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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I've been a magnet lately for screws and nails. My rear tire again made again made friends with a nail on a practically new tube. I can't keep going back to the dealer paying $70 bucks a pop to get this thing fixed. I'm going to invest in a good lift Jack and tire bead breaker. Learn how to fix or replace the tube myself. My question being on removing the rear wheel are there any special tools I need to adjust the belt once I put it back on or maybe other tools I may need for the job? Any techniques or warnings about pulling off the rear wheel and putting it back on?

Also My 900 LT sometimes pops when I blip the throttle when gearing down or sitting at idle. Is this normal?
Thanks for any info you may have.

Thanks
 

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Well I've been a magnet lately for screws and nails. My rear tire again made again made friends with a nail on a practically new tube. I can't keep going back to the dealer paying $70 bucks a pop to get this thing fixed. I'm going to invest in a good lift Jack and tire bead breaker. Learn how to fix or replace the tube myself. My question being on removing the rear wheel are there any special tools I need to adjust the belt once I put it back on or maybe other tools I may need for the job? Any techniques or warnings about pulling off the rear wheel and putting it back on?
I see where that can get expensive. Even if you don't get a bead breaker, you can save money just by removing the wheel yourself. I have done that, and have a lift (harbor freight) that does the job well. I also use a floor jack to lift the wheel back into place (saves fighting the weight lifting it) and installing the axel. I did purchase (Lowes) a box wrench to remove the castle nut (to avoid removing the exhaust), and a belt tension gauge to measure the force (10lbs) when adjusting belt deflection.

Another thing I have added (as I have tubes as well) it tire sealant from Ride-On Tire protection. A bit pricey, but if it works well worth it to get home and maybe some peace of mind. Plus it will balance the wheel.
 

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I see where that can get expensive. Even if you don't get a bead breaker, you can save money just by removing the wheel yourself. I have done that, and have a lift (harbor freight) that does the job well. I also use a floor jack to lift the wheel back into place (saves fighting the weight lifting it) and installing the axel. I did purchase (Lowes) a box wrench to remove the castle nut (to avoid removing the exhaust), and a belt tension gauge to measure the force (10lbs) when adjusting belt deflection.

Another thing I have added (as I have tubes as well) it tire sealant from Ride-On Tire protection. A bit pricey, but if it works well worth it to get home and maybe some peace of mind. Plus it will balance the wheel.
+1 on the tire changes. I have been doing my own tires for a while now. Now that I have a V2K with solid wheels I don't have to worry about tubes (and i am thankful for that too). I am too cheap to by good tools so I actually dig hole in my gravels under my car port and slide a regular floor jack under it with 2x to cross the frame rails. Then gradually block up each side with wood blocks. Not the best but it gets the job done. As for the tire and rim I have used 3 tire irons several time to change tires. Just use some cut up oil bottles, OJ bottles, Milk Jugs, or what ever ya got and use them to protect your rim and use plenty of rubber lube and you got it made.
 

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backfire

The blipping is not normal. You got stock air & exhaust?
The main question seemed to be able the popping when he blips. Mine does not pop at idle, but is does have a minor backfire when downshifting or just letting off the throttle and getting significant engine slowing. My brother says it is normal. We aren't talking about a loud backfire, just a popping when blipping.
 

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The main question seemed to be able the popping when he blips. Mine does not pop at idle, but is does have a minor backfire when downshifting or just letting off the throttle and getting significant engine slowing. My brother says it is normal. We aren't talking about a loud backfire, just a popping when blipping.
Is the popping through the intake or exhaust? Marble mod will help. These bikes run extremely lean from the factory mine would pop through the intake before I got the power commander.
 

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With all the mods (intake, processor, exhaust, marble) I have done mine still pops (very little) when decel, and I have the throttle slightly opened. If I close the throttle down completely it does not pop. Thinking minimal air is not being introduced to cause the popping. My Honda Shadow did the same.
 

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Well I've been a magnet lately for screws and nails. My rear tire again made again made friends with a nail on a practically new tube. I can't keep going back to the dealer paying $70 bucks a pop to get this thing fixed. I'm going to invest in a good lift Jack and tire bead breaker. Learn how to fix or replace the tube myself. My question being on removing the rear wheel are there any special tools I need to adjust the belt once I put it back on or maybe other tools I may need for the job? Any techniques or warnings about pulling off the rear wheel and putting it back on?

Also My 900 LT sometimes pops when I blip the throttle when gearing down or sitting at idle. Is this normal?
Thanks for any info you may have.

Thanks
70 bucks.....wao......down here is 3 bucks a tire
 
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