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Discussion Starter #1
2006 900 Classic
Replaced stator 2 years ago.
New battery last year.
I put in on the charger and it shows it was fully charged, used a DMM and battery voltage reads 12.83 with key off, then drops to 12.45 with key on.
Now here's the rub when I try to start it it gives me the old click click that the battery is dead.

Any idea where I should start troubleshooting this issue?

TIA!
 

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first eliminate the issue with the battery, use another battery that you know is working good and booster start the bike with that one, if the bike still goes click/click then you can eliminate the battery as the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't have another battery to try, what if I disconnect the battery and just connected it to my truck with jumper cables to simulate another battery?
 

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I don't have another battery to try, what if I disconnect the battery and just connected it to my truck with jumper cables to simulate another battery?
12 volts is 12 volts, so sure -- but even easier would be to load test the battery. Hook up your voltmeter again and hit the starter. If the battery drops significantly -- like, low 10's or lower -- it's toast. If not, it's something else.

Motorcycle batteries are tiny compared to auto batteries, and they age fast if not kept on a tender. As soon as a battery's internal voltage drops below about 10.8 volts (can't remember the exact number, but it's close to that), it's aging very rapidly, and the lower it goes, the faster it dies. In other words, "new battery last year" is meaningless in this context, annoying though that may be.
 

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Trainermb is right on. You need to test the battery under load. You didn't say if it was a lead/acid battery, but if it is you should check the fluid level of the cells. You could always jump it with a car battery. But DO NOT have the car running like you would if you were jumping a car.

Another thing to check is your starter switch. My 500 would intermittently do the "click-click" when I tried to start it. I took the starter button apart and cleaned up the contacts. There's a spring inside of the assembly so be careful not to lose it if you go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I believe the battery is a Gel battery and I will load test it tomorrow after I get up.
Thanks again for the quick and detailed response!
 

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Just for more info -
Even IF the voltage reading is OK, above 12.5 volts, doesn't mean the battery has the power (cranking amps) to turn the motor over and start it.
This is true even if you just charged the battery.
Volts and amps are not the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Put the DMM on the battery and cranked the bike and the volts dropped to 7.55.... So it's safe to assume my battery is toast. I then removed the battery and connected jumper cables to the bike and it clicked like a dead battery a few times then started, not sure why it did that. I'm going to get a new battery and see if this helps my situation.
 

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It might be handy to know why the "new last year" battery is toast now.

How long was it sitting? What is the temperature of the storage location?

Did you have a trickle charger on it (like a battery tender)?

How was the bike acting before you parked it for the winter - any starting issues? Anything weird happen then?

It could be that your "new last year" battery was just crap to start with...what brand is it? Do you trust the retailer who sold it to you...ie: could it have been "old stock" when you received it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It might be handy to know why the "new last year" battery is toast now.

How long was it sitting? What is the temperature of the storage location?

Did you have a trickle charger on it (like a battery tender)?

How was the bike acting before you parked it for the winter - any starting issues? Anything weird happen then?

It could be that your "new last year" battery was just crap to start with...what brand is it? Do you trust the retailer who sold it to you...ie: could it have been "old stock" when you received it?
I was mistaken battery was older than last year, it is about 3 years old according to the sticker in it. Bike was fine last time I rode, I live in NC so it doesn't get put away for winter. Coldest it's been here is the high 30's but that was only 1 or 2 days.
I didn't have the battery on a trickle but I will make that happen going forward once I get a new battery.
The battery is a Advance Auto house brand so I do trust that it was a decent battery.
 

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Batteries vary a lot in their life expectancies. With my '07 900 I had one unbranded Chinese battery last for 5 years and a branded (PowerSonic Sports) battery and a Caltric battery last for 2 years. Contacted Power Sonic and they said that is all the life that one can expect from their battery - both it and the Caltric were made in China. The OEM Yuasa lasted for only two years as well - I suspect that the motorcycle dealer had allowed it to sit with the bike without being recharged and so it sulfated. My bike is ridden year around as well.
 

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you can booster start the bike with your good truck battery, if it's 12 volt battery it would work, if the bike goes click-click again then you can eliminate your bike battery as the problem
 

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Discussion Starter #13
you can booster start the bike with your good truck battery, if it's 12 volt battery it would work, if the bike goes click-click again then you can eliminate your bike battery as the problem

I did this and it clicked at first then started.
 

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Yup 3 years is about right for a battery. Sometimes more, sometimes less. I had a battery on my SV650 that lasted almost 7 years. I would recommend replacing your gel with an AGM. They aren't much more than a standard battery these days. They perform best when you have them charged with a battery tender every couple of weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yup 3 years is about right for a battery. Sometimes more, sometimes less. I had a battery on my SV650 that lasted almost 7 years. I would recommend replacing your gel with an AGM. They aren't much more than a standard battery these days. They perform best when you have them charged with a battery tender every couple of weeks.

I'm placing an order for an AGM battery straight away, really want to ride my bike.
 

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The ATMs tend to be a better battery, but I did have one that lasted less than 2 years. It was a AGM type sold dry. I kept the bike on a tender when not in use. All batteries these days are hit and miss.
 

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I would also recommend keeping your bike on a trickle charger anytime you are not riding it. I keep my bike in the garage and the only times it is not on the trickle charger, is when I'm riding it, or I'm working on it. I bought it with an Interstate AGM battery already installed. I've had it for over 1.5 years now with zero problems.
 

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Not just trickle charger, you want a 3/4 amp smart charger with a pulse function to help knock sulfation off the plates. I have several Noco Genius 750 smart chargers. There may be better out there, but these are affordable and if used every week or 10 days will help batteries last for years. They can be left on all the time with small power draw and no overcharging problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not just trickle charger, you want a 3/4 amp smart charger with a pulse function to help knock sulfation off the plates. I have several Noco Genius 750 smart chargers. There may be better out there, but these are affordable and if used every week or 10 days will help batteries last for years. They can be left on all the time with small power draw and no overcharging problems.

This is what I use.
Schumacher SC-600A-CA 6/4/2 Amp Charger And Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H94F6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kRPmCbZ3HAKSN
 
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