load tested. With any luck Sfair will chime in.
 

Registered
Joined
906 Posts
Clean those contacts on the bike, sandpaper works great.
You want excellent connection to the battery.

AND yes get the battery load tested!
We cant proceed until the battery is verified good.
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for replies! So I went to get the battery tested and it was reading 215cc at 12.77v whatever that means lol. The guy said it鈥檚 not completely dead but on its way out.. he said it should be reading 265
244962
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Those loose wires in the photo are really looking suspect to me 馃馃馃, anyone know where they go, I know which ones ground but the other 2 are unknown
 

Registered
Joined
906 Posts
Tape those wires ends up, so they dont touch any thing and dont be concerned with those until you fix your starting problem.
They are most likely not stator wires.
If you have a way to measure battery volts please measure at idle and at high idle, above 3500 rpms.
Those readings will tell about your charging system.
Post those numbers here for us to help you out.
 

Registered
Joined
906 Posts
It should be over 14 volts.
So its either battery or charging system.
Since battery was checked and found somewhat bad, that is the first thing to replace.
Do you know how old it is?
If its at or over 3 years definitely replace!
 

Registered
Joined
3,073 Posts
I wouldn't replace anything yet, despite the battery showing less than rated capacity.

So far you've only checked the voltage at the battery, so it still could be the regulator or the stator. Check the voltages from the stator windings as next step in process of elimination.

You should find a Kawasaki service manual if you're going to work on the bike. Often you can find them on the Internet as a download.
 

Registered
Joined
50 Posts
So the battery is tested and it says to replace the battery. Why would you not replace the battery?
 

Registered
Joined
3,073 Posts
Because I I'm not convinced that's what's keeping the charging system from developing more than 12.6V or whatever.

Ultimately one may want to consider replacing the battery but I don't think that's the main problem here so I wouldn't change it until the charging system works properly.. The bike starts from the battery but when running it runs off the alternator/charging system and apparently that's not keeping up.
 

Registered
Joined
50 Posts
You you put the charging system output into a known deficient battery and measure it at that battery and say there is probably something wrong with the charging system?
 

Registered
Joined
3,073 Posts
You you put the charging system output into a known deficient battery and measure it at that battery and say there is probably something wrong with the charging system?
Is there a problem reading what I wrote?

You will note on the test ticket the battery is capable of being charged, considering it shows 12.77V on the test ticket. As well, the OP has stated the bike starts fine using that battery if he charges it.

So, yes, I'm going to say it again; I would focus on the charging system as the first course of action.
 

Registered
Joined
50 Posts
You can have initial correct reading of volts prior to the test of the battery. The test puts a load on the battery and the volts drop. That is the purpose of a load test. If all you needed was a volt meter to test a battery there would not be load test. Note on the slip the result says replace the battery.
No problem reading what you wrote, it just seems like you don't understand how batteries work or the correct trouble shooting flow chart of a vehicle charging system.
 

Registered
Joined
3,073 Posts
You can have initial correct reading of volts prior to the test of the battery. The test puts a load on the battery and the volts drop. That is the purpose of a load test. If all you needed was a volt meter to test a battery there would not be load test. Note on the slip the result says replace the battery.
No problem reading what you wrote, it just seems like you don't understand how batteries work or the correct trouble shooting flow chart of a vehicle charging system.
It's obvious the battery can start the bike if it's charged, it's just not being properly charged by motorcycle charging system. That's why the OP needs to test the stator as next step.

If the OP wants to throw a new battery in first and then fix the charging system after that I guess that's his call but I fix the root cause first.
 

Registered
Joined
906 Posts
A questionable battery will give the bike two unknown pieces - the battery and the charging system.
Since the battery has been tested and found to be questionable, and like I said if the battery is a few years old, the logical step would be to start with a new good battery and work from there.
Then when the problem is resolved he has a good battery for the next few years!
 

Registered
Joined
3,073 Posts
The logical step is to check the stator because the system isn't charging.

Even the battery "expert" acknowledges the battery isn't dead, it's functioning at 81% of original cranking capacity. It starts the bike fine, when charged, it's just not being charged by the bike.
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well went to Kawasaki dealer and they check the battery and said it鈥檚 a pass, so there鈥檚 that little debate settled 馃ぃ
 

Registered
Joined
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Ok so I got around to working on the bike this afternoon... checked the stator and there was no continuity to ground, and all three of the yellow leads read 000 resistance (not OL).. I think my meter is just not sensitive enough to read exact resistance.. i then put the leads on the fully charged battery terminals and started the bike and gave it throttle, it stayed around 13.6v, and the V never went over 15v so apparently that means the regulator rectifier is good... so I buttoned everything up and went around the neighborhood, and again having trouble shifting gears then bogging down and backfiring then dying while I鈥檓 riding 馃う馃徎鈥嶁檪锔...
 

Registered
Joined
906 Posts
Do that trip around the neighborhood, but this time leave your gas cap open.
Hopefully the tank isn't full!
There's a problem that can develop where the tank cant breathe and that causes problems like you are seeing.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top