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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Still chasin' the vibe!

When I put the balancer shaft back in and went to time it, the 2 marks didnt line up exactly- like about 1/3 of a tooth out. If I went to either side of the mark it was way off so I figured it must be correct coz it was as close as I could get it.

Is it possible that I needed to turn the engine over 180 degrees for them to line up?

If that was the case, would the balancer shaft being out only that much cause a small vibe or a HUGE one?
 

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Perhaps I can offer a little help as I just put one of these 1500E engines together yesterday. The timing marks for the counter balance will not align perfectly, or on the engines I have seen they do not. Usually about a 16th" off. The same is also true with the cam gears. I have never had one that both marks were even with the top edge of the cylinder head as shown in the manual. But as you stated if you turn it a tooth either way it is more out of alignment. My question is, did you inspect the rubber balancer inserts for deterioration, and are you sure you have the two balancer halves assembled correctly, per the pictorial in the service manual? I had to replace the balancer assembly on the engine I just rebuilt. Two of the rubber balancers had come apart and the balancer bushing had worn a groove on one side.
My main reason for the teardown was a clunking in 3rd gear only. Turns out 3 teeth were missing from the gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes the dampers were replaced. I didnt replace the bushing though. The vibe started off small and got to where it is over a few thousand km's. Its def an engine issue as when Im riding at highway speed and kill the motor its exactly the same and it is also prominent even when at idle. I have a thread somewhere about it but thought i would see if it may be the balance shaft or weights as everything else has been done. I followed the manual when putting the weights together but the vibe was there before i pulled it down anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I took off the plug on the left hand timing cover and have been turning the engine over by hand (with spark plugs out and ign off) to determine at what point it was vibrating. As it goes past the TDC for each cylinder it then just turns on its own (about 1/2 turn) until the next piston stops the inertia. No doubt the crank weight is doing it but should it?

Could that be a problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A bit more info.
I hooked up my cordless drill to the socket on the alternator bolt and turn the engine over with the drill going in reverse for correct rotation.

With the speed on low I can feel the "pulse" through the drill starting at even such low revs. Its like theres a tight spot on the cycle of the crank and then it gets loose.

Bent crank?
 

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Not much if any chance of a bent crankshaft. The resistance you are feeling when you turn the crankshaft is the compression of the valve springs, and after passing the crown on the cam lobe the valve springs will continue to turn the engine to their relief position.

Since the engine is back together, I can only assume you inspected all bearings, and bushings for wear. (crankshaft mains, rod bearings, counter balance bearings, transmission bearings) As I previously stated I had an engine down last week for a broken 3rd gear and on inspection found a worn countershaft and it's bushing.

I can also only assume that you correctly installed the cams and retimed the engine to specs. How was the condition of your valve train?

If the vibration is still the same as before your teardown, and you did not find an internal problem, then the problem may be in the ignition & fuel. Is the engine currently running? Have any modifications been made to the fuel and exhaust? What is the condition of the spark plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes you are correct to assume that all bearings were checked. I didnt replace the counter shaft bushing though.
Bike runs well and I recently had it dynotuned. Plus look very good as well. No ign probs as it does it when the ign is off.
I dont think it would be a bent crank either but thought I would put it out there.
Im really at a loss as to what it could be.It ruins my rides and it sends the passengers foot to sleep from the vibes thru the boards. Its been like it since a couple of thousand k after I got it. It started off small and has reached this level but doesnt seem to be getting any worse. Ive spent money on mounts, bearings, gudgeons, HLA's, cam chains, re-seated valves, honed bores, new damper rubbers- you name its been done.
I have taken it to experts who say it's normal-believe me it aint, they just dont want to have to deal with it.
I sent an email to the Vulcan club over here (WA) to see if I could meet up with their ride and maybe their guys could take it for a ride and give an opinion- NO RESPONSE.

Im soooooooo over it.
Everyone says just ride it until breaks. Knowing that something is wrong and will end costing a lot more is really doing my OCD in!

rant rant rant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep.
Running down road pull clutch in it will vibrate down to and at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, pulling in clutch with engine off it just coasts with no vibe. As I said earlier Im sure its a mechanical engine issue. What else could it be?
Let me add that I have also swapped out the heads for ones with less mileage and it made no difference. The originals had score marks in the cam bearings, cams were ok.

When cruising along with neither negative or positive throttle I can hear a knock which goes away when decel or accel. To me this suggests a gudgeon pin(not sure on that), though they are new.

Dunno if its part of the prob or a separate one.
 

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OK, so bike sitting still, in neutral and you increase rpms engine vibrates, correct. If this is the case and the vibration began before you tore the engine down and is still present after reassembly, I would be looking at the ignition system to insure both cylinders are firing.
Try disconnecting the rear cylinder spark plugs, start the engine and see if it makes any difference, if not reverse and disconnect the front. If you find that disconnecting one of the cylinders makes no difference in the way engine runs, look for a weak or no spark condition. If there is no spark we can trouble shoot that .
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for your help so far guys.
After putting the engine back together and seeing it didnt change anything I investigated the electronics side of things. Tested the coils, got a Colourtune spark plug tuner, checked the timing which seemed a tiny bit off but it cant be moved anyway.
Dyno showed 61.46 hp and 87.24 torque. Colortune showed all plugs firing. With engine running and pull off a plug I can hear the difference.
Vibration is through entire rev range but at a certain point it "almost" goes away. So im thinking it hits a harmonic point and balancing out a bit. Its at 65kph in 4th and 88kph in 5th if that helps.
 

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What ever it is it is not affecting your engine performance. It seems to be at it's peak. I'm kind of just throwing ideas out now as it seems you have already checked everything. I would suggest you check your engine mounts, (the rubber bushings) to ensure there is not a direct metal to metal contact. Sorry, but I am at a loss for any other suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What ever it is it is not affecting your engine performance. It seems to be at it's peak. I'm kind of just throwing ideas out now as it seems you have already checked everything. I would suggest you check your engine mounts, (the rubber bushings) to ensure there is not a direct metal to metal contact. Sorry, but I am at a loss for any other suggestions.
Yeh me too mate. It isnt easy though trying to diagnose something like this over the net.
The engine mounts are new and I have checked all over the bike for touch points.

I dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
1. How many miles on it?
2. How long have you owned?
3. Has the vibration issue been present since you have owned or did it just show up one day?
Got the bike in June 2012 with 29,000km's and now has 56,000 on it. It had sat around quite a bit. I had to replace all the cooling system hoses fairly soon.
I remember when I got it- it was so smooth it was like riding in a vat of cream!

Vibe started out very small/fine about 2,000 kms after I got it and progressively got worse over a few thousand kms.
 

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When you say ignition timing was a tiny bit off, what did you mean by that?
Any problems with detonation or backfiring?
What do the plugs look like?
Is the vibration better/worse hot/cold engine?
Does it visibly shake in the mounts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah I had a video in a thread somewhere of the timing. It doesnt line up with the mark by what looks to be about 5 or 6mm.
No backfiring or pinging and plugs look spot on.
Vibration feels same hot or cold but engine def noisier when hot. Vibe is not always same strength either. Sometimes its really bad, other times its just bad. Sometimes that change will happen when I stop somewhere for a couple of minutes and then when it starts it may be worse or better- but its ALWAYS there. Go figure.
Can only just see it shaking in the mounts.
 
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