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Is there anything that can be done about the howling belt noise in the front, and the baby rattle sound from near the rear wheel? It's starting to wear on me.... any hlp is appriciated...

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Baby rattle noise!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Excellent terminology!
I was describing it as a "chicka,chicka" sound.
I did pretty much everything.....finally I ran a block of paraffin wax (the ole lady had some in the cupboard) along the length of the belt, the noise and howl dissapeared. Some use a belt dressing that HD sells. Your belt might be too tight. However, the wax was the ONLY thing that cured the chicka,chicka..."baby rattle" sound. I don'tknow if it was an intermittent scuffing of the belt against the pulley or what, but for now, it's GONE!
 

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Don't be surprised if no-one responds to this thread. The issue is right up there with synthetic versus dino and what octane should I use.....lol.
That being said, u and I are the ONLY ones who have mentioned the "baby rattle" like noise. It slowly began to drive me crazy as well. I did everything, almost completely stripping the bike down to find the rattle. I never did. Dressing the belt seems to have worked. That being said, I fully expect it back....lol.
 

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Silver Shadow....Got some "gremlins" 'eh...Well I've had them too, but NO MORE!!!! This is time consuming..Before you do anything, put your bike on a lift and check to that the rear pulley turns true...doesn't wobble. IF it doesn't check my posts on this...search pulley wobble....If it's OK, get some GUNK brake cleaner(it's rubber, paint and plastic safe #AM720c)...spray "liberally" to clean your belt on the toothed side.....Give it a while to dry and spray a "little" clear Syn Chain Guard lube(www.maximausa.com) on the belt as it turns....either with the gear engaged, motor running or by hand .....your choice...Don't over lube, just use enough to quieten the noise(yes I know it's supposed to be DRY)..you might have to do this a couple times to get it all...Check the tension on the belt..Kawasaki has it too damned tight. Realign the rear wheel by measuring the distance the rear adjusting nuts(where they meet the flange) and the end of adjuster.....IF you can't get the belt to ride the outside(to the left) on the pulley this way, set it in gear and adjust the right side adjuster(after you have the belt tension set) until the belt just starts to shift over....tighten everything up and you're done... best of luck...Had a hell of a time with this.....and I can now say that all the noise, chirps, whines, and so on are now done...
 

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Tombstone...Now you see that's a "very" touchy question and very hard to "know" proper tension...I have mine set to where it deflects to the 5th(fifth)mark of the viewing hole in the lower portion of the belt guard by pushing up with your fingers(giving some, but not a lot of resistance). There are a lot who will argue that a belt too loose will likely break...I don't know, I guess it's what someone would consider too loose.. But what I do know is, that a belt that deflects about 2mm under 10 lbs of upward pressure on the belt, will more than likely cause counter shaft bearings and/or pulley hub bearings to fail prematurely....That's my opinion; and I might add that that opinion is shared by others...Belt tension and rear wheel alignment is crucial in keeping a good drive system. If you use the marks on the swing arm you are really only putting rear wheel in an "approximate" position. To do it properly(IMHO) you have to place the bike on a lift or stand, run the motor with 1st gear engaged and adjust the right side tensioner until the belt just starts to shift to the left and touches the pulley face. You might consider cleaning the belt before you do this. And maybe spray some silicon lube on too. This is exactly the same method that's used to centre a sanding belt on a electric belt sander. If the rear wheel is "cocked" too far to the right, you will wear the rear tire out too fast and the belt will rub(?) as well...
 

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Tombstone...Now you see that's a "very" touchy question and very hard to "know" proper tension...I have mine set to where it deflects to the 5th(fifth)mark of the viewing hole in the lower portion of the belt guard by pushing up with your fingers(giving some, but not a lot of resistance). There are a lot who will argue that a belt too loose will likely break...I don't know, I guess it's what someone would consider too loose.. But what I do know is, that a belt that deflects about 2mm under 10 lbs of upward pressure on the belt, will more than likely cause counter shaft bearings and/or pulley hub bearings to fail prematurely....That's my opinion; and I might add that that opinion is shared by others...Belt tension and rear wheel alignment is crucial in keeping a good drive system. If you use the marks on the swing arm you are really only putting rear wheel in an "approximate" position. To do it properly(IMHO) you have to place the bike on a lift or stand, run the motor with 1st gear engaged and adjust the right side tensioner until the belt just starts to shift to the left and touches the pulley face. You might consider cleaning the belt before you do this. And maybe spray some silicon lube on too. This is exactly the same method that's used to centre a sanding belt on a electric belt sander. If the rear wheel is "cocked" too far to the right, you will wear the rear tire out too fast and the belt will rub(?) as well...
I know, hard to explain how hard to push to get it to deflect.... But thanks for your post. That helps, I'll be adjusting mine today. :)
 

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Parrafin wax suggestion

I went with the paraffin wax suggestion and it worked great for me. No more howl or whine from underneath. Not sure how long it will last, but I just had it out and my noise was gone. Sounds better/quieter now than when I first bought it last summer.......
 

