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Discussion Starter #1
Any tips/secrets/trouble on replacing the clutch cable on a 900 Custom?

...other than getting to the right side lower connection point which is basically inpossible to see/reach due in part to my exhaust... :rolleyes:

Not really looking forward to this, but the cable should arrive tonight and I just want to be expecting any hurdles I may encounter.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm refusing to remove the exhaust, so this may take some creativity... I will likely get into this over the weekend.
 

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why don't you want to remove the exhaust?
it only takes about 5 minutes to remove and it will save you hours of work trying to do it with the exhaust on
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No replacement crush washers on hand and don't feel like waiting to order them.

Plus I built the poor-man's jack so I think I can get to what I need, may just take some patience.
 

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so far i removed my exhaust twice, first time to paint it, second time to change my clutch cable and i kept the same crush washer, i left them in the motor, so the exhaust going back in already fit to the spot and i didn't have any problems

but it's up to you
 

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The clutch cable can be replaced on that bike without removing the exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^^^ Guys, it really was pretty simple.

All I needed was a 12mm wrench for the jamb nuts and a 10mm socket for the bolt on the clutch lever. Took all of 15 minutes to change. Sure, I laid on my back in my garage for 10 of those minutes fighting the little clutch arm which retains the cable end, under the right side of the bike, but it really wasn't tough at all.

Just for future reference if anyone uses the search function and finds this thread.... Don't bother removing your exhaust, it's not bad at all.
 

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My tip: when you buy the replacement cable, buy 2 and put one under your seat - you'll be glad you did (one night while coming home from the lake when it's cold).
 

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How did u get that little end out of the little clutch arm??
When I did my Custom (I think the classic is set up differently) last fall, I used plastic auto ramp under the left side. Put the side stand up and leaned the bike over onto the ramp (point into the bike) and adjusted the ramp until I had her just before the point of no return.
That exposed the bottom of the bike enough that pair of needle nose plies made it easy to remove and replace. But you have to disconnect from the handle bars first to get the slack you need. After it's on, don't forget to make sure the rubber boot is on properly. If that's not seated you'll get water in the cable and you'll be replacing it soon.
 

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I didn't have any trouble on my custom and never removed the exhaust. It's a tad tricky, but all I ever did was get as much slack in the adjustment as possible and pull the top end first to remove it. Drop the back adjustment nut from the cable housing and then work the whole thing around the back side to release the ball. Install was reverse of removal, but pay attention to the cable routing. Doing it wrong tightens things up and that's a bad way to be in a turn. I've done a clutch cable five times now, and it's cake, if you're patient and think your way through it.
 

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I'm curious as to why the clutch cables in this thread have had to be replaced. In 50+ years of riding I've never had to replace a clutch cable and none has even begun to fray. (Touch wood, as the saying has it!) I keep them oiled. using engine oil.
 

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I'm curious as to why the clutch cables in this thread have had to be replaced. In 50+ years of riding I've never had to replace a clutch cable and none has even begun to fray. (Touch wood, as the saying has it!) I keep them oiled. using engine oil.
YES , you better knock on wood. On the old Sportsters you had to take off the primary cover , which of course was full of oil. and had 3 loose ball bearings in the clutch ramp. :devil2:
 

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First thing I do when I buy a new or new to me bike is to buy a new clutch cable and put it under the seat. That's the only way to ensure you never break one. :)

PS: I've broke plenty of cables - clutch, throttle, brake - over the years. Last time I broke a clutch cable the summer before last on an older Honda. The lead (or what ever it's made of) cable barrel at the lever end basically dissolved leaving nothing but a ball of cable where the barrel used to be.
 

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I'm curious as to why the clutch cables in this thread have had to be replaced. In 50+ years of riding I've never had to replace a clutch cable and none has even begun to fray. (Touch wood, as the saying has it!) I keep them oiled. using engine oil.
Turns out I had the wrong cable. The custom and classic are different, and I could only find the classic in a +10. Custom only went up to +8... So I had to get a custom cable. I don't know what was wrong with the first one, but it broke at the lever just the same. The other two broke at the actuator.
 

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i'm putting Classic bars on my Custom. I figure i may have to get a longer cable. I thought that a Classic cable would work. Am I wrong?.... Doesn't look like i was getting an answer , but i don't think i need a longer cable after all. Not the most active forum. Maybe the idea of a forum is outdated with face book groups.
 

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I'm curious as to why the clutch cables in this thread have had to be replaced. In 50+ years of riding I've never had to replace a clutch cable and none has even begun to fray. (Touch wood, as the saying has it!) I keep them oiled. using engine oil.
I've only broken one clutch cable over the years. That was on a 30 yr old GS750. I managed to drive it home, but what a nightmare. When I sold my 900 Custom to my son with 45K on the odometer, I figured I'd spend $30 and put new one on. I still have the original as a back up.
 

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It can be installed without removing anything. As I recall I turned the arm/link facing backwards -where the cable attaches under the engine. I might be wrong on that, but I recall it took more than 5min to figure it out and did NOT remove the exhaust.
@Hot Cruiser
I think I damaged mine at some point trying to refit the clutch cable after a cleanup by using some pliers in order to pull on it -as I didn't feel like touching the adjustment nuts... the next time I was cleaning it I noticed a few strands sticking out so I replaced it.
I experienced a broken one on a Victory with less than 10k miles. As I recall that was close to $100.
Some cables have a weak point as a defect I guess.
 
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