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I am really tempted to swap out my front pulley for the baron custom one but as I lack the £75 service manual i do not know the correct torque i need for the pulley nut nor the correct tension the belt needs and do i need special tools for the belt?

2015 Vulcan 900 Custom
 

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Service manual has 94 ft/lb on the nut to secure the pulley. There are many theories on here (and other places) about the correct way to adjust your belt. No special tool needed for belt.

If it is running correctly now I would take a good picture of the side notches in relation to the axle tension adjuster marks. Also count threads on the axle adjusters on each side. This will get you close, but since you are replacing the pully the distance of the belt will be slightly different.

Do your homework, read on where the belt needs to sit on the back pulley and the tension you are trying to achieve.

There isn't an exact tension it needs to be, just within spec. Several have done the pulley swap, not too difficult.


Good Luck!
 

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so its basically just like a chain then, if so i will just go by how much it moves up and down before i start and check again when the pulley is on
 

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That is a way of doing it. One of the main details that keeps being stated is, while looking at rear of the bike, make sure the belt is riding close to the left side of the pulley guide wall, but not touching.
 

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In addition I recommend the following.
a) purchase a new retaining washer to replace the one you need to take off. These are NOT designed to be reused.
b) get some anti fretting compound and apply it to the splines and drive pulley groves. There is some history of the drive pulley working itself lose and wearing resulting in slop/play between the drive pulley and drive output shaft.Chelsea Anti Fret Compound | eBay
c) apply loctite to the threaded end of the output shaft (not the pulley or spline) just the end of the shaft where the retainer washer and nut attach. this will help prevent the nut from working lose. You will need to heat it up to 200C if you ever need to remove the locking nut in the future.

d) perhaps not needed but I also suggest buying the tool for setting the belt tension at 10 lbs pressure. In any event I run my belt with 7-8mm movement at 10 lbs pressure. This is much loser that kawi spec but in line with other bike mfgs using belt drive. The kawi spec is too tight in my opinion.

WB
 

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Get on ebay and pay the $10 for a digital download or a cd with the FSM manual on it. All the info you will ever need. You will be happy you did. Then get a paper copy down the road when you can afford it. And use the search function here and you will also find all the info you need, and probably some you don't (LOL) on doing this pulley change. I believe the rear axle nut is 27mm? Belt tension at 10lbs of force should be anywhere from 4-9mm slack. All depends on who you listen to. Spec is 4mm I believe and other opinions (mine included) say that is way too tight from factory and adjust it to closer to HD specs about 8mm slack. You'll need a belt tension gauge. Amazon has em for about $10.
 

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Get on ebay and pay the $10 for a digital download or a cd with the FSM manual on it. All the info you will ever need. You will be happy you did. Then get a paper copy down the road when you can afford it. And use the search function here and you will also find all the info you need, and probably some you don't (LOL) on doing this pulley change. I believe the rear axle nut is 27mm? Belt tension at 10lbs of force should be anywhere from 4-9mm slack. All depends on who you listen to. Spec is 4mm I believe and other opinions (mine included) say that is way too tight from factory and adjust it to closer to HD specs about 8mm slack. You'll need a belt tension gauge. Amazon has em for about $10.
+1 on the pdf manual. I even have a copy of it on my phone, has come in handy a few times when on the road.
 

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Read Post #5 from Wild Bill about 100 times. You can do a world of damage to the output shaft of the tranny if you mess this up.
 

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That is a way of doing it. One of the main details that keeps being stated is, while looking at rear of the bike, make sure the belt is riding close to the left side of the pulley guide wall, but not touching.
How exactly would one do that without changing the rear wheel alignment?
 

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I believe the front pulley is a little larger so the back tire will come forward a little. I had both replaced at a local shop. I was getting my tires changed so they did both cheap. Very glad I did both.
 

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