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Great thread and good info! I'm gonna give that a try. This has been annoying me for quite some time.

Of course the valve tapping gets on my nerves at times too, but I believe that's just the way it's made. I can live with it. :)
 

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Thanks for all the great info guys. I have been having the same issue. The noise has been killing me. The only time I don't notice it is when I'm on the highway and the wind drowns out all other noise. I am gonna start with dressing the belt
 

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I am convinced my baby rattles under acceleration, sometimes only, are caused by a part called the Air Switching Valve. I am familiar with fuel injection, but unfamiliar with this, so could someone more knowlegable explain what this does?

Also, I know on some belt adjustments and most chains that the bike has to be loaded, with a rider, to get the proper adjustment. I know the Kaw manual doesn't specify this. You may think you have the right adjustment unloaded, but the angle of the swingarm changes under load and causes the belt/chain to get tighter.
 

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I am convinced my baby rattles under acceleration, sometimes only, are caused by a part called the Air Switching Valve. I am familiar with fuel injection, but unfamiliar with this, so could someone more knowlegable explain what this does?

Also, I know on some belt adjustments and most chains that the bike has to be loaded, with a rider, to get the proper adjustment. I know the Kaw manual doesn't specify this. You may think you have the right adjustment unloaded, but the angle of the swingarm changes under load and causes the belt/chain to get tighter.
ashtavakra, you are not the only one who is experiencing this noise. I never really notice mine until I installed some windshield lowers which reflected the noise, making it more pronounced. This only occurs under hard acceleration (900LT).
 

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ashtavakra, you are not the only one who is experiencing this noise. I never really notice mine until I installed some windshield lowers which reflected the noise, making it more pronounced. This only occurs under hard acceleration (900LT).
You are right Hunternutz. Just got back from a 40mile ride. It is most pronounced under hard acceleration.

I think Kawasaki uses it's own terminology with parts and unless someone corrects me the Air Switching Valve is better known as the IAC valve (Idle Air Control). That is what gives you that higher idle on start up. If that is the case then that is not what we are hearing.

My best guess is the valves. I have never seen this design before, it is kinda strange that you can just pull the rockers over by hand. I'll open her up this fall or winter and check the clearances. It could be just normal.

Hopefully, it is not a preignition or some kind of detonation problem.
 

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You are right Hunternutz. Just got back from a 40mile ride. It is most pronounced under hard acceleration.

I think Kawasaki uses it's own terminology with parts and unless someone corrects me the Air Switching Valve is better known as the IAC valve (Idle Air Control). That is what gives you that higher idle on start up. If that is the case then that is not what we are hearing.

My best guess is the valves. I have never seen this design before, it is kinda strange that you can just pull the rockers over by hand. I'll open her up this fall or winter and check the clearances. It could be just normal.

Hopefully, it is not a preignition or some kind of detonation problem.
From everything I have read, that noise you hear is valve tick and is very common with our engines. I have actually heard that if you don't hear the valve tick then something is wrong. I just bought my bike with 1200 miles on the odo and researched it. Chances are there isn't a thing you can do about it excepty ignore it.
 

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I do not believe this to be a detonation issue or any other engine issue for that matter. It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the bike - I am not overly concerned. By the way it's a 2009 with 3,000 miles on the bike. Ride safe!
 

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"To do it properly(IMHO) you have to place the bike on a lift or stand, run the motor with 1st gear engaged and adjust the right side tensioner until the belt just starts to shift to the left and touches the pulley face. "

Why should it touch the left of the pulley face? Mine is this way and i see it has rubbed off some belt on the side and i see a white color band in the belt.
 

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Uhhhh, you DO need to get the bike in the air and you should rotate the tire several times, both front and back, but if you're going to run the bike and spin the tire with the motor either make DANG good and sure that sucker is solidly held OR get a video camera, preferably several including the one that gets run over, on the action.

I know, you don't mean to rev it up and spin it as fast as you can, you just mean for the motor to turn the belt, but you can spin the tire by hand and get it lined up.
 

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Uhhhh, you DO need to get the bike in the air and you should rotate the tire several times, both front and back, but if you're going to run the bike and spin the tire with the motor either make DANG good and sure that sucker is solidly held OR get a video camera, preferably several including the one that gets run over, on the action.

I know, you don't mean to rev it up and spin it as fast as you can, you just mean for the motor to turn the belt, but you can spin the tire by hand and get it lined up.
I was asking why the belt has to touch the left hand side and not just stay in the middle.

I know the bike has to be on a stand to do the belt adjustment !
 

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Thats the way the engine, rear end is lined up. When both are true and straight with the frame the belt just touches the outer flange.
 
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