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Discussion Starter #1
I was asked to start a new thread so the original (50k on stator) would not be highjacked. The premise of the original thread was tips or idea on extending stator life. I'm not a mechanic nor advocating a specific product; I am playing my own hunches with my own money, that is, to see for myself if I never have to replace the stator, and adding my personal observations. This is what I added to the original thread:

"I replaced the 6 year old stock battery with an heavy-duty Shoria (LFX18A1-BS12). When I started the bike this morning (the first night the battery was in place after 40 miles of riding the night before), the fuel pump sounded way loud compared to what I was used to. Next, after the bike fired (a little different from most batteries; bump the starter, then wait 10 seconds, then start; it seems to help the battery work better), there was no high idle. Odd, I thought, in 35 degree F weather after a overnight low of 25 F. Let the bike idle for 15 second, shut it down, fired it back up 30 minutes later. Again, no high idle. I thought I had noticed this last night when I first fired up the bike; it ran high idle, went to a higher idle, then down to the regular idle all within about 10 seconds. Stayed at low idle even after 5 starts during the 40 miles. Took it for a short, 3 mile ride after the two cold starts above; shut her down, restarted warm, and she wanted to go to high idle but didn't. Hmmmm.

My theory is, a start is hard on a battery; if the battery is starting to go, the idle stays high, even if the bike is warm or it is warm outside, to help ensure adequate charging of the battery and the running of the electrical systems. If that is the case, then that can be very hard on the stator/regulator and shorten life span. Just a hunch, I'll see what happens during the year. "

To add more thoughts, if memory serves, the battery also helps to augment the electrical system while the vehicle is running, sort of serving like the overflow until the regulator kicks in and also a reservoir for when the stator system is overloaded (idle with lots of non-stock draw). If so, then the weaker or less capable the battery to work as the overflow or reservoir, regardless of new or old, the more undue stress is put on the stator, thus shortening the life span of the stator.
 

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OK I will start the questions.
Where did you get it, store or online.
Did you happen to do a volt test before you installed the new battery?:cool:

I looked around when I got my bike but battery's with a higher rating would not fit the case. I lost the stator at 14 months so the battery took a hit and is now showing some lose of voltage, so it is a great time to look at a higher capacity unit.

Done some searching for this technology and most reports are good to glowing. I know the weight issue is not relevant when you are on a 650 + pound bike but the extra power capacity would be great.

I do a lot of stop and go riding with long periods of idle at city intersections as well as short trips, which does not really provide enough recharge time to the lead acid battery.

I for one think there may be something to all of your theorems

To many good things about this, to not consider.

Maybe some of the pro's will chime in with there thought's is there such thing as too much power from a battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I purchased the battery from Rocky Mountain ATV. I was about to purchase it online when I realized that I was going right past their main warehouse the next day, so I picked it up there. The Shoria main site wanted $190, Rocky $170 with free shipping. I went with the heavy duty version because, even without any extra draw, I was going to be doing a lot of commuting with the bike along with lots of rides and wanted that extra peace of mind. A base lead acid replacement from Western Power Sports was $65 and their sealed version $100 (this is what my local NAPA carries); most other sites I checked had sealed batteries with names I didn't recognize, and I have used unknown batteries for other applications in the past with little success. I figured if I spent a little more now for a very good battery, I could possibly extend the stator life, which would put me money ahead in the long run.

I don't own a volt meter; the literature that came with the battery stated it was at a 90% charge from the factory. Started right up with no hesitation or slow starting. It is much lighter and much smaller than the stock; used a few of the shims they sent to snug it into place.

Again, from what I have read, there is a thing as too much voltage; between 12.9v to 14v is considered good. Anything below 12.3v or above 15v prolonged indicates something very wrong somewhere.
 

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My theory is, a start is hard on a battery; if the battery is starting to go, the idle stays high, even if the bike is warm or it is warm outside, to help ensure adequate charging of the battery and the running of the electrical systems.
The ECU is not smart enough to do that.
Also, I have found that as a battery grows old, it is actually more reluctant to take a charging current than when new. (more internal resistance)

I am interested in your new battery. Keep us posted on the day to day performance of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If the ecu is not smart enough to do see a high discharge need variable (allow high idle), then what other controller on the bike could disallow high idle, especially at low temp? Regulator? I'm at a loss as to what else could be controling the idle issue. I wish I hadn't discarded the old battery (left it with the rest of the old batteries at the local NAPA last Friday) so I could hook it up to the bike to see what occurs. If not to recharge the battery, what would be the need for high idle? Most Ford vehicles have a high idle at startup for emmission purposes (my 2000 Windstar idles at 2500 rpm at 20F; the reason is to get heat to the catalytic converter quickly so the cats can begin working sooner); does the Vulcan 900 have cats? If so, then why would the battery change negate the high idle for emmission purposes? Has anyone put in a new battery this season experienced the same thing as me? (Wow, I'm full of questions, or possibly just full of it :D).

