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Installed today. Was mot a drop in fit. Outer cover had to be ground slightly. RPMs greatly reduced at 70mph. When running 80 to 85 I still think it seems I am passing people closer to 70 or 75. So not sure on correction of speedo. Big loss in take off torque. My classic doesn't have much of that to begin with but much less of it now after the pulley swap. Stock pulley going back on and taking this money and putting on commander IIs instead. Looks the pulley will be going to the classifieds.
 

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Have not really read many complaints about the pulley.Thank you for the review.I have been putting much thought into getting one myself but do not want to lose the take off and low end torque.First I have heard of the outer cover not fitting with the Barons pulley. Did you remove the piece (belt keeper,guard) that is inside the cover?This piece needs to be removed when installing a larger front pulley.
 

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Barons front pulley

I had my Baron's front pulley installed several months ago and I am very happy with the result. The gearing is much better, I'm commuting to work on my VN900 classic, so when stuck in Sydney traffic, the gearing is now much better (3'rd or 4th) when hovering around 40-60kph. School zones in Sydney are 40kph speed limit. With the stock pulley I constantly felt to switch gear at those speeds and it never quite felt right, i.e wishing for a 2.5 or 3.5 gear, i.e. 40kph in 3rd was just too high a gear (engine lugging) and in 2nd it buzzed. Now it's pretty much spot on. I didn't feel the loss of take off that much, first gear is now actually usable, don't feel like I have to shift up straight after take off. At 80-100kph, definitely an improvement and not so buzzy! Speedo was out by 8-10kph with stock, i.e. reading faster than I was actually going, now it's spot on! I think adding at least a front pulley should be a standard mod. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I gave it to mechanic to mechanic to do. Not sure about removing that piece or not. It does help in traffic not having to shift as much. And not as busy at higher speeds. However the loss of low end torque and even mid range torque out weighs all that for me. But I am coming from an HD.
 

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Why replace the front pulley if it's not a drop in fit? Wouldn't it be simpler to replace the rear pulley and get the same reduction?
 

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The front belt guard needs to be removed (unscrew 2 bolts) when installing the Baron's 34 front pulley as Bandit already suggested, but that's the only thing. Other than that it's a drop in replacement, fits stock belt. A front pulley is a fair bit cheaper than a rear pulley. Front around $145+ vs rear $289+ and probably easier to fit (if you get the holding nut off). Not sure about the plastic chromed pulley guard if that needs to be adjusted up a bit when installing a rear pulley, might be enough space between it and belt though.
 

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geeze, I installed the Baron myself without a problem and I get plenty of low - mid - high speed torque. It may seem a little different at first, but that's what you wanted. The speedo error is totally corrected with the front Baron sprocket. And after you ride it for a while, you'll appreciate it more and won't notice any loss. I love to wind out the gears, 2nd= 60mph, 3rd=88mph, and it gets there fast! Just my .02..........
Good Luck
 

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(front vs rear pulley) Remember, adding or removing teeth on the front pulley makes larger ratio changes. and doing the same on the rear pulley does fractional changes in drive ratio's. I would think that getting a smaller rear pulley to almost equal the ratio change that front has done, would require a shorter belt. If the bike was "Chain Drive" Sprockets and chain length would be no problem. I would also think that the availability of various ratio's would be available. I do not think a smaller rear belt pulley (to almost equal the ratio change that a front pulley change would equal) is readily available. I would change over to chain drive in a heart beat if it was available for the 900. Before this year is out, I too will get the larger front pulley. I live in the inland empire (san Bernardino county) of southern calif and their is lots of open highways and freeways that this upgrade would be a blessing. Weekend speeds from "Berdoo" to "Vegas" average 75 to 85 mph < example. Yep , I am going to pull the trigger and over drive ( or gear the bike up to what it "Should Have Been") as soon as I can save up for the parts and tools :)
 

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olddoger- with a 34 tooth Front pulley you cannot hit 60 in 2nd gear its 52.77 mph
3rd gear its-73.29 mph.
I am looking to eliminate the strong vibration on highway speeds around 70 mph. what setup should I run to get rid of this. i had my bike 2 summers now and im at the point to sell it, if i cant fix this issue. Kawasaki of Bellevue said to change the Rear sprocket reduce the engine RPM. I have been on www.gearingcommander.com playing with gearing. so if i go -4 on rear it would put me at stock is 3420 rpm sitting 54.25 and with -4 tooth Rear 3420 rpm @62.22 mph. is this enough to eliminate the vibrations or need to go more?
also I cannot find many options as far as different sprockets. only 2 companies out there and not many options . from Barons only one option thats a front sprocket with 32 tooth and rear is -2, and thats it. were can i get a Rear -4.
 

