Main fuse blown?
Battery charged, voltmeter 12.5 but bike dead
Battery is fully charged according to charger. Voltmeter reads 12.5 but bike is completely dead. No lights, nothing. Bad battery? Checked all connections are tight. Just cut off completely while riding.
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I thought about that. Pulled off the side cover and the 30 amp is ok but the main I wasn’t ready to mess with but that’s possible. I’ll check that tomorrow and thanks!
Does the battery voltage drop from 12.5V when you try to start it?
Tried that but there is absolutely no power so nothing happens. I know a bad battery can charge as good but still lack the amperage. I’m gonna test it again later as in afterthought I did not get anything from the terminals themselves but got the 12.5 reading when lying the tester leads FLAT against the BOTTOM of the terminals, not the parts where the wires connect at the top. But I find it strange that there’s absolutly no power. Will check the main fuse too, have not done that yet.Does the battery voltage drop from 12.5V when you try to start it?
Remove everything from the battery and clean the terminals.
Lead can get a covering that doesnt allow for a good connection.
Even use sandpaper on them and anything you connect to the battery.
Then when you push the start button measure the volts - under 11 volts it most likely not going to last long!!
Lead can get a covering that doesnt allow for a good connection.
Even use sandpaper on them and anything you connect to the battery.
Then when you push the start button measure the volts - under 11 volts it most likely not going to last long!!
Turns out the main fuse blew. I put a new fuse in, and reinstalled the battery (had it out for testing) but when I attempted to secure the negative cables to the battery, it sounded like the fuel injectors were firing up but not shutting off and then I saw gas guzzling out through the air filter. I am assuming now maybe the fuel injectors are defective and thats what tripped the fuse? Any thoughts? The bike was getting rotten mileage and I did hear an increase in popping from the exhaust when downshifting.Remove everything from the battery and clean the terminals.
Lead can get a covering that doesnt allow for a good connection.
Even use sandpaper on them and anything you connect to the battery.
Then when you push the start button measure the volts - under 11 volts it most likely not going to last long!!
Personally, I doubt it's the injectors themselves.
If you don't have a service manual I strongly recommend it at this point. Quite likely it's going to save you $$ and headaches going forward.
If you don't have a service manual I strongly recommend it at this point. Quite likely it's going to save you $$ and headaches going forward.
Hi Thor,
- The 30 amp fuse IS the main fuse.
- Also what bike are we discussing here? You said it has fuel injectors, you heard them operating and fuel dumped from the air box. The fuel dump sounds like a fuel pump on a carbed unit with stuck floats.
- What fuse did you find burned then? Main DFI?
- Replacing a burned fuse without determining where the short ground is at is not recommended. You will either continue to burn fuses (in this case more dangerous with a leaking fuel issue) or create a situation where you damage a component that a burned fuse is intended to protect or leave yourself stranded far from the comforts of home or any of a combination of these.
- The injectors can only be pulsed by the ECU with a signal from the pulse coil/s. IF the injectors were grounded and remained open then you could get flooding but only if the pump is grounded as well and running.
- The pump and injectors are grounded by the ECU via signals and safety circuits. If the ECU is being bypassed as the ground control then you have to look where these circuits share connections for the problem. That would be the ECU connector
Agree. As I think and get feedback it certainly seems to be an electrical issue of some sort.Personally, I doubt it's the injectors themselves.
If you don't have a service manual I strongly recommend it at this point. Quite likely it's going to save you $$ and headaches going forward.
It turned out was the main DFI. The sound (live in a heavy traffic area so sound is often muted) is like the injectors priming but a bit quieter and does not stop. Normally they would prime when ignition is set to on and prime for a few seconds. I found that in one occasion the week before, before the main blew, turned the key and the priming would not stop till I turned the key off and tried again, then ok. I appreciate the feedback as I do feel it’s electrical and share all the same Concerns. Electrical has always been a bit over my head but I may consult with a mechanic and at least have some direction to point him in.Hi Thor,
- The 30 amp fuse IS the main fuse.
- Also what bike are we discussing here? You said it has fuel injectors, you heard them operating and fuel dumped from the air box. The fuel dump sounds like a fuel pump on a carbed unit with stuck floats.
- What fuse did you find burned then? Main DFI?
- Replacing a burned fuse without determining where the short ground is at is not recommended. You will either continue to burn fuses (in this case more dangerous with a leaking fuel issue) or create a situation where you damage a component that a burned fuse is intended to protect or leave yourself stranded far from the comforts of home or any of a combination of these.
- The injectors can only be pulsed by the ECU with a signal from the pulse coil/s. IF the injectors were grounded and remained open then you could get flooding but only if the pump is grounded as well and running.
