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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Readers and riders,
I have a problem that keeps me stopped. My headlight fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why.
I have done the obvious, checked wires, replaced bulb, checked wires, bought new fuses and put them in, and checked wires.
The radiator fan switch and thermostat switch have both been replaced. Light worked for a few days after that, and I thought that was it. (How those two items work with the headlight baffles me) Went to ride it today, and no headlight...no low beam, no high beam. :-( Help?

Please reply if you have had this issue with your 1600 Vulcan and fixed it, or if you have fixed this problem as a bike mechanic. What I don't need is Billy from Timbuktu with a mudbike from Egypt to tell me what he did to a friends bike in 1970, again. (His name is not Billy, and he's not from Timbuktu, but it was a very frustrating waste of time)

Please understand I value your input, but this issue is helping me decide to keep or sell the bike. My wife loves it and loves riding with me, so we want to keep it. However, I'm tired of taking the tank off every week to trace wires and find nothing, then replace the fuse again, only to have it pop in a couple of days.

Thank you in advance for your help.
 

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I know you said you checked your wires. Have you checked everywhere...especially chaff points. I found the main bundle under my seat chaffed and blew my blinker fuse.

I hate electrical issues.
 

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BOTM Winner, December 2016
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Have not had this issue personally but tried to find some info for you on other sites ...

+1 with Spock...

Saw a couple of guy's posts who had fixed this issue ...

The wiring harness under the seat is the most likely culprit...
Pressure from your azz is shorting it ...
That's why its "intermittent"...

Get a bicycle inner tube and strap it around so you are encasing the harness all around at the spot where it makes the bend from under the gas tank over the frame ...

Next,
Does the headlight "flare" with engine rpms ???
If so it may be a rectifier issue ...
Replacing the rectifier may be in order...

If you have ANY accessories added to the circuit you may just need a 15 amp fuse instead...

BTW,
I have gone to an 80/100 headlight bulb with a ceramic lead and have yet to pop a fuse...

Which makes me think that maybe the plug on the back of the headlight has melted and is shorting intermittently with heat and vibration...
If it looks melted at all...replace it.

+2 with Spock,

I hate electrical issues !!!


LMK if any of this helps,
That's all I got.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I have checked the wires from bulb to where they disappear in the CPU bundle. I found no chafing in the bundling, or in the individual wires.

I will recheck where bundle travels around frame members and under the seat.

I have not noticed a flare in the lighting brightness. I have gotten to where each time I park it in the garage, I flip the hi/lo beam switch to see if it's still lit, and it is.

Then, when I go out to ride the next time, it is out. I haven't seen it flare (or flash like a house light) at start up.

I have contemplated using a 15 amp fuse for a while to see how long that lasts, but I don't want to burn something else up/out, and cause even more problems.

Thanks to all for your help and input. Will spend this weekend looking at items mentioned, again....
 

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I know that this is an old post, but I thought that I can possibly remedy your issue ( for future reference ) and tell you my experience with the same Headlight problem.

I just had this to happen to my 06 1600 CL. In my case I did various tests as mentioned above. Not having any luck by doing a wire shake test, I could not get a new fuse to blow. Next thing I did was to replace the headlight fuse, it lasted a couple of days then blew again but just before it blew, while I was returning home my headlights began to pulsate.

Once I got home I started looking for a Service manual, and found one in pdf format. So I paid $15 US and immediately downloaded it.

After a lot of time studying the schematics I was still a bit confused. Then I came up with the following idea.

I pulled out the blown fuse and put a VOM to both sides, inside the fuse cavity where the two blades insert. Then I did a voltage check looking for 12 volts. No voltage there, so my next test was to do the same thing, only this time I turned the Ignition switch to the "on" position and found out which terminal had 12.5 volts on it. Bingo. Now I knew the problem must be in the Junction Box as the relay for Headlight must have shorted.

I fixed my problem by running a new wire thru the frame and into the Headlight itself. Once I had the wire fed through, I had the perfect length of leftover piece of 1/2 inch of flame retardent -cloth like sleeving, and fed that over the outside of the wire that I had ran. The cloth like sleeving protects the individual wire(s) from heat etc...

Next I looked at the wiring schematic to identify the main power lead going to the Low/High dimmer switch. I think it was the blue/white wire. I cut that wire and connected the new wire that I had just ran, there. And yes, I installed a single fuse holder so my new circuit was now protected by a 10 Amp fuse.

On the other side of the new wire, I soldered a spade lug and inserted it in the Hot/Switched side in the fuse block.

By doing this the fuse cover itself cannot be used or closed so the junction Box does not have the plastic cover on it. No big deal.

Now my headlight works, with both High/Low beam.

End result and probable cause: Defective, shorted Relay or Diode with in the headlight circuit of the Junction Box.

The only operational difference now, is that the Headlight comes on when you turn the ignition switch to "on". No big Deal

BTW I found an old Junction Box (same P/N) on ebay for $15 US. Its guaranteed to work 100%.

One of these cold winter days I'll install the replacement Junction Box. After that I'll take my defective Junction Box apart and replace what ever component is defective. Should be an easy repair, then I'll have two.

Hope this helps someone in the future

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for your advice. I replaced 10 amp fuse with 15 and have not had any blow outs since. Please post your experiment results when you're finished...I am curious to see final results. Ivan
 
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