I know, hard to explain how hard to push to get it to deflect.... But thanks for your post. That helps, I'll be adjusting mine today.Tombstone...Now you see that's a "very" touchy question and very hard to "know" proper tension...I have mine set to where it deflects to the 5th(fifth)mark of the viewing hole in the lower portion of the belt guard by pushing up with your fingers(giving some, but not a lot of resistance). There are a lot who will argue that a belt too loose will likely break...I don't know, I guess it's what someone would consider too loose.. But what I do know is, that a belt that deflects about 2mm under 10 lbs of upward pressure on the belt, will more than likely cause counter shaft bearings and/or pulley hub bearings to fail prematurely....That's my opinion; and I might add that that opinion is shared by others...Belt tension and rear wheel alignment is crucial in keeping a good drive system. If you use the marks on the swing arm you are really only putting rear wheel in an "approximate" position. To do it properly(IMHO) you have to place the bike on a lift or stand, run the motor with 1st gear engaged and adjust the right side tensioner until the belt just starts to shift to the left and touches the pulley face. You might consider cleaning the belt before you do this. And maybe spray some silicon lube on too. This is exactly the same method that's used to centre a sanding belt on a electric belt sander. If the rear wheel is "cocked" too far to the right, you will wear the rear tire out too fast and the belt will rub(?) as well...
ashtavakra, you are not the only one who is experiencing this noise. I never really notice mine until I installed some windshield lowers which reflected the noise, making it more pronounced. This only occurs under hard acceleration (900LT).I am convinced my baby rattles under acceleration, sometimes only, are caused by a part called the Air Switching Valve. I am familiar with fuel injection, but unfamiliar with this, so could someone more knowlegable explain what this does?
Also, I know on some belt adjustments and most chains that the bike has to be loaded, with a rider, to get the proper adjustment. I know the Kaw manual doesn't specify this. You may think you have the right adjustment unloaded, but the angle of the swingarm changes under load and causes the belt/chain to get tighter.
You are right Hunternutz. Just got back from a 40mile ride. It is most pronounced under hard acceleration.ashtavakra, you are not the only one who is experiencing this noise. I never really notice mine until I installed some windshield lowers which reflected the noise, making it more pronounced. This only occurs under hard acceleration (900LT).
From everything I have read, that noise you hear is valve tick and is very common with our engines. I have actually heard that if you don't hear the valve tick then something is wrong. I just bought my bike with 1200 miles on the odo and researched it. Chances are there isn't a thing you can do about it excepty ignore it.You are right Hunternutz. Just got back from a 40mile ride. It is most pronounced under hard acceleration.
I think Kawasaki uses it's own terminology with parts and unless someone corrects me the Air Switching Valve is better known as the IAC valve (Idle Air Control). That is what gives you that higher idle on start up. If that is the case then that is not what we are hearing.
My best guess is the valves. I have never seen this design before, it is kinda strange that you can just pull the rockers over by hand. I'll open her up this fall or winter and check the clearances. It could be just normal.
Hopefully, it is not a preignition or some kind of detonation problem.
I was asking why the belt has to touch the left hand side and not just stay in the middle.Uhhhh, you DO need to get the bike in the air and you should rotate the tire several times, both front and back, but if you're going to run the bike and spin the tire with the motor either make DANG good and sure that sucker is solidly held OR get a video camera, preferably several including the one that gets run over, on the action.
I know, you don't mean to rev it up and spin it as fast as you can, you just mean for the motor to turn the belt, but you can spin the tire by hand and get it lined up.