I let the bike sit from Saturday afternoon thru Monday morning (Sat low, 28F; Sun high, 58F; Mon low, 32F). So after 36 hours of non use and with the temp still at 32F, fired up the bike with no bump; fired right up with no high idle, just the regular idle. I have the regular idle on the bike set to just barely high enough to keep what I perceive as piston slap at bay. Tonight I'm going to set the regular idle to barely run and see what she does the next morning (low tonight is supposed to be low 30s F).
 

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Tonight I'm going to set the regular idle to barely run and see what she does the next morning (low tonight is supposed to be low 30s F).
Beware setting the idle too low. IIRC the recommended idle speed for your bike is 950 R.P.M.'s and if you set it below that you risk running your oil pressure too low and starving the top end from getting the necessary lubrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah, yes, very true and thank you, Comet. I don't want to do that on a cold engine, regardless of the oil used. Guess I'll think of something else. Hmmm.
 

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i want to get one of them new fangeled lithium batteries ... but id like to find one that actually fills (or near fills) the battery compartment....i think the extra capacity would help since i run a stereo ....
 

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i want to get one of them new fangeled lithium batteries ... but id like to find one that actually fills (or near fills) the battery compartment....i think the extra capacity would help since i run a stereo ....
I checked the size of the case before I ordered, the 18 amp case is only slightly smaller than the OEM battery. The battery comes with foam shims to protect and snug the battery in the case. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There are two batteries for the Vulcan from Shoria; base and heavy-duty. This link should answer your question, Big. http://www.shoraipower.com/s-228669-VN900-Vulcan-All.aspx

The 18 amp is substantial smaller than the stock lead-acid; I used five different shims for a snug, snug fit.
 

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i had a missing high idle and it turned out to be the trottle binding a little in the switch housing. found it accidently changing my grips.
 

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King43, do yourself a favor and find a heated garage somewhere and leave it there over night. See what happens when you start it in the morning. The fast idle is driven by a small servo motor attached to your throttle body. It takes it's cue from the ECU. If your mechanic removes the air cleaner, including the backing plate, and you look at the front facing part of the throttle body you will see a "half teardrop" looking disc that is up against the throttle linkage. Turn on the ignition and that disc should move against the trottle linkage opening the throttle plates just a little. The ECU takes its cue from the inlet air temperature as to how much fuel to inject into the engine during cold start up. That combo gives you an idle that won't stall the engine during warm up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sojourner, since I do not have access to a heated garage, what would be the result? No high idle, I suspect. And.......why then would I no longer have a high idle at 35F temps and a cold start when I have had a high idle at 60F+ temps and cold starts all of last year, which was my first year with the bike? The only variable change I have between then and now is the battery (same gas, same oil, same air filter, same ECU, etc). Could the inlet air temp sensor have gone bad over the winter? Possible. If so, how can one verify that this sensor has gone bad so as to remove a variable? Or the servo motor? If the air sensor is fine, then what other variables are there to explain why there is no high idle when there was high idle before? I'm just trying to find the why. If it is the battery, great. If it isn't and this is just a fluke of timing with something else going wrong, great, we've narrowed it down and I know the real reason.

Tomorrow night, after work, I'm going to take off the throttle grip and check for binding as capttom suggested; I do have an aftermarket grip with throttle lock. Also I can see if the servo is moving the throttle cables at all, for last year I could feel that and see it in action. This weekend is supposed to be highs in the 40s and lows in the mid 20s, so there will be colder weather to work with again.
 

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Sorry to interrupt. But, as I have no intention of altering my stock pipes, have paid little attention to those threads.

However, reviewing in passing, it was my understanding that debaffled, or "straight" pipes required a fuel processor/commander for everything to run correctly. Please correct me if wrong.
 

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Sorry to interrupt. But, as I have no intention of altering my stock pipes, have paid little attention to those threads.

However, reviewing in passing, it was my understanding that debaffled, or "straight" pipes required a fuel processor/commander for everything to run correctly. Please correct me if wrong.
:confused: I think you posted to the wrong thread.

This tread started out as a question as to the validity of the KAWASAKI statement that the HIGH IDLE we all experience, every time you start your bike, even in 110 degree weather, is because of engine temp sensor. The theory presented by king43, which I agree with, is the voltage is also monitored and High Idle, is used to bring the battery back up to high charge. The new battery being discussed put's out 13.3 volts even after a long starter draw, this seems to display that the voltage has an effect.

King43 has resolved his issue with the idle, to his amazement, and was kind enough to inform the forum. My hope is when the weather clears for him he will enjoy the bike even more than before. Without the "ANGRY BIKE SYNDROME"

This issue will not be solved by anything short of people getting the battery and proving it to themselves, mine will arrive on thursday and the testing will begin.

I live in a HOT part of Texas and generally ride all year. I know for a fact that the high idle will kick in way over 55 degrees, as it happens at 105.

