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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a 2008 Vulcan 900 classic. When I went to pick it up it was already running. I drove it and then turned it off. Had to jump it to get it started again. Seller gave me back $100 for a new battery. Got home replaced the battery and started the bike fine. With key off and removed, Three hours later I attempted to start the bike, it started to turn over and then clicking. Put an amp meter inline to check for battery drain. Key off meter showed 11mA. Removed all fused one at a time and Amp drain reduced to 10mA. Started bike and voltage at battery jumps to about 14.6. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Most likely, something got added to a battery circuit instead of an ignition circuit. First thing I would do is contact the seller to see what accessories they added. If they can't/won't help, time to be a detective and search. Then disconnect them one at a time with the amp meter still connected to find out which is the drain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The only thing added was a battery tender. I’ve been monitoring it tonight since I got to work. First reading almost immediately after turning it off was high but since then pretty stable. 12:10am. 14.39v
1:14am. 12.84v
2:27am. 12.81v
3:21am. 12.80v
The only thing I can think of at this point is possibly I pinched a wire when putting the tool tray back on after replacing the battery.
 

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I have a 2008 Vulcan Custom 900 I purchased used from a dealer in 2015. I too noticed a slight battery drain on mine. Not saying this is your issue but I discovered a small flashing light coming from the bike in my dark garage one night. I removed the seat and right side cover and found a small device which was attached to the battery. I ran the serial number on the device and discovered it was a GPS unit typically used by dealerships and finance companies to track vehicles (I paid cash). I removed it and no more power drain. I've long since discarded it otherwise I would have posted a picture. It was approximately 1.5"x 3"x 1/4". Worth a little digging around to see if this is the culprit to save your battery and privacy.
 

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The only thing added was a battery tender. I’ve been monitoring it tonight since I got to work. First reading almost immediately after turning it off was high but since then pretty stable. 12:10am. 14.39v
1:14am. 12.84v
2:27am. 12.81v
3:21am. 12.80v
The only thing I can think of at this point is possibly I pinched a wire when putting the tool tray back on after replacing the battery.
After coming off being charged battery voltage normally declines but at some point should stabilise. With your situation a simple test would be to disconnect the battery from the motorcycle leads/cables, charge it and measure the voltage after perhaps an hour or so, let it sit overnight (or perhaps overday in your case) measure the voltage again and of course record the figures. Then reconnect the battery to the motorcycle cables and go through the charging and allowing it to sit process again and again record the readings. In both situations the readings should be comparatively close. There are functions on the 900 which use a minuscule amount of battery power when the ignition switch is off but those should not measurably affect battery voltage overnight. Obviously if there is a comparative voltage discrepancy between when the battery is disconnected and when connected then there is some sort of parasitic voltage drain.
 

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I have an 07 custom....when I got this bike used I had to start with the most likely causes of battery drain as well. Ended up being really dirty connection THROUGHOUT the system . Oil , crud , grease , and some corrosion in connections. Cleaned out all my harness connections with electrical contact spray. Rewired after market led rail light strip properly, and soldered all the aftermarket lights and stuff that were put on very sloppy.....no crimp connectors, no shrink tubing.. Anyway , after giving the bike a thorough going over and getting it "tightened up", it's been great. Never buy a used bike the guy has warmed up and running when you get there. Not that you may not have still bought it, but it's a salesmans trick to warm it up so it runs nice and smooth, but I wanna see how the bike acts ice cold. If it has issues, they'll usually give you a few clues on a cold start. Like not holding enough charge to crank it up more than once...Mine leaked fork oil and it was blowing back on the bike at high speeds , combined with road grime and dirt had created filthy grease that was in the rectifier harness among other things and gave me low juice. Also let me know the former owner didn't maintenance the bike very well. How long had that leak been there? Long enough to create a whole new problem. Anyway, good luck
 

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Dont know if 10-11mA parasitic load is normal or not for the bike, but I do know that 10-11mA drain, itself, is not enough to cause starting problem in just 3 hours.

There is something else at play.

Sure the new battery fully charged at the time of installation?
 

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OK having a problem with your statement -
" Key off meter showed 11mA. Removed all fused one at a time and Amp drain reduced to 10mA. Started bike and voltage at battery jumps to about 14.6. Any help would be greatly appreciated."

You measured 11mA draw and reduced it to 10 mA with a fuse pull and that was enough to start the engine??
A 1 mA change would not do that.

Sure the voltage went up to 14.6 when started. The charging system started at that point.

When it doesnt start does the voltage drop below 11 volts?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No, sorry I had charged the battery after it wouldn’t start. There was 12.8 v before starting it then of course the charging system jumped it up to 14.7v. That, I believe just proved the voltage regulator is doing its job. Oddly enough I haven’t had the problem since. Maybe just a weak battery off the shelf. And the charge was all it needed. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
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