Kawasaki Vulcan Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just ordered the 34 tooth Baron front pulley for my 2008 900 Classic LT. My question is, what's the proper belt tension? I have the service manual and it refers to the deflection of the belt when adjusting it but not the tension. I can get a tension gauge pretty cheap but I don't know how to cross reference between deflection and tension parameters.

These are the specs from the service manual. (Drive Belt Deflection (with 45 N, 4.6 kgf, 10 lb force) Standard: 1.5 ∼ 4.0 mm (0.059 ∼ 0.16 in.). How do I achieve this. Is there a specific tool that is being used?

Many people here have done this mod themselves and so will I. Please report back with your findings and what the best measurement technique is. I have also ordered new exhaust and plan on doing these mods together because from what I have read it says exhaust needs to be removed to adjust belt? Maybe I am wrong on that one though. Thanks in advance!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,335 Posts
I just ordered the 34 tooth Baron front pulley for my 2008 900 Classic LT. My question is, what's the proper belt tension? I have the service manual and it refers to the deflection of the belt when adjusting it but not the tension. I can get a tension gauge pretty cheap but I don't know how to cross reference between deflection and tension parameters.

These are the specs from the service manual. (Drive Belt Deflection (with 45 N, 4.6 kgf, 10 lb force) Standard: 1.5 ∼ 4.0 mm (0.059 ∼ 0.16 in.). How do I achieve this. Is there a specific tool that is being used?

Many people here have done this mod themselves and so will I. Please report back with your findings and what the best measurement technique is. I have also ordered new exhaust and plan on doing these mods together because from what I have read it says exhaust needs to be removed to adjust belt? Maybe I am wrong on that one though. Thanks in advance!
I purchased a tension gauge. The gauge will have markings to indicate the tension (by lbs.) being applied. Mine has a clear marking for 10lbs. Placing the gauge in the middle of the belt (under the deflection window is the best place). Then while applying 10lbs of tension measure the deflection of the belt. The deflection window has markings as well (approx. 5mm increments). I have mine set at 4mm.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks! I just purchased a 10lb tension gauge. Seems fairly straight forward now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,335 Posts
Felt it was a worth while tool to add to the tool chest. Have used mine several times now. Takes the guess work out of the adjustment.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Thanks! I just purchased a 10lb tension gauge. Seems fairly straight forward now.
The axle nut can be removed without removing the exhaust by using an open end wrench. Mark the location of the cotter pin on both the nut and the axle with a felt tip marker. I even marked the axle head with an "up" arrow. Now when you're done moving the rear wheel around you can tighten the axle nut back to it's original position on the axle and slip the cotter pin back into it's original location. If you are worried that the torque may be off then buy a crows foot wrench that fits your torque wrench and torque the axle nut that way.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks much, good info. I actually canceled the pulley order for now due to end of riding season. I will do it come spring tho. I hate winter!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
. . . . . . . . . . . . If you are worried that the torque may be off then buy a crows foot wrench that fits your torque wrench and torque the axle nut that way.
That's what I use, I found a set with the larger MM crowsfeet at Sears Online.

I (and a few others on here) adjust my belt to more like 9 to 10mm of deflection. I have no belt whine that way, like I did when it came from the dealer. Kawa manuals say much less deflection than Harley manuals do. Not sure what's up with that cause I bet the belts are made of very similar materials.

Anyhow mine runs better with 3/8+ inches deflection and I personally feel it's better for the belt that way, but that's just me.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
More good info! Thanks guys I'm like a sponge and need all the info I can get my hands on before taking on a project. Love working on the bike. Bought it stock and have made it my own creation. Just added the cobra speedster longs with quiet baffles. Love the sound, still a bit loud but manageable for now. Thinking of adding the hard krome baffles too. Thanks again!
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Can anyone tell me how many teeth are on the OEM front kawi pulley on my 900? Was talking with a buddy and we were trying to figure out what the difference is between the baron 34 tooth pulleys and the stock ones.

Also I have read that I can get up to and maybe beyond a 10% RPM reduction when changing out both front and rear pulleys. Has anyone done this and is it recommended? Is there a power loss by dropping that many RPM's? I know that when changing the front pulley to the 34 tooth i can expect about a 5% reduction in RPM's and the speedo accuracy should be spot on as well. But is that enough to make it worth just changing the front pulley alone? Looking to settle down the vibrations at highway speeds.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,335 Posts
Can anyone tell me how many teeth are on the OEM front kawi pulley on my 900? Was talking with a buddy and we were trying to figure out what the difference is between the baron 34 tooth pulleys and the stock ones.

Also I have read that I can get up to and maybe beyond a 10% RPM reduction when changing out both front and rear pulleys. Has anyone done this and is it recommended? Is there a power loss by dropping that many RPM's? I know that when changing the front pulley to the 34 tooth i can expect about a 5% reduction in RPM's and the speedo accuracy should be spot on as well. But is that enough to make it worth just changing the front pulley alone? Looking to settle down the vibrations at highway speeds.
Stock (OEM) are 32 teeth. Rear is 66 (for later reference).

Yes, I have replace both front & rear (approx. 11% improvement). Also, just changed the rear tire to a 200/70 size for an additional 4%. Total change is approx. 15%. Personally I love it. It stretches out the entire gear range. Even in traffic I don't have to shift as often. Then the real benefit is highway cruising.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Price check!

Stock (OEM) are 32 teeth. Rear is 66 (for later reference).

