Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

101 - 120 of 130 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
Ok well, maybe I wore out my welcome but I guess I should finish this for anyone else that finds this thread.
Getting things back together is the reverse but there are some things that aren't totally clear.

First, the bit of a clunk as I tightened the screws on the bevel gear assembly bug me.
Second, the manual says torque is 8.6Lbs for the 6mm and 22Lbs for the 8mm bolt but I immediately broke a bolt even though my torque was set to 8. I had to reverse it out so I hand tightened the rest, tight but not crazy. No idea if it's too much so bit nervous about that. Also wondering if I should have put red loc tite as I do on practically everything else.

I got the engine bolts back in no problem, got the radiator and all that stuff back together.

Now I'm fighting with the drive shaft. So far, not able to get it in. Not sure if there is a specific notched spot or something so have to do some research. I tried lining it up and pushing it onto over and over but it won't go in. I'm sure it will be something simple.
still following , but no educated input to give, Bandit will probably respond. I never use red loctite unless it is a permanent placement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Ok well, maybe I wore out my welcome but I guess I should finish this for anyone else that finds this thread.
Getting things back together is the reverse but there are some things that aren't totally clear.

First, the bit of a clunk as I tightened the screws on the bevel gear assembly bug me.
Second, the manual says torque is 8.6Lbs for the 6mm and 22Lbs for the 8mm bolt but I immediately broke a bolt even though my torque was set to 8. I had to reverse it out so I hand tightened the rest, tight but not crazy. No idea if it's too much so bit nervous about that. Also wondering if I should have put red loc tite as I do on practically everything else.

I got the engine bolts back in no problem, got the radiator and all that stuff back together.

Now I'm fighting with the drive shaft. So far, not able to get it in. Not sure if there is a specific notched spot or something so have to do some research. I tried lining it up and pushing it onto over and over but it won't go in. I'm sure it will be something simple.
Best I remember, you'll have to push the plunger down so the shaft can slip onto the splines. I don't remember if there's a master spline that dictates the exact way the splines line up, so you may want to be certain that the hole in the shaft is lined up with the plunger.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Hey, I'm not alone any more :). I thought maybe since the site crash that only certain areas can see it since this is hosted.

Anyhow, just ordered some parts such as exhaust head bolts and other things I should replace so when those are in, I should be able to finish this up. In the meantime, searching for into on how to get the shaft back in since there's nothing obvious in the service manual.

I have yet to find any info on that clunking down when I tightened the gear bolts. Hoping I didn't screw anything up there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Huge important tip for anyone doing this... the little pin hole is they key!

Thank you, thank you David!

I looked all yesterday trying to find some info on getting the driveshaft back in and guess what. The same pin you press down to get the shaft off, you have to press down to get the shaft back on. And as my luck would have it, that pin hole has ended up toward the back where I cannot see or get at it.

Now I don't know if I'll be able to turn that gear to get the pin toward me or if I have to take the whole darn bevel gear out again. If I can turn the shaft, I'm not sure how to do it without damaging it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
It seems the pin is not included with the replacement bevel gear but lucky for me, my old gear still had the pin where it should be so I slipped the small pressure ring out and removed it. Problem is, the tiny hole is at the bottom and I need it at the top.

Does anyone know how I can turn the bevel gear so that the pin hole is where I need it?

Update: Simple, put it in neutral and the gear turns easily.

However, I saw a shim (very thin spacer/washer) fall out of the old bevel gear so now I'm nervous about that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Bandit, the shim that I found, how important is it? I assume those are not things you could pre-install so wondering if I need to tear it all down again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #107
Need to know what the shim looks like. There is nothing that should fall out of the assembly. Sorry, I haven't been here for the reassembly, I have not been getting notifications. I guess I just assumed you knew to depress the pin for the drive shaft to go on the spline.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
It was more of an alignment thing to get it in. Once I found the pin in the old drive, that solved the pin problem.

photo_2020-03-25_10-41-51.jpg photo_2020-03-25_10-42-04.jpg photo_2020-03-25_10-42-09.jpg photo_2020-03-25_10-42-13.jpg

The shim/spacer looked like it could only go where I have it laid down to show where it might fit.
Any thoughts on that clunk I asked about? Do you think that was just the gear/spring going into place as I tightened the bolts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
You are correct, that is the shim for the shifter shaft that protrudes thru the hole where you have the washer.
The torque spring does have to be compressed, but only about 1/4". There are alignment dowels that it also has to fit down on. My guess is you may have be unequal as you were drawing it down and one of them popped on. Be very careful with those bolts, and crisscross as you tighten them down. It is very easy to crack the housing and you would have to start all over. However, it seems you have already gotten it installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
How critical do you feel that shim is?

In terms of tightening the bevel gear, it felt too tight. I think I'm going to loosen them a bit.
The clunk was toward the end of tightening the bolts. I made sure the bevel gear was nicely aligned, on the dowels since I read about that. I tightened using the same method as one would when putting on wheels.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #111
As for the shim, you can get away without it. As for the pop when tightening the bolts, I can think of nothing that would cause that other than what I mentioned. How much gap did you have when you started tightening the bolts and felt tension? I think you already stated that you had it in neutral and have rotated the assembly. correct? if so, was it smooth?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Hmm, maybe a quarter inch or so? Like you said, maybe it was just one of those dowels lining up.
The gear turns smoothly. I don't have the rear wheel on it yet. I ordered new rubber so going to have that changed before I get the rear wheel back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
I have both motor mounts back in, have to get the radiator hose back on, fluids, tank, footboards, shocks things like that. Motor is pretty much back together.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #115
If you have not already done so, remove the oil screen plug, pull out the spring and filter. Pay attention to how it comes out for orientation when you reassemble. Clean this. Also remove the oil filter, take a shop rag and clean around the mating surfaces, you will find small metal particles from the bad bevel gear bearing. I recommend when you get everything back together, use a cheap oil filter and oil, run the engine for 15 minutes. Shut it down, drain oil, replace filter with a good one, and fill with what ever oil you normally use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Will do.

There is one more thing that is not clear and I cannot find an answer to.
When I put the clutch rod assembly back into the bevel gear, it would not fit up tight against the piece that is in the bevel gear. I started tightening the bolts very slowly and the assembly went together. Meaning, it's as if I pushed a spring in as I tightened the bolts. Is this as expected or did I do something wrong?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #117
I am a bit confused, the bevel gear assembly should be installed and tightened. Then the clutch rod should slide thru the hole (with the recessed end out), and then the slave cylinder attached. Are you saying that the slave cylinder would not fit up flush to the housing until you started tightening the bolts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Yes, I installed the bevel gear first, re-connected all of the wires and then put the clutch rod and cover back on. Only, the cover would not go up tight against the housing. slowly tightened the bolts and there was no unusual pressure and it slowly came together. But it's as if the rod was pushing against the outer shell being why I could not make it fit against the housing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
Discussion Starter #119
What was happening is the piston in the slave cylinder was being pushed back in. Even though you did not depress the clutch handle, the piston will ease out some. Should not be anything to worry about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Ah yes, I should have depressed the clutch handle before removing the rod. Tires are being replaced as I type this so should be able to get back on this later or tomorrow. It's been a good way to get away from my desk too since I'm working from home like many :).
 
101 - 120 of 130 Posts
Top