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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bevel Gear Repair: UPDATE

Today I did the repairs to the bevel gear assembly on the '04 Nomad I purchased last week. This time instead of a complete engine removal, I just undid enough to move the engine forward and twist it to the right to remove the drive shaft. Then it was just a matter of unbolting the bevel gear assembly and removing it.
When I disassembled the gears, I found the failure was the drive gear bearing. This is the one located behind the bronze colored seal. Seems the bearing collar had a rough spot that eventually wore to a point the back of the drive gear was riding on the bearing retainer. New bearing installed, reset gear pattern, and put it all back together.
Got all the parts back together except the fuel tank & instrument cluster. May finish that tomorrow and test drive.

Update: The job is complete and the Nomad all back together. Turned out excellent. Took a short ride yesterday,(we are experiencing unseasonably warm weather here), and everything was smooth and quite. Bike is completely factory stock and cleaned up real nice. Will add a picture or two later.
 

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Bandit, if you have any need for a stock seat and pillion off an '04 1500 Classic, you can have them for free. We just moved into a new house and don't have as much room as we had in the old one. I also have some stock exhaust parts as well that I'd also let someone have.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Pat, that is a most gracious offer, thank you, but at this time I have no need for those items. Perhaps another forum member could use them.
 

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I'd be up for the stock exhaust if still available.

Great writeup on the bevel gear issue. Wednesday I'll inspect the 2003 VN1600 I have money down on. I'm buying it cheap but the shop says it has a 2nd gear issue that requires shifting from 1st to 3rd. Some reports I've seen point to internal tranny issues and others point to bevel gear issues. I'll find out soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a bit of first hand experience with these model transmissions. So if I can be of any help, just post your question.
 

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Is that not stock seats on there now ?
It is. But I know Bandit rebuilds these bikes on occasion and thought he might have a need for some seats in almost new condition. Anyone can have them if they want. I'm not looking to sell, just get them out of my garage and have someone else be able to to get some use out of them.
 

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I'd be up for the stock exhaust if still available.

Great writeup on the bevel gear issue. Wednesday I'll inspect the 2003 VN1600 I have money down on. I'm buying it cheap but the shop says it has a 2nd gear issue that requires shifting from 1st to 3rd. Some reports I've seen point to internal tranny issues and others point to bevel gear issues. I'll find out soon.
Don't know about the 1600, but on some of the 1500s in past years, there was an issue with the shifter fork at 2nd gear bending a bit.
 

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I know this is an old post but I'm thinking of tackling this job myself also.
I'll still reading posts on this and other sites to put together what I need but the main things that make me nervous is reading that there are some alignments that need to be done right otherwise, the job is ruined.

I'm trying to put together a list of tools, gaskets, parts I should have on hand to do the job.
I've read something about needing a $160 tool while others say you don't need it.

I've also read it can cost up to $1000 to have it done at a shop. I'll call around before doing it since that is not clear either.

I'm not sure which thread to post this question on so thought I would pick this one since the OP is someone that has done a lot of work on these kinds of bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you are unfamiliar with setting up a gear pattern, I recommend you have this done by someone who is. Yes, you can throw a new bearing in it, reassemble the bike and it may last for a while, or it most likely will whine, meaning the pattern was not correct set.
I have rebuilt many of these units and normally sell them for around $250, ready to install. You can search on e-bay or other bike salvage shops and find a used unit ready to install. All, 15 & 1600 units with the electronic speedometer will interchange.
 

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If you are unfamiliar with setting up a gear pattern, I recommend you have this done by someone who is. Yes, you can throw a new bearing in it, reassemble the bike and it may last for a while, or it most likely will whine, meaning the pattern was not correct set.
I have rebuilt many of these units and normally sell them for around $250, ready to install. You can search on e-bay or other bike salvage shops and find a used unit ready to install. All, 15 & 1600 units with the electronic speedometer will interchange.
Hi Bandit.

Can you expand on the 'unit' that you sell? I thought all I needed was a bearing and a few things like a gasket etc, around $80 bucks worth I've read.

No, I'm not familiar with gear patterns but if it's something than when I get to it, could post images and get help before closing it up, I'd do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Bandit.

Can you expand on the 'unit' that you sell? I thought all I needed was a bearing and a few things like a gasket etc, around $80 bucks worth I've read.

