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Discussion Starter #1
i have just swaped the pulley but i cant seem to remove the belt guide from the inner cover. it seems with the new pulley the belt will be touching the guide and i am wondering if this is an issue or will the belt be fine

the bolts holding the guide on seem to be torqued down quite alot which makes it really hard to remove them without rounding them
 

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I assume from your description the pulley swap was the front pulley...going from stock 32 to OD 34. (Just to make things clear).

You need to removed the belt guide...not enough room for the OD pulley.

Take your time, brace the cover securely (in a vise per say well protected to avoid scratches and not over tighten to cause warping) and with the appropriate socket and ratchet you'll be able to remove the 2 bolts. You can use some penetrating fluid and/or heat to help out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yea i tried everything but the bolts were just rounding so i just used a chisel to pry the low friction surface off which seems to work without issue and if i ever need to remove the metal bracket i could just go to any garrage with the proper tools and have it removed. i still need to tighen the belt up properly which i am getting a lift delivered to help with and then i will beable to try it out at highspeed and confirm that it works or not
 

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Discussion Starter #4
after installing the pulley and tensioning it to 4-6mm using a 10lb gauge i am getting some noise like a whine which wasnt there when i first tensioned it to about 9mm before i got my lift.
does this mean the wheel is out of alignment or that it's too tight?
the axle alignment is reading just past half way on the second mark on both sides.
could this also be due to the axle nut being too tight? i dont have a torque wrench to i have to guess by hand
 

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The folks on this site think that 4-6mm of belt flex at 10lbs is way too tight. I tend to agree. I'm running around 10-12mm, IIRC. The Kawi spec for the belt tension is a bit ridiculous, really.

As for the belt alignment...you can keep an eye on where the belt tracks on the rear pulley. It "should" run somewhat to the left side (the outside) of the rear pulley...kinda tracking right along the left edge of the pulley bumping up against the pulley flange, slightly.

As a starting place, I did not use the hash marks on the frame, but used a calliper on the adjustment bolt that protrudes out towards the back of the bike - I measured the length of the bolt that hung out to the rear of the bike, to the rear of the locknut. Start there, and then do fine-tuning of the belt tracking as above.

I highly doubt you could have torqued the rear axle nut to much...the spec for that nut is 79.7 ft/lbs - which is pretty darn tight....something like a wheel lug nut torque.

As always...E&OE - use at your own risk.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i think kawasaki and other OEM's always over do things to cover their asses if anything happens. tomorrow when i get up i will painstakingly remove the axle locking pin and loosen the belt to maybe 7-9mm and see if i get any squeal or not
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
ok after a bit of tweaking i seems to be getting a sound like the bike is struggling to move when at low speed, say 5-10 mph.
the belt seems to be aligned but i cant find any other reason for the noise but it doesn't sound very healthy so i am reluctant to keep ignoring it for much longer in case i endup damaging the bike

Edit: could this be caused by the the break pads contacting the disk slightly?
 

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If you have a jack or lift to get the rear tire off the ground. In neutral you can turn the rear wheel by hand to feel for any tight spots or dragging. Can also start it up put in gear and listen for the noise, (hard to locate noise source when riding). May not make a noise when not under load with the weight of the bike and rider, but worth the try.

WB
 
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