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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, was wondering if there was anyway to pull some extra power out of the 500, like if I could add even 5 more HP that would be fantastic (my bike is a 2004)

Also, was wondering if anyone knows some decent pipes for it, I don’t think the bike sounds bad but I’d like to hear it at higher speeds lol


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Punch the baffles and you'll be able to hear it better.

You can change the intake, rejet the carbs and add free flowing exhaust for a little boost.

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Change intake meaning air intake correct?

I was already planning on getting a k&n air filter but do I need to specifically get a hi-flow filter? I was looking on jpcycles (I think may have been a different site) at different jets but they were almost all different sizes and lengths so I didn’t know which one to get. One site had a stage 1 and stage 3 kit?

Also what does free flowing exhaust mean? I’m sorry for the barrage of questions D:


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Change intake meaning air intake correct?

I was already planning on getting a k&n air filter but do I need to specifically get a hi-flow filter? I was looking on jpcycles (I think may have been a different site) at different jets but they were almost all different sizes and lengths so I didn’t know which one to get. One site had a stage 1 and stage 3 kit?

Also what does free flowing exhaust mean? I’m sorry for the barrage of questions D:


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No problem.

Yes, change intake meaning air intake.

I have no idea, I know you can do it, I have never done it, and would be the wrong person to give you advice there.

Free flowing meaning not restricted, all opened.

Also, I think biker bill actually used some parts from the Ninja ex like camshaft and pistons once.

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You're talking about a "barely 500cc" engine with a claimed 50 hp. Adding 5 hp -- 10% -- would be rather unlikely, almost certainly requiring major alterations to the engine. HPWizard (Horsepower calculator) says the engine's about maxed out at 50 hp @8000 rpm, given the bore and stroke and assuming more or less standard values for all sorts of parameters. Could it be done? Yeah, probably. How much money ya got? Chances are this is going to be a whole lot more expensive than drilling a few holes in the exhaust and bolting on an intake.

As I recall, the 500 already has a resonant air box on the intake -- that means it is tuned so that airflow resistance is near zero right at the natural dip in the halfway-to-redline rev range. There's really not much more you can do to the intakes to improve them, but if you yank the airbox and go with some snazzy chrome bolt-ons your intake will be noisier and you'll feel like it's more powerful. (Remember when we clothes-pinned some playing cards so they'd flap off our bicycle spokes and we felt like we were flying?) Here's the actual science of the air movement if you're interested: https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Airboxes.html

It's basically the same at the other end with the pipes. If you make the pipes louder, it will FEEL faster, but unless you happen to be an aerodynamic engineer, you're at pretty substantial risk of actually reducing performance, no matter how it feels. Technically, depending on where you are, it's probably flat-out illegal to modify the exhaust system, but enforcement varies wildly around the US and around the world.

Meanwhile, even if you magically "free up the flow" at the front and back, you still have the same size intake and exhaust ports on the cylinders being controlled by the same valve timing. You've basically hooked up a fire hose to a garden hose. Which is why real hot rodding starts with the heads and cams, then optimizes the front and back.

You sure you even want more horsepower? Horsepower relates mostly to top speed, and it's hard to believe you're often in a situation where you're running out of top speed on that bike. Often what people really want is more torque, for that "accelerate off the line" feeling. That's pretty easy -- change the sprocket ratio to a lower one. You'll be shifting more often, you'll give up some top end speed, and you'll be buying more fuel, but you'll get a bit more rapid acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You're talking about a "barely 500cc" engine with a claimed 50 hp. Adding 5 hp -- 10% -- would be rather unlikely, almost certainly requiring major alterations to the engine. HPWizard (Horsepower calculator) says the engine's about maxed out at 50 hp @8000 rpm, given the bore and stroke and assuming more or less standard values for all sorts of parameters. Could it be done? Yeah, probably. How much money ya got? Chances are this is going to be a whole lot more expensive than drilling a few holes in the exhaust and bolting on an intake.



As I recall, the 500 already has a resonant air box on the intake -- that means it is tuned so that airflow resistance is near zero right at the natural dip in the halfway-to-redline rev range. There's really not much more you can do to the intakes to improve them, but if you yank the airbox and go with some snazzy chrome bolt-ons your intake will be noisier and you'll feel like it's more powerful. (Remember when we clothes-pinned some playing cards so they'd flap off our bicycle spokes and we felt like we were flying?) Here's the actual science of the air movement if you're interested: https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Airboxes.html



It's basically the same at the other end with the pipes. If you make the pipes louder, it will FEEL faster, but unless you happen to be an aerodynamic engineer, you're at pretty substantial risk of actually reducing performance, no matter how it feels. Technically, depending on where you are, it's probably flat-out illegal to modify the exhaust system, but enforcement varies wildly around the US and around the world.