No, I'm not familiar with gear patterns but if it's something than when I get to it, could post images and get help before closing it up, I'd do that.
The units I sell, (when available), are the complete bevel gear assembly, ready to install on your bike. I even ship them with a new gasket. Before you even begin to rebuild a unit, you must remove the pinion, examine it and the ring gear teeth for damage. If these are damaged, (chipped or broken teeth), they both must be replaced. Any time a bearing is replaced, it requires a new crush collar and shimming to reset the pattern. Pinion gear also requires a preload. Many times I see people selling just the pinion gear on e-bay, you are taking a risk that it will pattern with a used ring gear.
 

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While on a trip last week, I heard the whining sound one day and I could smell something burning.
The next day, the clutch stopped working so I used the throttle trick to change gears so we could reach a bike shop that stayed open for us after hours.

The mechanic told me what he thought was happening. He thought the gear housing was getting so hot that it was boiling the clutch fluid. We could see it seeping a little too. He used only air to cool down the gear housing and the clutch pressure came back but he advised against riding it any more. He hoped that since I'd only started hearing the sound the day before, I probably didn't damage anything but should trailer it home which I did.

I'm hoping this means I didn't wreck any gears but since there were at least 200 miles involved between the time of hearing it to not riding it, I don't know since most of that was highway speeds of 75+.

The unit you sell, is this part of the alignment you're talking about, meaning it would already be aligned? I'm definitely interested if it's something that will help me do this job on my own with my limitations mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What you have described is typical bevel gear failure. With the clutch slave cylinder be attached to the housing right beside the bearings, the heat transfer causes the clutch not to work. Often times people think their clutch has failed and unnecessarily tear into it.
Even if the gears are not damaged, when you replace the bearings the pattern must be reset. Yes, all of this is done on my rebuilt units. Should you decide to tackle the job yourself, it is imperative that the crank case oil be drained, and the lip where the oil filter attaches be cleaned, as well as removing the primary filter in the case. Keep in mind that the bearing that failed did not just instantly go bad. Over a period of time it was like filing on it and the small particles are in your engine.
 

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What you have described is typical bevel gear failure. With the clutch slave cylinder be attached to the housing right beside the bearings, the heat transfer causes the clutch not to work. Often times people think their clutch has failed and unnecessarily tear into it.
Even if the gears are not damaged, when you replace the bearings the pattern must be reset. Yes, all of this is done on my rebuilt units. Should you decide to tackle the job yourself, it is imperative that the crank case oil be drained, and the lip where the oil filter attaches be cleaned, as well as removing the primary filter in the case. Keep in mind that the bearing that failed did not just instantly go bad. Over a period of time it was like filing on it and the small particles are in your engine.
Great, sounds like you can help me along the way so yeah, I think I'll go for your solution.
Do you want me to PM you or just keep going in this thread that wasn't mine to start with.
Also, what do you need to know about the bike and do you have one in stick since you mentioned you don't always.

I'll order in the next week or two. Just have to move some things around in the garage to have the space I'll need.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Since the subject matter is the same as the original thread, and the original poster's problem has been solved, it may be beneficial to others following this thread to just continue here. I have been very busy lately and not had time to build another gear drive. I have all the parts to assemble several and will try to get one together in the following couple of weeks.

If you are going to do the job yourself, I recommend unbolting the engine and moving it forward just enough to get the drive shaft off the output spline. This way you do not have to remove anything in the rear and the bike can remain on its tires.
 

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Since the subject matter is the same as the original thread, and the original poster's problem has been solved, it may be beneficial to others following this thread to just continue here. I have been very busy lately and not had time to build another gear drive. I have all the parts to assemble several and will try to get one together in the following couple of weeks.

If you are going to do the job yourself, I recommend unbolting the engine and moving it forward just enough to get the drive shaft off the output spline. This way you do not have to remove anything in the rear and the bike can remain on its tires.
Done deal, I'll buy one for sure.

I've not read anything about doing it this way but it sounds like a lot less work than what I have read. I'll work on getting the bike set up for surgery and see if I can do as you mention, moving the engine forward.
 

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Bandit, I assume you'll just contact me when you have one ready or should I PM you for that and we can continue in the forums once I am ready to install it?
 
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