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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so it looks like my stator is gone again. With just over 70k miles my battery died once again, so I bought a new one. But testing my charging system I found out I'm not getting the voltage I should back at the battery. It wont reach 14 V at 3000 Rpms. So I did the voltage check at the stator plug and got 20 ac volts at idle (I think is too low) and 64 ac volts at 3000 Rpms. Also checked for continuity between the plug and the negative battery terminal and got a "1" on my meter. Now, dont judge me, this is the part where my knowledge reaches a stand point. "1" is what I get when my meter probes are not touching and "0" when they touch. So, my Stator is not grounded, Right? Next I'll be testing my Reg. and posting results.
Sfair, Sojourner, Roman and other forum members helped me in the past with this and other issues, I would really appreciate their input in this matter.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Did you do the regulator/rectifier tests outlined in the sticky? Is the battery holding a charge?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm doing the reg test as soon as I get home today. As far as the battery, it was reading 12.8v when I started, after running the bike for a few minutes for stator voltage check , went down to 12.2v.
I assume the stator is not charging the battery at this point and needs to be replaced.
Is 20 ac volts at idle within specs for the stator output? At 3000 rpm it reached 64 ac volts.
Thanks for your help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here are my regulator readings...
Red lead on bk.
Bk-w1- 444
Bk-w2- 451
Bk-w3- 448
Swaping leads gave me a "1" across.
"1" being infinity??
Black lead on R.
R-w1-455
R-w2-446
R-w3-439
Swaping leads gave me "1" across.

To me looks like the reg. is fine. Can somebody with more knowledge confirm this?
Thanks again!!
 

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From the R/R test sticky:
"If your rectifier is working properly, you are looking for low resistance in one direction, and infinite resistance in the opposite direction."

The readings on your regulator are basically the same in both directions, which according to the sticky test indicates a bad regulator.
 

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Your reg/rect. looks OK, so far.

Could you do this?

1. Take voltage reading across battery.
2. Turn on key and take another reading.
3. Start engine and take another reading.
4. Rev engine to fast idle and take another reading.

Post back with 4 readings.
 

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Your reg/rect. looks OK, so far.
.
Apparently I don't understand the R/R test. According to the sticky post the R/B and B/R readings should be different, and with my R/R they were. And so far according to my onboard voltmeter my charging system now is working properly. ????
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This are the readings...
Battery key off. 12.8
Key on. 12.4
High rpm 14.3
Idle. 12.9

This looks fine to me, but this are different that the readings I got the first time. And no stator noise this time...
Also, I have one of those rpm readers that you wrap around the coil cable, and was reading 1400 rpms when idling... If I turn the know to read 1000 rpms then my volts at bat. are too low. Any thoughts?
And I still dont know if 20 ac volts output at idle is enough for charging the bat..
Thanks again.!!
 

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1. 900's do not usually charge at idle.
2. Your voltages look ok.
3. For step 4 test, just high idle, not high revs.
4. If you find voltages and noise is intermittent, then I would suspect the stator as it can fail on and off to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, first of all, sorry for the delay...
Sfair, high idle is the same reading as high rpms, 14.3 v.
After a few more tests, everything seems back to normal. So I'll put everything together and keep on riding!!!

Thanks so much again for all the help!!
 

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Apparently I don't understand the R/R test. According to the sticky post the R/B and B/R readings should be different, and with my R/R they were. And so far according to my onboard voltmeter my charging system now is working properly. ????
Just curious...what type? digital, LED?

I'd suggest to check your stator output connector for any heat damage, terminal corrosion, melting, etc. Also associated wires for crusty, brittle, heat damaged insulation. I'm all too familiar as the Honda VFR is known for its charging system "issues", my own afflicted as well. Many folks hardwire...eliminating the problematic connector entirely, switching over to Mosfet r/r's also offers system reliability.
 
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