Meanwhile, even if you magically "free up the flow" at the front and back, you still have the same size intake and exhaust ports on the cylinders being controlled by the same valve timing. You've basically hooked up a fire hose to a garden hose. Which is why real hot rodding starts with the heads and cams, then optimizes the front and back.



You sure you even want more horsepower? Horsepower relates mostly to top speed, and it's hard to believe you're often in a situation where you're running out of top speed on that bike. Often what people really want is more torque, for that "accelerate off the line" feeling. That's pretty easy -- change the sprocket ratio to a lower one. You'll be shifting more often, you'll give up some top end speed, and you'll be buying more fuel, but you'll get a bit more rapid acceleration.


I’ll have to check that link but the only horsepower results I’ve found on my bike said 39hp, and you do bring up a good point of it probably wouldn’t be worth it financially, especially as this is a learner bike for me


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by opening exhaust (drilling holes, debaffling, replacing it with some slip on's) you'll infact loose power since the stock exhaust system gives this bike better low end performance. If you want to add power to it, use camshafts from Ninja 500, put K&N air fitler and rejet carbs. Don't know how much HP you'll gain with Ninja 500 cams. You can also change chain sprockets with 17t front and 43 back if i'm not mistaken, this should lower your riding RPM range for about 500RPMs.
Dynojet kit can be useful too but I never read about pros and cons, don't know anything about it. There aren't too much to choose for aftermarket pipes, If you want loud as f*ck bike, try out Emgo turnout pipes. These pipes give amazing sound but bike will be very loud, possibly causing trouble with neighbours :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
by opening exhaust (drilling holes, debaffling, replacing it with some slip on's) you'll infact loose power since the stock exhaust system gives this bike better low end performance. If you want to add power to it, use camshafts from Ninja 500, put K&N air fitler and rejet carbs. Don't know how much HP you'll gain with Ninja 500 cams. You can also change chain sprockets with 17t front and 43 back if i'm not mistaken, this should lower your riding RPM range for about 500RPMs.
Dynojet kit can be useful too but I never read about pros and cons, don't know anything about it. There aren't too much to choose for aftermarket pipes, If you want loud as f*ck bike, try out Emgo turnout pipes. These pipes give amazing sound but bike will be very loud, possibly causing trouble with neighbours :D


Thanks for the info! And I don’t want like super loud, just more so then stock. Do you know how much speed on the top end I would lose with the sprocket change?


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Thanks for the info! And I don’t want like super loud, just more so then stock. Do you know how much speed on the top end I would lose with the sprocket change?


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According to Gearing Commander if you just change the front from a 16 to a 15 top speed would drop from 100 to 93.8 and rpm at 60 mph in top gear would increase from 4800 to about 5100.
 

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According to Gearing Commander if you just change the front from a 16 to a 15 top speed would drop from 100 to 93.8 and rpm at 60 mph in top gear would increase from 4800 to about 5100.


So then a 16 tooth in the front and stock in back?


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The gear commander link was just blank, I’m gonna have to figure out how to use that though I didn’t know that was a thing that existed


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At the top you just select make, model and year and it fills in stock gearing. Then you can try different combinations and see what changes.

I just looked at the gear chart again and it is in kilometers per hour not miles.
 

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Don't put 15T, it will make your bike run worse by lifting RPMs so you end in higher RPMs to get same speed as with 16T, and this bike runs better at low RPMs. Try 17T front and leave back at 42 as many of us here did, this will give you smoother ride and youll get same speed but you'll be about 500RPMs lower than with 16T. BTW with 17/42 fuel economy should increase, this is proven by few people here... I hope I wrote everything correct since English is not my native language.
 

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Don't put 15T, it will make your bike run worse by lifting RPMs so you end in higher RPMs to get same speed as with 16T, and this bike runs better at low RPMs. Try 17T front and leave back at 42 as many of us here did, this will give you smoother ride and youll get same speed but you'll be about 500RPMs lower than with 16T. BTW with 17/42 fuel economy should increase, this is proven by few people here... I hope I wrote everything correct since English is not my native language.


You did perfect and thanks for the advice I just want to make this bike as fun as possible without breaking the bank


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