If king43 says his high idle is not kicking in at cooler temps with the higher capacity battery I believe him. Only more participation or a statement from Kawasaki will provide the proof some people will require.

I realize the price difference will cause a lot of people to decide against going this route and that is ok. But I can do the change and am sick of the high idle and do not believe modification of parts is a valid solution, a working solution YES, but you should not have to be an electrician or a mechanic or a fabricator to ride a bike

First rule DON'T SWEAT THE SMALL STUFF. Second rule IT'S ALL SMALL STUFF.
 

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Sojourner, since I do not have access to a heated garage, what would be the result? No high idle, I suspect. And.......why then would I no longer have a high idle at 35F temps and a cold start when I have had a high idle at 60F+ temps and cold starts all of last year, which was my first year with the bike? The only variable change I have between then and now is the battery (same gas, same oil, same air filter, same ECU, etc). Could the inlet air temp sensor have gone bad over the winter? Possible. If so, how can one verify that this sensor has gone bad so as to remove a variable? Or the servo motor? If the air sensor is fine, then what other variables are there to explain why there is no high idle when there was high idle before? I'm just trying to find the why. If it is the battery, great. If it isn't and this is just a fluke of timing with something else going wrong, great, we've narrowed it down and I know the real reason.

Tomorrow night, after work, I'm going to take off the throttle grip and check for binding as capttom suggested; I do have an aftermarket grip with throttle lock. Also I can see if the servo is moving the throttle cables at all, for last year I could feel that and see it in action. This weekend is supposed to be highs in the 40s and lows in the mid 20s, so there will be colder weather to work with again.
If you see the grip moving when the ignition is turned on then your cables are too tight. This can be adjusted at the grip. Testing the fast idle in a heated environment at least proves that what worked all last year (your first year with the bike) is no longer working under the same conditions. The colder the engine is the more fuel clings to the walls of the intake ports and doesn't burn. Carburetors have a choke system that richened the cold start to compensate for the non atomized fuel entering the combustion chamber. FI works it differently using the ECU to increase the amount of fuel during cold start ups but also requires additional air to pass the throttle plates. Honda uses what's called a WAX valve to accomplish this but Kwak uses a servo motor to crack open the throttle plates just a little. Trouble shooting is a systematic means to rule out the obvious possibilities first then dig into the more complicated ones. Posters here have given you a work sheet to start with. Don't discount anything until you've tried it and don't give up if it doesn't fix the problem. Good luck.
 

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Hey King43, more fuel, went out at lunch today, 70 here in dallas, yea i know don't rub it in, paid close attention to the start up routine. Key on felt throttle bump twice then release (ok did not notice that before), hit starter engine starts, and again felt the slight bump of the throttle twice (also never felt this as usually the throttle is twisting in the wind by now), this time the idle jumps up, and stayed high, until my volt gauge showed full charge, then idle droped to normal.
This is different from the way i normally treat the startup, got so fed up with the idle that i got to the point of just start it and go (and i use valved oil filter so no problem).

With the warm temp's here, after I put on the battery this weekend I hope to not have any High Idle, at least one can hope. But hey I need a new battery anyway so why not.
 

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:
which I agree with, is the voltage is also monitored and High Idle, is used to bring the battery back up to high charge. The new battery being discussed put's out 13.3 volts even after a long starter draw, this seems to display that the voltage has an effect.




I
If that were true, then when the engine suffers a stator failure and the charging voltage never comes up, then the bike would be stuck on high idle until the stator is replaced.
 

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If that were true, then when the engine suffers a stator failure and the charging voltage never comes up, then the bike would be stuck on high idle until the stator is replaced.
That would be assuming there was no time limit on any action.
The high idle does not remain on when a stator goes out. Which I can attest to since mine went out at 6500, and yes it kicked to ultra high every time I started it, then would drop but I did not think to time it, silly me. The high idle for cold does not last longer than two minutes, and any timer would be available to the ECU for any reason, and since the same step motor would be used is probably automatic.

The low voltage idle theory is just that, a theory, to be proven or dis proven, it cannot be logically proven or dis proven, with out a statement from MAW KAW this will have to be researched and verified by many people. Mine will come soon.

This thread was started by my request to King43 in an effort to introduce the new battery tech mainly. The low voltage idle theory is in response to his observations upon using the battery for the first time and after, many threads that have been posted over the years, and my own longing for a bike that behaves when started on a hot day.

I thank King43 for the info, as I looked into the battery and find a far superior replacement for something we all have to replace sooner or later. From reports and reviews that may be much later with this new battery.
 

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The battery that the op stated is great. I am running it on my sports bike and it always starts up now. But I still do experience the high idle. But only one cold mornings. An yes the fact about the new battery working better once it is even slightly warm is true. Just use the horn or something and start it up. Or leave the bike on the on position gear up and then start it. Always works for me.
 
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