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Vulcan900AD....you can tell exactly the vibration amount you want by just riding at the vibration point you can enjoy. The speedometer will still read the same (say 70 mph) but you will actually be travelling 70 mph with a front pulley + oversized tire. The speedometer will always read the same and the vibration will always be the same at that speed....the difference is the bike will actually be travelling what the speedo says. Stock gearing it starts vibrating at 70 mph but you are actually only going about 64 mph. Front pulley adds about 4.4 mph and rear pulley about 4.4 mph and 170/80/15 rear tire about 2.2 mph so you can ride 69 mph with no vibration and be travelling an actual 69 mph instead of 64 or whatever. If I was you I would run the front pulley and oversize 170/80/15 rear tire like I run...speedo is spot on and can cruise 70 all day long with no vibration. I cruise 75 a lot with just a little vibration and don't mind it at all.
 

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olddoger- with a 34 tooth Front pulley you cannot hit 60 in 2nd gear its 52.77 mph
3rd gear its-73.29 mph.
I am looking to eliminate the strong vibration on highway speeds around 70 mph. what setup should I run to get rid of this. i had my bike 2 summers now and im at the point to sell it, if i cant fix this issue. Kawasaki of Bellevue said to change the Rear sprocket reduce the engine RPM. I have been on www.gearingcommander.com playing with gearing. so if i go -4 on rear it would put me at stock is 3420 rpm sitting 54.25 and with -4 tooth Rear 3420 rpm @62.22 mph. is this enough to eliminate the vibrations or need to go more?
also I cannot find many options as far as different sprockets. only 2 companies out there and not many options . from Barons only one option thats a front sprocket with 32 tooth and rear is -2, and thats it. were can i get a Rear -4.
I ride my bike and shift at those speeds so I guess I'll make an attempt to video and post it soon. I hope I'm right. lol. TBC

Anyways the issues of searching to make that 900 vibration free is not going to happen due to the engine size and smallness of the bike. No matter what you do I don't think you'll get rid of the vibration. The 34 tooth definitely makes a difference for the value and that's when I stopped and therefore not spending money without gain.
 

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yes thank you, i am not looking for vibration free, just on long trips 100 miles + its really bad when cruising at 80+ my legs and ass gets numb. and I have a Corbin seat too. plus i would like little more top end. cant really go ver 100. speedo shows 100 and its pushing it.
 

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I ride my bike and shift at those speeds so I guess I'll make an attempt to video and post it soon. I hope I'm right. lol. TBC

Anyways the issues of searching to make that 900 vibration free is not going to happen due to the engine size and smallness of the bike. No matter what you do I don't think you'll get rid of the vibration. The 34 tooth definitely makes a difference for the value and that's when I stopped and therefore not spending money without gain.
Agreed,that vibration is always going to be around.
 

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This year I added an intake, pipes and, processor. I think it runs smother. Less vibration. I think the intake made the biggest difference. I have also considered doing the pulleys. I think I will just do the 170 or 200 tire when it is time for a new one and call it good. But I am not looking to run 100 mph. If I wanted to do that I would have bought a crotch rocket not a v twin cruiser.
 

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well around here traffic cruises around 75-85. so when i need to pass or want to pass i have go over 90 sometimes. and yes a rocket as well.
what kind of intake are you using? I have a KN replacement filter.
cheers,
 

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I ride my bike and shift at those speeds so I guess I'll make an attempt to video and post it soon. I hope I'm right. lol. TBC

Anyways the issues of searching to make that 900 vibration free is not going to happen due to the engine size and smallness of the bike. No matter what you do I don't think you'll get rid of the vibration. The 34 tooth definitely makes a difference for the value and that's when I stopped and therefore not spending money without gain.

Well here it is. Go to my( www.youtube.com/user/ bobrobinsonpsl ) and watch the video that I did this morning shifting at 40 miles per hour in first, 60 for second an 80 for Third.
 

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When running an engine with a single pin crankshaft, you will get vibration (nature of the beast) When I get up past 70 I get some vibration, but it is nothing like my Sportster (which vibrates from 2800 to around 3200 rpm). Comparing the vulcan to the H-D,,,,, the vulcan don't vibrate LOL H-D's have the nickname "Milwaukee Vibrator" . I bought the vulcan because it vibrates very slightly (which is not bad for a single pin cranked V twin) . :)
 

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I think a front pulley and a bigger rear tire Will help get you what your looking for but to what degree I don't know. They would lower your rpms at the same given speed.

I did the cobra swept intake, cobra processor and cobra slashdowns for pipes.
Then I had it on the dyno. I had just over 58 ft lbs torque and just over 57 hp at the wheel. Most stock bikes are at 52 ft lbs of torque and 45 hp at the wheel. Now dont get me wrong it still has a vibration. But I feel it is a smoother ride now. That stock intake is something to be desired for air flow.

 
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