Yes, I have replace both front & rear (approx. 11% improvement). Also, just changed the rear tire to a 200/70 size for an additional 4%. Total change is approx. 15%. Personally I love it. It stretches out the entire gear range. Even in traffic I don't have to shift as often. Then the real benefit is highway cruising.
Just did a price check again for both pulleys. The front baron replacement is $145 which is manageable. But $280 for the rear? Wow, not sure I can justify that one. I also noticed that the baron pulleys are 34th front and 62th on the back, I can understand the front going bigger and the benefits of that. Just not sure why the rear would go smaller?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,130 Posts
Just did a price check again for both pulleys. The front baron replacement is $145 which is manageable. But $280 for the rear? Wow, not sure I can justify that one. I also noticed that the baron pulleys are 34th front and 62th on the back, I can understand the front going bigger and the benefits of that. Just not sure why the rear would go smaller?
A smaller pulley on the rear brings the ratio of engine revolutions down in relation to the rear wheel revolutions. It has the same effect as the larger front pulley.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Of course it does, morning coffee hadn't kicked in yet. Thinking I will probably just do the front pulley come spring and next set of tires go with the 170/80-15 on the rear. Should get me close to a 10% change in RPM I think.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Been a while now...

Felt it was a worth while tool to add to the tool chest. Have used mine several times now. Takes the guess work out of the adjustment.
and hating every moment this winter. Miss riding something terrible. Just about ready to tear into a few projects before spring gets here. First big project is getting that front pulley swapped out. I have a question on the rear tire alignment though. When I had my last set of tires put on the shop said it was pulling to the right and they made adjustments for it. It still seems to be pulling to the right. When I take both hands off the bars it will not drive straight. I have seen a buddy of mine run no handed for quite a ways. I assume it should have something to do with the rear tire alignment possibly? When I do the pulley swap what can I do to verify that the alignment is tracking correctly for the tire and the belt. Any ideas?
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Found my answer...

and hating every moment this winter. Miss riding something terrible. Just about ready to tear into a few projects before spring gets here. First big project is getting that front pulley swapped out. I have a question on the rear tire alignment though. When I had my last set of tires put on the shop said it was pulling to the right and they made adjustments for it. It still seems to be pulling to the right. When I take both hands off the bars it will not drive straight. I have seen a buddy of mine run no handed for quite a ways. I assume it should have something to do with the rear tire alignment possibly? When I do the pulley swap what can I do to verify that the alignment is tracking correctly for the tire and the belt. Any ideas?
Nevermind, I dug into my service manual and found that there are alignment marks on adjusters and swingarm. That should get it straight. Here's what the manual says to do if anyone else wants to know.

*Loosen the left and right belt adjuster locknuts [A].
If the belt is too tight, back out the left and right belt adjuster
nuts , and kick the wheel forward until the belt is
too loose.
*Turn in the left and right belt adjuster nuts evenly until the
drive belt has the correct amount of deflection.
*To keep the belt and wheel aligned, the notch on the left
belt adjuster should align with the same swingarm mark
[C] that the right belt adjuster notch aligns with.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Pulley change is next

Glad your coffee kicked in, I know the feeling.... had to revert back to my 10 speed bicycle days, and the two gear change derailers.... larger sprocket on front, and smaller one on back gave you the highest gear. Have had my 2010 900lt for 3 1/2 years now, several upgrades later, next is the pulley change..... need to get the engine humming smoothly at 70-75, right now 60-65 is the sweet spot. Love the vulcan, hate the gearing..... and this year we are in a drought, so riding almost every day with lack of rain, so can feel your pain about winter, grew up in midwest, would go bonkers now that I'm riding
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Dumb question as I'm new to the cruiser world are their different sizes of pulley like their are for different size of sprockets for a sport bike and if so do they work in kid if the same way???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Nevermind, I dug into my service manual and found that there are alignment marks on adjusters and swingarm. That should get it straight. Here's what the manual says to do if anyone else wants to know.

*Loosen the left and right belt adjuster locknuts [A].
If the belt is too tight, back out the left and right belt adjuster
nuts , and kick the wheel forward until the belt is
too loose.
*Turn in the left and right belt adjuster nuts evenly until the
drive belt has the correct amount of deflection.
*To keep the belt and wheel aligned, the notch on the left
belt adjuster should align with the same swingarm mark
[C] that the right belt adjuster notch aligns with.


I just installed mine yesterday (FRONT). I had the hardest time breaking loose the nut on the pulley. FYI, be ready to wrestle that sucker. My impact wrench didn't do the job so I had to pull out the big breaker bar and use two "c" clamps to hold the pulley from turning. I'd like to know how some of you guys got yours loose, not that it matters now. I tested it out right away on the highway and noticed the difference easily. Anyways, good luck with the install when you do it, you will appreciate it very much.
 

·
Living The Dream
Joined
·
1,512 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
That's what I use, I found a set with the larger MM crowsfeet at Sears Online.

I (and a few others on here) adjust my belt to more like 9 to 10mm of deflection. I have no belt whine that way, like I did when it came from the dealer. Kawa manuals say much less deflection than Harley manuals do. Not sure what's up with that cause I bet the belts are made of very similar materials.

Anyhow mine runs better with 3/8+ inches deflection and I personally feel it's better for the belt that way, but that's just me.
So I am revisiting this thread due to the fact that I have been battling the infamous belt whine since installing the new pulleys front and back. Seemed to remember somewhere reading that the manual calls for really tight specs on the belt, and that some loosen that up a bit. And here it is in your post. 9-10mm deflection should be just about right I think. i was playing around with it up on the lift and it does go away the looser it gets. Just wasn't confident enough to leave it that loose. Well now I am, thanks for your info. I am going to back it of again tonight to the point where it stops whining. i did it last week and it got much better but still there at times. Just gotta go a little more. I am curious thought as to why it didn't do it with the stock pulleys on there?
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top