- The pump and injectors are grounded by the ECU via signals and safety circuits. If the ECU is being bypassed as the ground control then you have to look where these circuits share connections for the problem. That would be the ECU connector
If I understand correctly, the you connected the battery after you replaced the fuse and the fuel started dumping even without turning the key on? If that is correct, then it sounds like you have a short in the key switch. Except for some aftermarket accessory that runs straight from the battery, nothing should get power with the key in the off position.
Well, to amend the above statement, I think some Kawasaki models may have power to the accessory connectors even with the key off. It's always a good idea to give the model and year (and miles, what work has been done recently, etc.) when starting a new thread. Differences between models can make a big difference.
Well, to amend the above statement, I think some Kawasaki models may have power to the accessory connectors even with the key off. It's always a good idea to give the model and year (and miles, what work has been done recently, etc.) when starting a new thread. Differences between models can make a big difference.
Based on things that were happening prior to, this all makes sense. I had issues when I would turn the key to the on position, the injectors would prime but when I went to start it nothing happened. I thought it was the kill switch which I do in fact use. I would turn key ignition to on, kill switch to on, and nothing happened when pressing start. After toggling the kill a few times then it would start. Someone mentioned cleaning the contacts on the kill but I cant get the screw out to open the case. 2009 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 classic. I think on my model when key is off, everything is disconnected from power.If I understand correctly, the you connected the battery after you replaced the fuse and the fuel started dumping even without turning the key on? If that is correct, then it sounds like you have a short in the key switch. Except for some aftermarket accessory that runs straight from the battery, nothing should get power with the key in the off position.
Well, to amend the above statement, I think some Kawasaki models may have power to the accessory connectors even with the key off. It's always a good idea to give the model and year (and miles, what work has been done recently, etc.) when starting a new thread. Differences between models can make a big difference.
Hi Thor,
- When you turn the key on the sound you hear is the FUEL PUMP. The injectors can't operate as there is no signal from the pulse/trigger/signal coils located within the engine at the magneto rotor/fly wheel.
- There is continuous battery positive supplied to three circuits when the key is off: 1) Cooling fan. 2) ECU. 3) Accessory. All three circuits are independently fused.
- The fuel dump is a mystery. If you have a CARB(Cali Emissions Equipped) bike the canister may be full and pushing raw tank overflow into the airbox. Otherwise there should be no reason for fuel to be making it's way into the airbox. Unless there is an incorrect aftermarket install of some device. Are you sure it was from the airbox and not the tank breather? Was this fuel dump after a recent refueling?
The bike isn’t carbed and I put a quarter tank fuel in about 4 days prior to this and used it for the following 4 days, very short trips. The fuel came gushing out from behind the engine air filter cover. After disconnecting the positive I took off that cover and the air filter was soaked Therefore leading me to believe it came from in there. No aftermarket install other than Vance and Hines which have been there since I bought the bike years ago. One response suggested it may be the ignition switch and I did have odd issues with either that or the kill for a couple weeks prior to. Can’t say for sure which one. Another suggested something with the ECU grounds.
Sounds to me like you have a fuel line that has burst of come loose between the pump & injectors. As stated above the injectors can only operate when they have a pulse signal when the engine is running. The sound you are hearing is the fuel pump trying to pressurize the system before starting.
If bike does nothing when you press start button, check kickstand switch, clutch switch, or most likely kill switch, since you did mention you toggled it and you had power. you must verify these are working.
If bike does nothing when you press start button, check kickstand switch, clutch switch, or most likely kill switch, since you did mention you toggled it and you had power. you must verify these are working.
I’ll check that out today, thanks.Sounds to me like you have a fuel line that has burst of come loose between the pump & injectors. As stated above the injectors can only operate when they have a pulse signal when the engine is running. The sound you are hearing is the fuel pump trying to pressurize the system before starting.
If bike does nothing when you press start button, check kickstand switch, clutch switch, or most likely kill switch, since you did mention you toggled it and you had power. you must verify these are working.
I found the main connection to the battery’s positive terminal very loose. Bad terminal nut. Replaced the nut, reconnected and no more fuel dump. It’s possible the negative terminal wires all being connected correctly but not the positive side created the fuel pump malfunction. BUT there’s still a short. New main fuse immediately blows with no key in ignition. I’ll have to research that starting with the ECU and my knowledge of the bike.
Very interesting reading. Do you guys think that this could be caused by a bad ECU? What could be drawing more than 30 amps with no key?
It is not the ECU. If the main fuse (30 amp), is blowing when the battery is connected then you must use the process of elimination. Start by removing 30 amp main fuse, then disconnecting the positive (red) wire at the starter relay, then unplug the two reg, rectifier, (white plugs w/3 wires), left side above stator cover, then remove ignition switch and unplug wiring harness to it. Replace 30 amp main fuse and start working back, check the fuse every time you make a connection.
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