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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
When I got home yesterday, I realized my factory auxiliary driving lights were out, and found the 20 amp fuse blown. Replaced it and verified they were operating again.

When I arrived at work this morning, I found they were out again. I have not yet verified that the fuse is indeed blown, but suspect that will be the case.

When I get home this evening, I will likely trouble shoot, but was wondering if any other Voyager owners have also experienced the same issue, and if so, were you able to determine the fault?

I am aware of the ignition switch wiring recall, however, my VIN doesn't return any information on Kawi's site. I am wondering if there may be a chafed wire beneath the tank, or elsewhere, for that matter.
The bike has just over 60,000 miles, so I wouldn't be surprised to find a bare wire somewhere. The only customization I am aware of is when I added a Battery Tender extension, and I have replaced the turn signal relay with a solid-state version, to run LED signal bulbs. Haven't seen any other "stray" wiring, thankfully!

Thanks for the help!
Ron
 

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Mine blew out twice a couple years ago. Found the problem was a USB adaptor I had plugged in had came apart and the tip of it was in the socket. After removing the loose parts of it, have not blown a fuse since. They are on the same fuse I guess. This is the factory socket on the right side of dash.
 

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It sounds weird for me a 20A fuse. According to the catalog it uses 35W bulbs, so 70W/12V = 5.8A. With a 10A fuse should be more than enough. You probably have a bare wire. Also I don't think the switch can manage that current, they are generally rated for 10A.
What I recommend is if you remove the fairing to check the bulbs and wiring, replace them with LEDs. I did in mine and it is incredible the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had a Battery Tender to USB charger adapter plugged in briefly, but the lights were out before that, and it wasn't plugged in after fuse replacement. My Battery Tender extension is wired direct to the battery, though fused in-line.

True, the lamps shouldn't draw much current. If the switch/circuit is wired the way I would, the switch should only power a relay, and the relay a heavier load.

I did add one ram-style (auto) horn, but only extended the wiring from the original horn to the new one, and left the wimpy sounding biscuit horn in place. Sounds odd, but much more attention grabbing now, and not an excessive load, nor should it be on the same circuit.

I would have thought with the lights being factory equipped, the circuit would have been specific to them, and not lumped in with the "Accessory" circuit. Maybe one of the additional "accessory" wiring connections near the seat or dash has been rubbing the frame.

Looking at trading tomorrow, and would like to have it repaired tonight. Always an opportunity to learn something new, my dad would say. Especially if it weren't his rig, lol!

Thanks for the leads! Ride Safe!
 

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It sounds weird for me a 20A fuse. According to the catalog it uses 35W bulbs, so 70W/12V = 5.8A. With a 10A fuse should be more than enough. You probably have a bare wire. Also I don't think the switch can manage that current, they are generally rated for 10A.
What I recommend is if you remove the fairing to check the bulbs and wiring, replace them with LEDs. I did in mine and it is incredible the difference.
The fog lights are on the accessory circuit which has a 20A fuse.
 

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The fog lights are on the accessory circuit with the accessory socket on the right lower side of the fairing and the accessory quick connects by the radio in the fairing, and the ones under the seat. The brown/blue wires should be the positives for everything on this circuit. With the power off (preferably with the battery disconnected) check those wires for continuity to ground.
 
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